长期以来,食物和饮食方式构成了人类学研究的传统议题。列维一斯特劳斯尝试在食物语言建立普遍的意义系统,玛丽·道格拉斯解读了膳食社会符号,萨林斯则分析了关于内部与外部、人类与野蛮的食物隐喻。阎云翔、郭于华、景军等也对中国饮食文化作了细致深刻的描述和分析。稍微不同的是,本文试图以咸亨酒店和麦当劳为例,检视全球化社会变迁进程中中国饮食消费社会空间和社会形式的演变过程及其社会文化后果。 For a long time, the food and diet form the traditional topic of anthropological research. Levi-Strauss attempts to establish a universal system of meanings in the food language, Mary Douglas interprets the dietary social symbols, and Salines analyzes metaphors of food, both internal and external, human and barbaric. Yan Yunxiang, Guo Yuhua, Jing Jun also made a detailed and profound description and analysis of Chinese food culture. Slightly different, this article attempts to take Xianheng Hotel and McDonald’s as an example to examine the evolutionary process and social and cultural consequences of the social space and social form of China’s food consumption in the process of globalization.