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葡萄酒大师（ Master of Wine）：葡萄酒信息搜索网站Wine-Searcher（葡萄酒搜索引擎）的葡萄酒总监。从业近30年，具有丰富的葡萄酒销售、推广、培训、品鉴等方面的知识。
常说喝酒是需要合适的场合的，但碰上合适的地方，在合适的时候，有合适的食物，喝啥酒反而好像没那么重要了。这期，David Allen MW跟我们分享了一个小故事，看一瓶便宜且普通的葡萄酒是如何让这位葡萄酒大师回味30年吧。
It needs a specific occasion to taste aspecial wine， but when we encounter a fineplace，a fine timing and fine food， to tastewhich wine seems not that important. In thisissue， David Allen MW share with us a story，which remain in his memory for 30 years.
有種说法是，有些葡萄酒是“经不起旅行”的，当然，葡萄酒能够耐受运输过程中被粗暴地对待。大多数的葡萄酒在运输的过程中因为震动还有温度变化会碰到“晕瓶”的现象，“晕瓶”现象会造成短期的问题，在上市之前往往等不到时间来恢复。
那时的我是一名年轻的，有闯劲的葡萄酒商，在读了一本介绍意大利葡萄酒的手册后，了解到Rocca di Papa的葡萄酒值得一试。这个小镇是阿尔本山脉的几个小镇之一，地处罗马之上，那里富有的居民在更凉快、更高的地方置有避暑别墅以躲避城里的热浪。例如，教皇的夏宫就占据了Castel gandolfo的阿尔巴诺湖。
拉齐奥的阿尔巴尼丘不是个出名的葡萄酒产区一它靠近弗拉斯卡蒂（Frascati），出产的葡萄酒也是类似地，用Trebbiano和Malvasia酿造的清爽干型白葡萄酒而出名。至于红葡萄酒，我们则在产区西北方20公里远的Olevano合作社里面，尝到了一种挺讨喜的本地品种，Cesenase。
我的一伙伴很熟悉这个地方，在听到我想要尝尝这里的葡萄酒后，就去给我们安排了午餐。他先是找了一家会制作当地“猪肉三文治”的咖啡厅。这不是啥高级菜式，就两块厚厚的、新鲜出炉的乡村面包，中间夹着厚厚的滚烫的烤猪肉。
接下来，我们就去找小酒馆喝酒。一个很难想象的，对意大利乡村十分刻板的印象是一尽管外面是灼热的天气，那些石头建的老旧房子内里却阴暗且凉爽。几位戴着平顶帽的老人安静地围坐在一张铺着红色格子布的小桌子旁玩扑克牌。酒馆的主人是一位戴着头巾的成熟妇人，衣服衬子下是饱经风霜的皮肤。听到我们想要点葡萄酒后，她打开了房间后面一个粗糙的木门，木门传来吱吱的声音，然后她就下去了黑暗的酒窖中。
她回来时手里拿着的瓶子让我失望了。我一直在等待的这葡萄酒是装在1.5L的塑料矿泉水瓶里的！这真的是个矿泉水瓶子，瓶子上还贴着原来的矿泉水标签。甚至这瓶子已经不是第一次用来装葡萄酒了，因为标签上还有干掉的酒迹。我们付了相当于25便士然后掉头就走。
沿着草木环绕的土路走了一小段，就到了阿尔巴诺湖，我们在那边野餐。那顿乡村美食的美好，那靠着湖边的雪松树投下的树影，一直灵动地存留在我的记忆中。冻得恰到好处的葡萄酒让塑料瓶子外面凝结出了水珠。我们就用简单的酒杯来喝，这葡萄酒有着深柠檬至金黄的色泽，散发出的稻草和梨子香气完美地搭上了那多汁的猪肉，那猪肉的汁水都浸透面包了。这酒的尖锐感削减了猪肉的肥腻，轻轻的氧化感和酚类的苦味很好地搭上了软嫩的肉质。低酒精度（11%）让它成为完美的午餐酒。
显然用这多汁的猪肉来配这款酒是抬高它了，但它在补充食物味道上也有所作为。地点、天气、氛围还有文化让这成为了一个难得的机会，而这款简单的葡萄酒让它升华了。要想在其他地方重温这样的组合基本不可能了。
There is a belief that some wines“donot travel" and clearly wine can sufferfrom rough handling during shipmentMost wines acquire some bottle-shockas vibration and temperature variationduring transport can cause sort-termissues for newly shipped wines that arenot allowed time to recover befo re sale
Another aspect of wines “not travelling”is that often they show at their best in theregion of production， consumed in theatmosphere where they were crafted， witha local cuisine which developed alongsidethe wines l first saw this 30-years ago， inltaly， when visiting the town of Rocco diPapa with friends
As a young， eager wine-merchant l wasreading a guide to ltalian wines whichsuggested Rocca di Papa' S wines wereworth trying The small town is one ofseveral in the Alban HillS above Rome- where the city'S wealthy residentshave summer residences allowing themto exchange the city'S heat for cooler，higher-altitude locations The Pope'Ssummer residen ce， for instance， is across Lake Albano in Castel gandolfoLazio' s Colli Albani is not a famous wineregion - nearby Frascati， making similarfresh， dry white wines from Trebbiano andMalvasia， is better known For red wineswe found pleasant drin king from a localva riety， Cesenase， at the co-operative inOleva no， 20 kilometers to the northwestOne of my companions who knew thetown， on hea ring I wa nted to try the wine，set out to organize lunch for us First，he found a cafe making the local “pigsandwiches” . This was not fine-dining，comprising hunks of piping-hot， roasted-pork between thick slices of freshly-baked rustic bread
Next， we visited the cantina for wineA more stereotypical image of ruralItaly is hard to envisage - the old， stonebuilding' s interior was dark and cool，despite scorching heat outside Elderlymen in flat caps silently sat round smalltables with red check tablecloths， playingca rds The proprietor was a mature ladywith a head-scarf， her weather-beatensk： n was heavily lined On our request forwine she opened a coarse wooden doorat the back of the room， which creakedatmospherically， and descended into thedark cellar
The bottle she carried when she returneddisappointed me This wine I had sought-out came in a 15 litre plastic mineral-water bottle！ It was clearly a mineral waterbottle as it still bore the mineral waterlabel Nor was it the first time this bottlehad held wine either， as there appearedto be wine-stains dried onto the labell Wepaid the equivalent of 25 pence and left
A short walk along a dusty path borderedby parched grass led to Lake Albano，where we picnicked The magnificenceof that rural meal， in the shade of cedartrees， beside the lake， remains vivid inmy memory The beautifully chilled wineensured the plastic bottle glistenedwith condensation Consumed fromsimple glass tumblers， the wine had adeep lemon-gold colour and straw andpear aromas that perfectly matched thesucculent pork， whose juices infused thebread The wine' s sharpness cut throughthe pork' s fattiness， slight oxidativetouches and phenolic bitterness playedwonderfully against the tender meatLowish （c11 %） alcohol made this a perfectlunchtime-wine
Clearly pairing it with juicy pork flatteredthis rustic white wine， but it also playedits part by complimenting the food Thecombination of place， climate， atmosphereand culture made this a sublime occasion，enhanced by the simple wine Recapturingthis combination elsewhere would beimpossible！
常说喝酒是需要合适的场合的，但碰上合适的地方，在合适的时候，有合适的食物，喝啥酒反而好像没那么重要了。这期，David Allen MW跟我们分享了一个小故事，看一瓶便宜且普通的葡萄酒是如何让这位葡萄酒大师回味30年吧。
It needs a specific occasion to taste aspecial wine， but when we encounter a fineplace，a fine timing and fine food， to tastewhich wine seems not that important. In thisissue， David Allen MW share with us a story，which remain in his memory for 30 years.
有種说法是，有些葡萄酒是“经不起旅行”的，当然，葡萄酒能够耐受运输过程中被粗暴地对待。大多数的葡萄酒在运输的过程中因为震动还有温度变化会碰到“晕瓶”的现象，“晕瓶”现象会造成短期的问题，在上市之前往往等不到时间来恢复。
那时的我是一名年轻的，有闯劲的葡萄酒商，在读了一本介绍意大利葡萄酒的手册后，了解到Rocca di Papa的葡萄酒值得一试。这个小镇是阿尔本山脉的几个小镇之一，地处罗马之上，那里富有的居民在更凉快、更高的地方置有避暑别墅以躲避城里的热浪。例如，教皇的夏宫就占据了Castel gandolfo的阿尔巴诺湖。
拉齐奥的阿尔巴尼丘不是个出名的葡萄酒产区一它靠近弗拉斯卡蒂（Frascati），出产的葡萄酒也是类似地，用Trebbiano和Malvasia酿造的清爽干型白葡萄酒而出名。至于红葡萄酒，我们则在产区西北方20公里远的Olevano合作社里面，尝到了一种挺讨喜的本地品种，Cesenase。
我的一伙伴很熟悉这个地方，在听到我想要尝尝这里的葡萄酒后，就去给我们安排了午餐。他先是找了一家会制作当地“猪肉三文治”的咖啡厅。这不是啥高级菜式，就两块厚厚的、新鲜出炉的乡村面包，中间夹着厚厚的滚烫的烤猪肉。
接下来，我们就去找小酒馆喝酒。一个很难想象的，对意大利乡村十分刻板的印象是一尽管外面是灼热的天气，那些石头建的老旧房子内里却阴暗且凉爽。几位戴着平顶帽的老人安静地围坐在一张铺着红色格子布的小桌子旁玩扑克牌。酒馆的主人是一位戴着头巾的成熟妇人，衣服衬子下是饱经风霜的皮肤。听到我们想要点葡萄酒后，她打开了房间后面一个粗糙的木门，木门传来吱吱的声音，然后她就下去了黑暗的酒窖中。
她回来时手里拿着的瓶子让我失望了。我一直在等待的这葡萄酒是装在1.5L的塑料矿泉水瓶里的！这真的是个矿泉水瓶子，瓶子上还贴着原来的矿泉水标签。甚至这瓶子已经不是第一次用来装葡萄酒了，因为标签上还有干掉的酒迹。我们付了相当于25便士然后掉头就走。
沿着草木环绕的土路走了一小段，就到了阿尔巴诺湖，我们在那边野餐。那顿乡村美食的美好，那靠着湖边的雪松树投下的树影，一直灵动地存留在我的记忆中。冻得恰到好处的葡萄酒让塑料瓶子外面凝结出了水珠。我们就用简单的酒杯来喝，这葡萄酒有着深柠檬至金黄的色泽，散发出的稻草和梨子香气完美地搭上了那多汁的猪肉，那猪肉的汁水都浸透面包了。这酒的尖锐感削减了猪肉的肥腻，轻轻的氧化感和酚类的苦味很好地搭上了软嫩的肉质。低酒精度（11%）让它成为完美的午餐酒。
显然用这多汁的猪肉来配这款酒是抬高它了，但它在补充食物味道上也有所作为。地点、天气、氛围还有文化让这成为了一个难得的机会，而这款简单的葡萄酒让它升华了。要想在其他地方重温这样的组合基本不可能了。
There is a belief that some wines“donot travel" and clearly wine can sufferfrom rough handling during shipmentMost wines acquire some bottle-shockas vibration and temperature variationduring transport can cause sort-termissues for newly shipped wines that arenot allowed time to recover befo re sale
Another aspect of wines “not travelling”is that often they show at their best in theregion of production， consumed in theatmosphere where they were crafted， witha local cuisine which developed alongsidethe wines l first saw this 30-years ago， inltaly， when visiting the town of Rocco diPapa with friends
As a young， eager wine-merchant l wasreading a guide to ltalian wines whichsuggested Rocca di Papa' S wines wereworth trying The small town is one ofseveral in the Alban HillS above Rome- where the city'S wealthy residentshave summer residences allowing themto exchange the city'S heat for cooler，higher-altitude locations The Pope'Ssummer residen ce， for instance， is across Lake Albano in Castel gandolfoLazio' s Colli Albani is not a famous wineregion - nearby Frascati， making similarfresh， dry white wines from Trebbiano andMalvasia， is better known For red wineswe found pleasant drin king from a localva riety， Cesenase， at the co-operative inOleva no， 20 kilometers to the northwestOne of my companions who knew thetown， on hea ring I wa nted to try the wine，set out to organize lunch for us First，he found a cafe making the local “pigsandwiches” . This was not fine-dining，comprising hunks of piping-hot， roasted-pork between thick slices of freshly-baked rustic bread
Next， we visited the cantina for wineA more stereotypical image of ruralItaly is hard to envisage - the old， stonebuilding' s interior was dark and cool，despite scorching heat outside Elderlymen in flat caps silently sat round smalltables with red check tablecloths， playingca rds The proprietor was a mature ladywith a head-scarf， her weather-beatensk： n was heavily lined On our request forwine she opened a coarse wooden doorat the back of the room， which creakedatmospherically， and descended into thedark cellar
The bottle she carried when she returneddisappointed me This wine I had sought-out came in a 15 litre plastic mineral-water bottle！ It was clearly a mineral waterbottle as it still bore the mineral waterlabel Nor was it the first time this bottlehad held wine either， as there appearedto be wine-stains dried onto the labell Wepaid the equivalent of 25 pence and left
A short walk along a dusty path borderedby parched grass led to Lake Albano，where we picnicked The magnificenceof that rural meal， in the shade of cedartrees， beside the lake， remains vivid inmy memory The beautifully chilled wineensured the plastic bottle glistenedwith condensation Consumed fromsimple glass tumblers， the wine had adeep lemon-gold colour and straw andpear aromas that perfectly matched thesucculent pork， whose juices infused thebread The wine' s sharpness cut throughthe pork' s fattiness， slight oxidativetouches and phenolic bitterness playedwonderfully against the tender meatLowish （c11 %） alcohol made this a perfectlunchtime-wine
Clearly pairing it with juicy pork flatteredthis rustic white wine， but it also playedits part by complimenting the food Thecombination of place， climate， atmosphereand culture made this a sublime occasion，enhanced by the simple wine Recapturingthis combination elsewhere would beimpossible！