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西方学界主要从社会、市场和文化三个维度,阐释市场化条件下时尚的产生和传播机制,本研究引入国家新变量,从民众的日常着装入手,着重探讨“文革”期间广东民众着装时尚的类型,总体性社会中国家及其政治意识形态等因素对个体着装时尚的影响,以及非市场化条件下时尚的产生与传播机制。研究发现:国家在时尚建构中的作用显著,它型塑了合法性时尚,并自上而下地建立起一整套政治化的日常着装秩序。它遵从权力和资源的垄断逻辑,力图借助特殊的着装制度将普通民众的思想彻底革命化,其产生和传播的背景是列宁式政党、军队和国家政权。总体主义的社会控制系统、密不透风的国家意识形态和计划经济三者共同造就了“文革”着装时尚。
Western scholars mainly explain the generation and dissemination mechanism of fashion under the condition of marketization from the three dimensions of society, market and culture. In this study, we introduce new variables of our country and start from the everyday dress of the people. The type of fashion, the overall social situation in the country and its political ideology and other factors on the individual dress fashion, as well as under non-market conditions, the generation and dissemination of fashion mechanism. The study found that: the role of the state in the fashion construction is significant, it shapes the legitimacy of fashion, and from top to bottom to establish a set of politicized daily dress code. It follows the monopoly logic of power and resources and seeks to revolutionize the minds of ordinary people through a special dressmaking system. Its background is that of Leninist parties, the military, and the state power. The holistic social control system, the airtight national ideology, and the planned economy together created the “Cultural Revolution” dress fashion.