“它是地府的。”迈克尔·波伦在《植物的欲望》一书中这样谈到土豆,并将它与小麦作了一番对比:小麦向上指,指向太阳和文明;土豆却向下指,指向地府的幽暗,它的块茎在我们看不见的地下成长,藤叶懒散地趴在地面上。中国人的常识是吃啥补啥。而法国人则说:“告诉我你吃什么,我就可以告诉你,你是什么。”吃土豆补的是什么呢?是地气,还是土地能 “It’s land. ” Michael Polon talked about potatoes in The Plant’s Desire, comparing it to wheat: wheat pointing up, pointing to the sun and civilization, and potatoes turning toward Downward, pointing to the darkness of the prefect, its tubers grow invisible to us, and the leaves lie lazily on the ground. Chinese common sense is to eat what make up what. The French said: “Tell me what you eat, I can tell you, what are you.” What is the use of potatoes to make up?