论文部分内容阅读
海洋破碎波是海气交换、海洋工程、海浪预报等研究中的重要物理现象,是全球变化研究以及海洋空间探测技术研究中必须要考虑的重要因素之一。在海洋破碎波研究与应用中的首要的问题是选择准确可靠的破碎波判据。本文总结了破碎波判据的研究状况,给出了各种波浪破碎波判据的表达形式及其相互间的换算关系;通过分析破碎波判据的理论与实验研究结果,提出了一个包含风场和波参量的风浪破碎判据的计算模式及实测结果验证,同时给出了各种破碎波判据及破碎波发生率的实测结果。这是国内首次进行海洋破碎波判据研究的报道。
Ocean wave breaking is an important physical phenomenon in the research of sea-air exchange, ocean engineering and ocean wave forecasting. It is one of the important factors that must be considered in the research of global change and the research of marine space exploration. The primary problem in the research and application of ocean wave breaking is to select the accurate and reliable criterion for the wave propagation. This paper summarizes the research status of the broken wave criterion and gives the expressions of the various types of wave broken wave criteria and their mutual conversion relations. By analyzing the theoretical and experimental research results of the broken wave criterion, Field and wave parameters of wind and wave crushing criterion calculation model and test results verify, and given a variety of broken wave criteria and the incidence of broken wave measured results. This is the first report of the research on the criterion of ocean wave breaking in China.