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我不是什么海洋学家,更不是地震学家,我以一个老海员对海的体验来解释海啸的威力。陆地上的人一般只知道海上的浪,但不知道航海者还将波浪分成两大类,波短的称为浪(Wave),波长的称为涌(Swell)。前者的波长有小于1-2米的,且波峰较尖;后者的波长最大的超过200米,且波峰又圆又平。所以,同样波高的一个浪与一个涌袭击一个海滩时,后者的水量可能
I am not an oceanographer, not a seismologist. I explain the power of a tsunami with the experience of an old seaman. People on land generally only know the waves of the sea, but they do not know that the mariner divides the waves into two major categories. Waves are short called waves and wavelengths are called waves. The former wavelength is less than 1-2 meters, and the peak is sharp; the latter has the largest wavelength of more than 200 meters, and the peak is round and flat. So, with a wave of the same wave and a surge of assault on a beach, the latter’s water volume may