现代波浪理论的研究和应用表明 ,有必要采取更加系统、精确的理论和计算方法来确定一定水深条件下平稳、推进、有限振幅的重力波的特征参数。利用 Cokelet理论 ,采用摄动系数法对极平缓岸坡及变坡条件下的规则波的破碎进行了分析 ,从而为海岸工程的设计提供了理论依据 ,在一定程度上克服了先期理论的不足 The research and application of modern wave theory show that it is necessary to take more systematic and precise theoretical and computational methods to determine the characteristic parameters of the gravitational wave with steady, propulsive and finite amplitude under certain water depth. Using Cokelet theory, the perturbation coefficient method is used to analyze the regular wave breakup under the condition of very gentle slope and variable slope, which provides a theoretical basis for the design of coastal engineering and to some extent overcomes the deficiencies of the earlier theory