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在板类运动家族中,如果单板是爸爸、滑板是爷爷,那么冲浪就是亚当。古波利尼西亚人创造了冲浪这项和巨浪搏命的运动。1866年,当马克·吐温行至夏威夷时,不禁惊叹那里的“土人竟不穿衣服,一闲下来,全民都投身到和海浪玩耍的消夏活动中……”自那时起,冲浪这个在世界尽头茫茫蓝色中穿行的运动,就深深地吸引着无所畏惧的小伙子们。大家叫他们“浪人”——和海浪相伴,在海中流浪。转眼间,中国也有了浪人的身影。朋友的朋友良少是位摄影师,这个滑板摄影界如大神一般的人物,最近就半路出家迷上了冲浪。在巨浪面前,他那标准的“相机哥”模样瞬间消
In the plate sports family, if the board is father, skateboarding is grandfather, surfing is Adam. The ancient Polynesian created the sport of surfing the wave. When Mark Twain traveled to Hawaii in 1866, he exclaimed that “the natives did not wear clothes and did their leisure, and the whole community devoted themselves to the summer activities that play with the waves ...” “Since then, Surfing the sport of walking through the vast blue of the end of the world enthralled the fearless boys. We call them ”ronin “ - accompanied by the waves, wandering in the sea. Suddenly, China also has a ronin figure. Fellow friend or less is a photographer, this skateboarding photography such as the god of the general public, recently halfway fans fell in love surfing. In front of waves, his standard ”camera brother" instantly disappear