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本文依托20世纪70年代中国纺织考古的一次重大发现—福州南宋黄昇墓(淳祐二年,1243年)出土的纺织服饰资料,从“服装”与“着装对象”二元关系出发,运用定量与定性相结合的研究方法,致力于南宋淳祐时期贵族妇女着装形态的复原考证工作,从着装品类、着装秩序、着装风格等方面展开研究,试图呈现该时期女性衣装生活的真实面貌。纷繁的服饰品类因季节气候、环境场合等自然、社会因素被有序组合、搭配,构成南宋贵族妇女绚丽、奢华的衣装文化世界。除了雍容华贵的礼用大袖衫裙外,贯穿于日常生活始终的裙背装与襦裙服所呈现出的是以“纤秀雅趣”为主流审美特色的宋人习尚;而南宋不同时期贵族妇女衣装所呈现的差异化特征,则透露出宋代女性时尚“数岁即一变”的缤纷样态。
This article relies on a major discovery of Chinese textile archeology in the 1970s - the textile and apparel materials excavated from the Huangsheng Tombs of the Southern Song Dynasty in Fuzhou (Chunyou years, 1243), starting from the dual relationship between “clothing” and “clothing objects” , Using the combination of quantitative and qualitative research methods, devoted himself to the restoration and examination of aristocratic women’s dresses during the Chun Woo period in the Southern Song Dynasty. From the aspects of dress category, dress code and dress style, this article tries to present the true appearance of women’s dresses in this period. Variety of apparel categories due to the seasonal climate, environmental conditions and other natural and social factors are ordered combination, with the composition of the Southern Song aristocratic women brilliant, luxurious clothing culture world. In addition to the elegant gift sleeve sleeves, throughout the daily life of the dresses and skirts are presented in order to show the elegance of the aesthetic aesthetic features of the Song Xi Xi Shang; and the South Song is different Period aristocratic women’s clothing presented differences in the characteristics of the show, the Song Dynasty female fashion “a few years that is a change ” colorful style.