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本文主要根据莆田海堤试验站的实测波浪记录,探讨浅水一元波能谱统计特性和分析方法;由波高、波周期联合分布,导出一元无维量波能周期谱及频率谱的一般公式;最后导出浅水风浪频谱计算式。
In this paper, we mainly study the statistical characteristics and analysis method of the uniaxial wave energy spectrum of Putian seafloor test station based on the observed wave records. The general formula of the periodic spectrum and the frequency spectrum of one dimension non-dimensional wave energy is derived from the joint distribution of wave height and wave period. Finally, Export the formula of shallow water wave spectrum.