一菜一格 川菜的神韵是什么?有人认为无疑是麻辣,有人认为未必。依笔者之见,两种说法均有理。诚然,四川盆地既湿且热,不得不食麻辣发散之。故巴蜀自古以来就有一嗜辣族。当然,川菜的好味道绝不止一个“辣”字。川菜凉菜“冷淡杯”,颜色不好,黑不溜湫的,味道却好得很,那是一点也不辣的,更无麻味。川菜是七滋(酸、甜、麻、辣、苦、香、咸)八味(鱼香、酸辣、椒麻、怪味、麻辣、红油、姜汁、家常)七滋是单一味,八味是复合味。其中,各味自有特色,风格各不相同,绝不至于混淆。譬如:酸辣决不同麻辣;椒麻也不同麻辣;而鱼香、怪味、红油、家常则是川 What is the charm of a dish of Sichuan cuisine? Some people think that is undoubtedly spicy, some people may not think. According to the author’s opinion, both statements are reasonable. It is true that the Sichuan Basin is wet and hot and has to eat spicy food. Therefore, since ancient times, there is a spicy Bashu. Of course, the good taste of Sichuan is more than a “hot” word. Sichuan dish cold cup, the color is not good, the black is not slipping, the taste is very good, it is not hot at all, but no hemp flavor. Sichuan cuisine is a seven-Zi (sour, sweet, hemp, spicy, bitter, fragrant and salty) eight flavor (fish, hot and sour, paprika, smell, spicy, Bawei is a complex flavor. Among them, each taste its own characteristics, different styles, will not be confused. For example: hot and spicy is different from the spicy; paprika is also different spicy; and fishy smell, smell, oil, home is Sichuan