“一针一线”总关情

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  In Beijing, China, there is a lane called Nanluoguxiang, which is always busy. In the lively lane, there is a quiet small shop, which is the new window of “Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program” opened with the support of Beijing Women’s Federation – a boutique store of the brand “Stitch by Stitch”. Recently, the reporter visited the new window on a warm spring day.
  在中国北京,有一条叫做南锣鼓巷的巷道,终日人流往来穿梭不息。而在这热闹喧嚣里,有一家静静的小店,她就是“羌绣帮扶计划”在北京市妇联支持下打开的新窗口——“一针一线”品牌实体专卖店。近日,记者踏着昂扬的春意探访了这个新窗口。
  The window starts the destiny
  that ties people together
  彼之窗牖,吾之缘起
  The predecessor “Stitch by Stitch” project was the “Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program” launched by One Foundation after the 5?12 earthquake. The responsible person of Beijing “Stitch by Stitch” boutique store Miao Jindi told the reporter “‘Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program’ help the women in severely afflicted area of earthquake realize self-reliance by embroidery in their hometown and reconstruct their homeland. Till now, the program has trained over 8000 local women, given out 1.4 million embroidery works and benefited over 6500 families.”
  The severely afflicted area of the 5?12 earthquake is the habitation of Qiang ethnic minority, where covers Wenchuan, Lixian county, and Maoxian County and the Qiang embroidery is a traditional technique mastered by every local woman. “Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program” takes advantage of Qiang embroidery to help local women get employment. With the support of women’s federation of Sichuan Province, party committee and government of Aba Prefecture, and One Foundation of Red Cross, on July 24, 2008, “Aba Prefecture Women Employment Assistance Center of Qiang Embroidery” was established, and the “Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program” was officially launched.
  “一针一线”项目的前身是“5·12”汶川大地震后,由壹基金启动的“羌绣帮扶计划”。北京“一针一线”实体专卖店的负责人苗金弟跟记者介绍说,“‘羌绣帮扶计划’帮助地震重灾区妇女不离乡不离家,通过绣花自力更生、重建家园。项目实施至今,已培训当地农村妇女8000余人,发放绣片140万件,超过6500个家庭从中受益。”
  原来,“5·12”大地震的重灾区——汶川、理县、茂县是羌族的聚居地,羌绣是当地妇女人人皆会的传统技能。“羌绣帮扶计划”正是利用“羌绣”这门传统技艺,帮扶灾区妇女就地就业。在四川省妇联、阿坝州州委州政府和中国红十字会“壹基金”支持下,2008年7月24日“阿坝州妇女羌绣就业帮扶中心”成立,“羌绣帮扶计划”正式启动。
  However, in the two years afterwards, the orders of the Assistance Center mainly are charity orders of enterprises. In order to realize sustainable development, in 2010, the Assistance Center established the “Stich by Stich” brand, aiming to realize the virtuous cycle of charity assistance and market operation. In the same year, the e-commerce platform of “Stich by Stich” came into operation and the first boutique store was opened in the well-known Kuan and Zhai Alley of Chengdu. Beijing Women’s Federation worked with Sichuan Province Women’s Federation and opened the second boutique store in Beijing to better promote and support traditional culture. On April 15, 2013, the boutique store of “Stich by Stich” started business in Nanluoguxiang Lane of Beijing. The new window of “Qiang Embroidery Assistance Program” officially opened.   然而,在地震后两年的时间里,帮扶中心的订单大多以企业的爱心订单为主。为了实现可持续发展,2010年“帮扶中心”创建了“一针一线”品牌,理想状态是能够实现公益帮扶与市场结合的良性循环。同年,“一针一线”品牌开通电子商务平台,并将第一家实体专卖店落户到成都著名的宽窄巷子。北京市妇联为了更好的推广和支持传统文化,2013年和四川省妇联合作,将第二家实体专卖店落户到了北京。2013年4月15号,北京“一针一线”实体专卖店在久负盛名的南锣鼓巷开业,“羌绣帮扶计划”的新窗口正式对外打开了。
  The beauty and warm of warmth of “Stich by Stich”
  “一针一线”的美好与温情
  “Qiang is one of the oldest ethnic groups in the big family of Chinese nationalities, and even older than the legendary monarchs Yao, Shun and Yu,” Yao Jindi said proudly. In thousands of years, they have preserved the special ethnic and cultural genes inherited through generations, and the disposition of ancient Qiang culture is reflected in Qiang embroidery.
  The worst-hit area of 5·12 earthquake was the habitation of 32,000 people of Qiang ethnic group, and the ancient Qiang culture was severely challenged. Qiang embroidery is the cultural heritage that is most lively, closest to their lives, and best for communicating with the world. Its composition, coloring, and stich technique have strong ethnic characteristics. The profound cultural reserve and wide application space of Qiang culture lay the necessary foundation for Qiang embroidery to blend in the lives of modern people, and Qiang culture is promoted and passed along with this carrier.
  “羌族是我们中华民族大家庭中最古老民族之一,甚至连尧舜禹也不及她远久。”苗金弟不无自豪的对记者说道。千百年来,她们保留了中华民族古老而特有的民族文化基因,这种千年古羌文化的气韵流淌出来便有了羌绣。
  “5·12”汶川大地震的重灾区,正是中国32万羌族儿女的聚居区,古羌文化面临着生死存亡的挑战。而“羌绣”是留存至今最为鲜活生动、与羌人生活最为密切、最能与现实世界对话的羌文化遗产,其构图、配色、针法具有显著地民族特色。深厚的羌民族文化底蕴和广泛的运用空间,使羌绣具备了融入现代人生活领域的必要条件,羌文化也借此载体得到了很好地发扬和传承。
  Miao gladly: “I love the products in our store. If you observe closely, you can feel the positive energy delivered by the designer and embroidery lady! Look at the picture on this purse. There is forest at far and trees in near, and all of them have been cut, and there is also a sad small bird standing in a broken tree, but there are three blossoms in the middle. Our life is also like that! Although their homeland was destroyed by the earthquake, their desire for a better life was lighten up despite sadness. Isn’t it a silver lining?”
  As an ancient non-material cultural heritage, the cultural deposit of Qiang culture is embedded in Qiang embroidery in terms of the pattern, coloring, deposition and stich technique. It’s not exaggerated to say that every stitch of Qiang embroidery carries sensation and is directly linked to the hearts of people. Although the earthquake brought them the catastrophic damage, it didn’t ruin their desire and hope for a bright future. They use the Qiang embroidery they are excel at to express their warmth and perseverance.   “我特别喜欢我们店里的产品,仔细琢磨,你就会发现设计师和绣娘所传达的正能量!”苗金弟颇有些得意说道,“你看这款包上绣的远处的树林、近处的树木,都是被砍伐过的,还有一只小鸟忧伤地站在断裂的树枝上,但是,你看在这中间竟然还有三朵悄然绽放的花儿。我们现实中也不是如此吗?虽然地震毁坏了她们的家园,但是她们在忧伤过后又重新燃起了对美好生活的向往。这花骨朵儿不正是绝望中的转机与蓬勃的生机嘛!”
  作为一种古老的非物质文化遗产,无论在图案、颜色、构成还是针法上都有着千年古羌文化的积淀,也流露出羌民族的生活情趣与理想表达。倘若说羌绣是针针带着情、线线连着心,也一点不为过。虽然地震给她们的家园造成了毁灭性的的破坏,但是丝毫没有毁坏的是她们对美好未来的向往与期盼。她们用她们所熟稔的羌绣,一针一线的传达着她们的温情与坚忍。
  Adhere to tradition in the process of innovation
  在创新中恪守传统
  Embroidery can be considered as a way for women to express themselves. It used to be closely connected to our lives. However, when we speak of embroidery nowadays, it has already become an artwork and far away from our lives, not to mention Qiang embroidery that is not even in the Four Major Embrodieries of China. “The most challenging problem is marketing, because not a lot of people know the technique of Qiang embroidery,” Miao told the reporter.
  However, when sighing for this traditional art, we should also be innovative in the process of transmission. In order to promote Qiang culture and expand the development space of Qiang embroidery, we should also apply the harmonious factors of Qiang embroidery to various sectors of modern life and let Qiang embroidery give the aesthetic feeling and cultural joy to modern life on the basis of respecting the original characteristics of Qiang embroidery.
  刺绣可以说是先前女人表达情感的一种方法,它曾经与我们的生活如此融合并息息相关,可如今大多数时候一提起刺绣,似乎已经变成了一件艺术品,离我们的生活越来越远。更何况不在中国传统四大名绣之列的羌绣?“最大的问题还是推广,没有多少人知道羌绣这种绣法技艺。”苗金弟告诉记者说。
  然而,在扼腕叹息之余,现在要做的是在传承中创新。要发扬羌绣文化、拓展羌绣发展空间,就要在充分尊重羌绣本色文化的基础上,把羌绣文化元素和谐地运用到现代人生活的各个领域,让羌绣给予现代生活视觉上的美感和文化上的写意。
  Thus, while digging into the technique of traditional Qiang embroidery, “Stich by Stich” also actively explores the value and spirit of traditional culture in modern time. In the implementation of this program, “Stich by Stich” has joined hands with famous designers both home and abroad and well-known design agencies to integrate fashions with traditional Qiang embroidery, which gives Qiang embroidery vigor of the age and brand new cultural essence. The products gradually cover clothes, household items, daily supplies, business supplies and tourist novelties. Qiang embroidery has become a new model to lead fashions and activate traditional techniques.
  It’s also worth mentioning that in the market where computer embroidery and machine embroidery run wild, “Stich by Stich” has always stuck to traditional techniques, without slack attitude. All of the embroidery adopt traditional techniques of Qiang embroidery and has been completed stitch by stitch. Miao said, “The essence of Qiang embroidery lies in its essence of handcraft. We would rather give up the order than use machines. Sticking to tradition and quality is the root of ‘Stich by Stich’. Moreover, using machines also lose the meaning of assisting the women of Qiang ethnic group living in mountains who can directly get profits from every sold piece of embroidery. Only by selling products, can we provide more and more orders to the women of Qiang ethnic group living in mountains, and realize the goal of assistance.”   于是在对古老羌绣技艺进行挖掘、整理的同时,“一针一线”积极探寻传统文化在当下的价值与精神,使其焕发出更鲜活的生命力。在计划实施的这几年中,“一针一线”联合国内外著名的设计师与知名设计机构,将古老的羌绣技能与时尚完美结合,为羌绣赋予了时代活力与崭新的文化内涵,产品领域逐步涵盖服饰、生活用品、日用家居、商务及旅游用品等系列。成为古老民族传统技艺时尚活化的创新典范。
  值得一提的是,在如今这个电脑绣花和机绣技艺横行市场的社会,“一针一线”却在形式创新的同时坚决恪守着传统技艺,丝毫不敢为了提高产量和效益而懈怠,全部产品的绣花部分皆采用原始的羌绣技艺、手工一针一线绣成。苗金弟说,“羌绣的精髓就在它的手工,我们宁可不做这单生意了,也不用机绣,坚守传统与质量是‘一针一线’品牌的命根子。再者,如果用机器去绣,也失去了最初帮扶的意义。因为每卖出一件产品,山里的羌族妇女都能获得最直接的利益。只有不断地卖出产品,才能给更多山里的羌族妇女提供源源不断的订单,达到帮扶的目的”。
  Postscript:
  后记:
  While “Stich by Stich” protects and develops the national non-material cultural heritage of “Qiang Embroidery”, it also bears the concept of “teaching someone fishing is better than giving him a fish”. Without changing the original living circumstances of the local people, it develops the production assistance model of “company-base-farmer household”, enabling the women of Qiang ethnic group to get employment in their hometown. The program has provided women in the mountainous areas with 80,000 pieces of embroidery, trained over 5000 talents in embroidery, and offered economic opportunities to more than 8000 local women.
  “一针一线”在保护、开发国家非物质文化遗产“羌绣”的同时,秉承“授人鱼不如授人渔”的理念,在不改变当地群众原有生活形态的情况下,大力发展“公司-基地-农户”的生产帮扶模式,使羌族妇女不离乡、不离土即可就业。羌绣计划实施几年来,为灾后农村高半山地区的妇女发放绣片80万件,培训绣娘5000多人,为当地8000多名妇女提供了扶贫增收的机会。
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