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利用青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室现代化的大型水槽,设计进行了多种海浪强度下,由深水传入近岸不同坡度水底上的变浅随机海浪的实验.依据实验资料分析结果表明,对变浅非正态海浪过程而言,其波面高度分布取Gram-Charlier级数前3项,所得结果与实验分布符合良好.该分布中a、3个参量是测点水深和波浪强度的函数,并获得了与无因次参量Hs/d之间的经验关系,为预测变浅随机海浪的波面高度分布提供了可能.
Using the large modernized large-scale sink at Qingdao Ocean University Physical Ocean Laboratory, a series of experiments were carried out to investigate the effects of various sea-wave intensities on the shallow-water stochastic ocean waves at different slopes of the nearshore. According to the experimental data, the results show that for the shallowing non-normal wave process, the wave height distribution of the first three Gram-Charlier series, the results obtained and the experimental distribution in good agreement. The three parameters α and β of the distribution are a function of water depth and intensity of the measuring point and obtained the empirical relationship with dimensionless parameter Hs / d, which makes it possible to predict the wave height distribution of the shallow ocean.