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海波是从静止状态由风或其它原因弄乱了的海水质点,再因重力等;表面张力的作用而恢复到水平的静止位置而形成的。海波在一般情况下是完全的纵波而不是横波,海水质点在包含波前进方向的垂直面内画出椭园或近似椭园的轨迹。如果设海水密度为p、表面张力为r、重力加速度为g、波长为1、水深为h,则波速为:波长不同波速也不同。如图1表示的那样,在十分深的海里,在波长为(1.7厘米)处,取波速的最小值23厘米/秒。波长在短于其临界值1.7厘米时,其复原力(恢复原状的力)主要是表面张
The sea wave is formed from the rest of the sea water which is disturbed by the wind or other reasons due to gravity or the like; the surface tension restores to a horizontal resting position. In general, a sea wave is a complete longitudinal wave rather than a transverse wave. The seawater particles draw elliptical or approximate elliptical trajectories in a vertical plane containing the direction of the waves. If the density of seawater is p, the surface tension is r, the acceleration of gravity is g, the wavelength is 1 and the depth of water is h, then the wave speed is: the wave speed is different at different wave speed. As shown in Fig. 1, in a very deep sea, at a wavelength of (1.7 cm), a minimum of 23 cm / s is taken. Wavelength shorter than its critical value of 1.7 cm, the resilience (restitution force) is mainly the surface of Zhang