自20世纪30年代起,西方艺术首饰领域掀起了一场重要的革命,艺术家们试图突破传统首饰的概念,让首饰作为一种艺术表达形式而为人所接受。这个运动一直持续到20世纪50年代,“可佩带艺术”的概念才最终被艺术界认可。在这二三十年里,西方的艺术首饰设计发生了很大变化:传统珠宝材料所扮演的角色进一步被削弱,追求精神作用的诉求在逐渐加强。尤其是后现代主义装置艺术的介入,使得艺术首饰设计的精神作用超越了物质形式,首饰与人体的关系也更加多样化。基于对首饰与人体关系的不同思考,当代艺术首 Since the 1930s, an important revolution has taken place in the field of western art jewelry. Artists try to break the traditional concept of jewelry and make it acceptable as a form of artistic expression. The movement lasted until the 1950s, and the concept of “wearable art” was finally accepted by the art world. In the past two or three decades, there has been a great change in the design of western art jewelery: the role played by traditional jewelry materials has been further weakened and the quest for spiritual effect has been gradually strengthened. In particular, the intervention of postmodern installation art makes the spiritual function of art jewelery design transcend the material form and the relationship between jewelery and human body is also more diversified. Based on the different thinking of the relationship between jewelry and human body, the first contemporary art