论文部分内容阅读
In this paper, a systematic discussion based on the theory proposed in the preceding paper is given for such breaking characteristics on sloping beaches as breaking depths and breaker heights. Through introducing two empirical constants and considering the complicatedness of the subject studied, the final results are in good agreement with observations. Further experimental verification and theoretical study are necessary.
In this paper, a systematic discussion based on the theory proposed in the preceding paper is given a review. in good agreement with observations. Further experimental verification and theoretical study are necessary.