武义民宿:随园的“童话之乡”

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  以溫泉、有机茶闻名的浙江中部的山区小县武义,连接着钱塘江、瓯江两大水系。峰峦峡谷中密布的古村落,融合有上山文化和畲乡文化,因此而形成独立单元的民宿——随园、一水间、青枫谷、梁家山、云上、古梅庄、阳春山居、一草堂等声名远播。
  出县城,从唐风温泉走起,穿过清水湾沁温泉和赛车场,快要到可以渺渺茫茫遥望历史云雾的岭下汤的石梁架屋,有武义江上游支流菊溪流淌不息。这里,挨着路边有个婺州窑遗址叫“碗铺”。小山村只有200多人口,古朴的泥土房屋和卵石夹杂石板铺地的巷弄错错落落,村沿后山就是知名民宿随园的所在。


  随园依偎山脚而上,远远看去,小木屋营造的客房就像垒筑树丛的鸟巢,但如果将之形容为陶碗,恐怕更贴切。目前,开放的客房取名曰“采菊”“东篱”“悠然”“南山”“归去”“来兮”等,让人想见陶渊明的田园风致。这几间客房营业没几个月,就被微信群“上海吃货”盯上了,他们呼朋引伴轮番上山,使随园应接不暇。但主人戴俊夫妇不急于过度扩张,只想再在山腰的水磨坊平台开发一间“桃源”。
  上下随园有垂直的步行道,山腰则有弯曲的山道连接。住在山下的民宿,倚坐窗前,听山泉潺潺而下、水潭水沟里田鸡石蛙呱呱鸣叫,然后可以去书屋捡一本童话书,就能进入梦境。住在山顶的民宿,透过亮瓦,看流星消失,想往事划过,于是可以去自助厨房,在石桌石椅吃宵夜。
  广州美院学艺术设计出身的戴俊说,种果园是他的主业,民宿仅是副业,因此,随园只要做好“限额版”民宿足矣,客人住不下,欢迎他们自带帐篷栖息水磨坊下面的草坪过夜。戴俊是个爱闯荡的盛年书生,曾在北京、上海、广州等地做过20多年各种酒店的室内装潢设计,及至倦游归来,便在老家山坡营建起自己的理想田园。他承包了300多亩山地,种植树莓、蓝莓、樱桃、金橘等20多款四时水果,其中的主角是树莓,种有200多亩。
  不太清楚武义的文学传统,但多年来这里童话创作的氛围已然形成。听说县里要打造“中国童话之乡”,并计划从包括汤汤书屋在内的新兴的璟园到岭下汤之间建一条“童话走廊”;作为武义童话作家汤汤的粉丝,戴俊就产生念头把自己的农家乐改成具有童话示范意义的民宿——随园。现在,随园已与台湾童话村“青蛙爸爸”接洽,戴俊想把童话嫁接古婺窑火,让随园成为青蛙王子和青蛙公主的独立自由的王国。
  循武义母亲河熟溪至上游,民宿一水间系搬移古建筑而立建,客房临水,岸边草木丛中萤火虫闪闪。它的经营风生水起:美食餐厅、茶吧与农家书屋配套组合,稻浪金黄的田塍上有瑜伽秀和选美、影视拍摄等活动,增添了文化民宿的名气。一水间所在地的大公山,是金华上山文化遗址代表之一,游客体验民俗农活时,拿起锄头掘地,一不小心就会掘出新石器时代的石球、石棒等陶器碎片和稻谷化石。
  过柳城西溪桥不远,有个叫“车门”的畲族村寨,傍着水库和山谷,周边白水瀑布、牛头山脉和十里荷花风光诱人。村寨里开办10多年的山庄青枫谷,是全省知名的农家乐,近些年改为民宿。主人曾琳烧得一手好菜,又能因地制宜设计风格独特的客房。一条流水的山谷坡地上,建了一排古色古香的建筑,除了大床房、标准房,还设计了绿皮火车的上下铺。住在青枫谷,是游览武义风景、领略畲乡风情的好地方,森林公园、佛教寺庙、荷田胜景、山溪风光,环列四周;听畲族土语、看畲族服装、赏畲族歌舞,给人难忘的印象。
  拐向大溪口乡、三港乡方向,那里有不少空壳的古村落,如今成了集中开发民宿的好地方。瓯江上游深邃的群山中有生态民宿取名“梁家山”,这整村搬迁而来的民宿,毗连小黄山景区和“中国传统村落”山下鲍。位于海拔800米的梁家山,以一条溪涧把上百幢泥土房一分为二,开发出其中的49幢作民宿。这里以制作知名天下的叶法善道家豆腐的豆腐坊和利用深涧清泉的水碓坊,以及被古树林簇拥着的道观三元宫,为“风水”中轴线和幽美的人文身段。


  梁家山被前山、后山挡住外面的世界,惟有黄鹂鸟的鸣叫忽高忽低地滑落,提醒大家尚有世事。上海游客方建安和裴福花老两口,在梁家山住了一个星期还舍不得离开,说,这里的纯朴原始很养生,质量高,成本低,真是平民养老的好地方。目前,梁家山住满了沪杭都市人。
  阳春山居是新开发出来的民宿,正对俞源村口巨大的太极图。俞源古村落是体验中国传统农耕社会的国际性旅游及养生胜地,作家、艺术家到俞源创作首选阳春山居。一草堂是浙中知名艺术村平头村的民宿,特点是文化人接待文化人,带动周边农村的文化发展。
  接地气原生态文化民宿,成了武义生机勃勃的风景线。
  (本文摄影:张建成)
  Rural Inns in Wuyi
  By Yan Zihe
  As rural tourism booms across Zhejiang, Wuyi, a county of mountains and rivers in central Zhejiang, cuts a brilliant figure. The county boasts thermal spas and organic tea. And it connects with Qiantang River and Ou River, two major river systems in Zhejiang. In the valleys are ancient villages. There are about ten inns in Wuyi whose reputation spreads far and wide.
  Suiyuan is probably the best known and most distinguished inn in Wuyi. It is located in Wanpu, a riverside village with a population of 200. The time-worn adobe houses and pebbled and flagstone roads in the village indicate a history of no radical changes. Suiyuan nestles against the foot of the hills. From afar, the small wooden cottages look like bird nests in trees. A few months after the inn became operational some gourmets from Shanghai noticed the inn. They soon arrived in waves and Suiyuan enjoyed brisk business. Dai Jun and his wife, however, are not in a hurry to expand the business.   A graduate of art design, Dai Jun says that fruit farming is his major business and the inn operation is his sideline. He was in high-end internal decoration business for over 20 years in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou. Tired of the outside world, he and his wife came back to his hometown. At present he operates a 20-hectare fruit farm in the hills near the village. The farm yields raspberry in large quantity as well as blueberry, cherry and cumquat.
  Green Maple is a mountain resort that has been operating for over ten years. It is in a scenic village where a small compact community of ethnic people live. Near the village is a reservoir, a waterfall and hills. What is more, the village is also known for lotus flowers blooming for kilometers in the summer. Zen Lin is the owner of Green Maple. He is a great chef. In the past ten years, Green Maple attracted gourmets. In recent years, Zen has designed and developed a home inn on the bank of a bubbling stream on the hillside. Green Maple as a business flourishes partly because it conveniently sits at the gateway to a raft of tourism attractions scattered around. One can wander into forests, visit a Buddhism temple and lotus ponds, and explore the lifestyle of ethnic people, all in convenient neighborhoods. From Green Maple, one can visit many other ancient villages. As villagers have long since moved out to better convenient settlements, the vacated villages are now targets of investors for turning them into homes away homes for tourists.
  Liangjiashan is another village deep in mountains and far away from anywhere. Flanked by high mountains, the village is near a scenic zone and Xiashanbao, a perfect specimen on a list of Traditional Villages of China. A stream valley divides the village of 100 adobe houses into two parts. The 49 have been turned into home inns. There is a famed tofu workshop and a mill that taps into the power of the stream in the valley. Another big attraction is a Taoist temple near the village. Liangjiashan is a favorite attraction for golden-aged urbanites from big cities such as Shanghai and Hangzhou. They love the peace and serenity of the village, the slow pace of life, and affordable living there.
  Mid Spring Mountain Resort is a new property development opposite to Yuyuan Village, a huge tourist attraction which pulls in domestic and international tourists for the traditional agricultural lifestyle highlighted by the village. In other words, what makes Mid Spring Mountain Resort enjoy a brisk business is Yuyuan Village. Art students, artists and writers favor the resort. Thatched Cottage is a good village inn where artists love to stay as they come over to sketch around Pingtou Village, one of the best sketching destinations in central Zhejiang.
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