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本文所用资料是由压力式测波仪测得,还选了海上四个站二个大风过程的资料,共择取80余段实测连续资料作统计分析。根据实测资料求得本海区浅水因子 H~*为0.10一0.20。在确定波要素分布函数时,假定其分布符合于 Weibull 曲线簇分布。即 F(P)=exp[-A(P)B]于本海区,从实测的波高资料知,拟合的 A、B 值随深度变化的范围都不大,故确定本海区坡高分布函数时可不考虑参量 H~*的变化,文中取 A、B 平均值。对波高的各阶原点距和中心距作了简单地讨论。也对波浪周期的分布作了讨论。最后,利用波高的分布函数讨论了①各种保证率波高间的关系;②部分大波的平均波高与平均波高间的关系。海浪是海洋动力学的重要组成部分,它对正确估算泥沙的搬运、合理开发和利用海洋资源、实施海洋环境保护等方面,均具有十分现实的意义。又,海浪本身是一种受制于多因素的相当复杂的自然现象,前人关于它的研究于本文所论海区是否适用?均有加以讨论的必要.
The data used in this paper is measured by pressure wave-measuring instrument, and the data of two gale processes at four stations in the sea are selected. A total of 80 continuous measured data are selected for statistical analysis. According to the measured data, the shallow water factor H ~ * in the sea area is 0.10 to 0.20. In determining the wave function of the distribution of elements, it is assumed that its distribution is in line with Weibull curve cluster distribution. That is, F (P) = exp [-A (P) B] In this sea area, from the measured wave height data, the fitting range of A and B values with depth is not large, Can not consider the parameters H ~ * changes, the text take A, B average. A brief discussion is made on the original pitch and center distance of wave height. The distribution of wave cycles is also discussed. Finally, the distribution function of wave height is used to discuss ① the relationship between wave rates of various guarantee rates; and ② the relationship between average wave height and average wave height of some large waves. Waves are an important part of ocean dynamics. They have very realistic meanings in correctly estimating sediment handling, rational development and utilization of marine resources, and implementation of marine environmental protection. In addition, the waves themselves are rather complicated natural phenomena subject to many factors. Whether the previous studies about them are applicable in the sea area discussed in this paper is necessary for discussion.