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Abstract-Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally andnumerically. The applicability of the wave propagation model of higher-order Boussinesq equations de-rived by Zou(2000, Ocean Engneering, 27, 557～575) is investigated. Physical experiments areconducted; three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set-up in the experimentand their effects on the wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of the numerical results withtest data are made and the higher-order Boussinesq equations agree well with the measurements since thedispersion of the model is of high accuracy. The numerical results show that the good results can also beobtained for the steep-slope cases although the mild-slope assumption is employed in the derivation of thehigher-order terms in the higher-order Boussinesq equations.
Abstract-Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally andnumerically. The applicability of the wave propagation model of higher-order Boussinesq equations de rived by Zou (2000, Ocean Engneering, 27, 557-575) is investigated. areconducted; three different front slopes (1:10, 1: 5 and 1: 2) of the shelf are set-up in the experiment and their effects on the wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of the numerical results with test data are made and the higher -order Boussinesq equations agree well with the measurements since the dispersion of the model is of high accuracy. The numerical results show that the good results can also be obtained for the steep-slope cases although the the-slope assumption is employed in the derivation of thehigher- order terms in the higher-order Boussinesq equations