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金秋的西子湖畔，天高气爽，在如织的游人中，一对老夫妻在白堤上匆匆行走，“楼外楼到了！”
面带微笑的服务小姐热情地把两位老人引进餐厅，待老人落座后，服务小姐又递上菜单，请老人点菜。两位老人一边商量一边点菜。10多分钟后菜上来了，他们津津有味地品尝西湖醋鱼、龙井虾仁等菜肴，并连连点头赞道：“味道正宗！”
名菜佳肴 湖楼飘香
楼外楼素以经营杭州传统名菜而闻名于世，在烹饪技艺上逐渐形成了独树一帜的传统风格，即重视原料的鲜、活、嫩，突出本味，清新怡人。楼外楼拥有西湖醋鱼、龙井虾仁、宋嫂鱼羹、叫化童鸡、东坡肉等一大批传统名菜。
“西湖醋鱼何处美，独数杭州楼外楼。”杭州人有种习俗，凡有宾客，必到楼外楼品尝杭菜风味。外地游人玩西湖，不上楼外楼，似乎没有真正领略杭州的美味佳肴。
2010年，楼外楼卖出西湖醋鱼20多万条，叫化童鸡16万多只，东坡肉500多吨，其中西湖醋鱼、龙井虾仁、东坡肉、宋嫂鱼羹、叫化童鸡5只传统名菜占总销售额的55.8%。从这一组数据中便可以领略到楼外楼的美食魅力。
作为杭州传统名菜的发祥地，“以菜名楼，以文兴楼”的楼外楼讲究色、香、味、形、质，除传统名菜外，还研制了一大批风味特色菜，烹制出200多种如鼋鱼煨乳鸽、鲍鱼扣肥鸭等创新菜。近年来楼外楼连续主办了各种大型饮食文化和烹饪技艺的研讨交流活动，其中有南北特色菜肴荟萃的食品节、有高层次的饮食文化学术交流，如浙江饮食文化技艺研讨会、杭州与台湾饮食文化技艺研讨会、亚洲饮食文化技艺研讨会等。
就在笔者探访楼外楼之时，这家百年老店經多方考证整理，“找回”了老底子的20只西湖传统老菜，翻出了压箱底160年的雅士名人的照片和墨宝，今日楼外楼的年轻厨师们从保存下来的老旧菜单上翻到了西湖老菜的名称和配料，不过具体怎么烹制还需要老师傅手把手教。楼外楼为此特意邀请名厨陈阿达、徐子川、陈善昌、叶杭生、柴宝荣、吴顺初、陶海明亲手传承，让更多的人能品尝到西湖老味道。
据了解，这些老底子西湖名菜推出后，由于口味独特，价廉物美，颇受消费者青睐。不仅外地游客慕名而至，而且许多杭州人也纷纷前来，有老夫妻双双而来的，有四代同堂结伴来的，有情侣携手来的，除了寻找当年品尝老底子西湖名菜的感觉，更多的是唤起美好的回忆。
人因菜传，楼随人香，名人与美食，名楼与人文相融相生。有着163年历史的老店“楼外楼”，吸引着一批又一批近现代文化名人，他们到楼外楼品尝美味，同时也留下了很多逸闻趣事和诗文笔墨，更与楼外楼菜馆及西湖名菜相映成趣，形成了一种温文蕴藉、耐人品味的浓浓老味道。
重修楼宇 美轮美奂
如今重登楼外楼的中外客人都会惊异地发现，楼外楼显得更加豪华气派，美观舒适。让人有些相见不相识了。
近几年来，楼外楼投巨资进行改建装修。重新恢复三楼，顶覆铜瓦，高18米，建筑面积5000平方米，新建的三楼增加了一批高档包厢。全店现可同时容纳1300多人用餐，比过去增加了300个餐位。不仅扩大了营业面积，而且就餐环境也更加舒适怡人。
在西湖申遗期间装修的楼外楼，装潢上更加讲究文化品位。大餐厅悬挂巨幅名人书画，包厢用红木框画和精美竹编画装点。在三楼，无论包厢还是过道都摆放了红木雕刻的沙发，以及状似蟹、虾的椅子，既富有灵气，又美观大方。在走廊上、包厢里，还点缀着我国著名书画家的作品，透出优雅之气。在一楼大堂，装潢别具匠心，四周悬挂着书法名家赵朴初、沙孟海、启功、沈鹏题写的“楼外楼”金字匾额，四根硕大的立柱上镶嵌着四块金字诗匾：苏东坡那首著名的“淡妆浓抹总相宜”。
楼外楼飞檐画栋，花窗青瓦，清丽典雅；敞厅亮轩，华灯彩壁，大气端庄。它宛如一首凝固的诗，宛如一幅立体的画，把自然之美与人工之巧，把艺术境界与现实生活融为一体，令世人赞叹。中国人历来讲究餐饮环境,特别是一些文士墨客、官商名人，更喜欢在山清水秀之地把酒品美味。近代诗人高燮有《楼外楼小饮》诗一首：“小饮微醺狎水鸥，六桥烟柳望中收。莼肥鱼嫩闲风味，难忘楼外楼。”写尽了在楼外楼用餐时的感受和心境。因为在这里宴饮，“推窗望湖平水清柳翠楼外风光好，举箸尝鲢肥笋嫩莼鲜席间笑语盈”，人在楼中，楼在景中，在微醺醺笑盈盈大快朵颐之际，人和楼，楼和景，早已融为一体了。
前几年在中国工艺美术大师陆光正的主持及打理下，楼外楼经过一轮装修，建筑装潢的风格更加清丽和谐，内涵更加丰富隽永。特别值得一提的是，陆大师专门为楼外楼设计创作了一帧大型壁雕：《东坡浚湖图》，这帧壁雕有50平方米画面，85个人物，5个连成一气的场景，真实生动地记录和反映了九百多年前苏东坡率众疏浚西湖的过程。《东坡浚湖图》装点在一楼到二楼旋转楼梯旁的墙壁上，分外醒目，令每一个到楼外楼的宾客，都眼睛一亮。
楼外楼不仅是提供美食的场所，同时也是一个展示民族风俗文化内涵的场所，使人享受美味时又能体验一种文化情调。
以文兴楼 楼以文名
富有历史文化底蕴的中华老字号楼外楼，它在创建之时，就浸润在浓郁的文化氛围中。取自宋代林昇诗句“山外青山楼外楼”而富有诗情画意的店名，使她与中国传统文化融合在一起。多少年来，无数政要名流、文人墨客登楼把盏，感受历史名店的文脉，留下珍贵的墨宝。
楼外楼在环境设置中始终珍视名楼的文化传统和人文、自然资源，悉心增添文化氛围。楼外楼特意将60多个包厢取出有文化内涵的名字，刻成匾额，要求服务员能讲出该匾额的含意。餐厅及包厢里，悬挂了周总理在楼外楼接待外国元首的历史照片和社会名流为楼外楼创作的诗词书画，突出了百年老店的文化历史。
近几年来，楼外楼每年都要举办“春秋书画创作笔会”活动，邀请大江南北的书画名家相聚一堂，吟诗作画。现在楼外楼已收藏名家书画数百幅。楼外楼人深谙“楼以文兴”之道，他们把这些书画作品视作文化艺术的瑰宝，精心收藏保护。在营业场所十分紧张的情况下，还专门设立面积约250平方米的楼外楼书画陈列室，长年展出收藏的名家书画作品，观者踊跃，满堂生辉，尽显名楼风采。□
Louwailou Adds Art to Taste
In celebration of the newly acquired World Heritage status of the West Lake in June 2011, the lakeside Louwailou Restaurant has launched a menu of 20 some dishes of decades ago. Over the past 163 years, the restaurant has been famed for providing a wide range of traditional dishes of Hangzhou cuisine. The restaurant is nothing if it is not traditional: many dishes that were on the menu decades ago still play a big part of the restaurant business today: in 2010 alone, diners placed more than 200,000 orders for West Lake Fish in Vinegar Gravy; the restaurant sold 160,000 Beggar’s Chickens and 500 tons of Dongpo Pork; the best known five traditional dishes accounted for 55.8% of the total annual revenue.
The traditional restaurant is also a sharp innovator. That explains why it has been around for so many years whereas its counterparts in the city have largely faded or even disappeared. It knows how to cater to local residents and visitors from the outside world. Finding the recipes of some traditional dishes and launching them again shortly after the West Lake was inscribed on the UNESCO’s list of world cultural heritage testifies to the restaurant’s fast response to market opportunities. The old recipes have brought a sense of nostalgia to local residents and travelers. The young chefs at the restaurant did not know how to best prepare old dishes. They had only recipes. The restaurant invited retired chefs back and taught the young ones.
As the only large restaurant situated inside the West Lake, Louwailou boasts a large collection of precious artworks such as calligraphic inscriptions and paintings, gifts left over by cultural celebrities over 163 years. In the restaurant lobby hang four inscriptions of the name of the restaurant in the handwritings of Zhao Puchu (1907-2000), Sha Menghai(1900-1992), Qigong (1912-2005) and Shen Peng (b.1931), all preeminent calligraphers of the twenty-century China. The interesting collection tells a unique story about the ties of these cultural celebrities and the restaurant.
The hardware of the restaurant reflects the cultural charm and history of the restaurant. Over the years, the restaurant has undergone various rounds of reconstruction and face-lifting. Now the 1,300 seats three-story restaurant looks like an art venue within and without.
The restaurant has been artistically touched up in a face-lifting project before the application for the UNESCO world heritage status. It now presents bronze tiles on the roof, carved windows, and upturned eaves, all being the traditional Chinese architectural features.
Some artworks from the collection are on display in the corridors and rooms of the restaurants. The most eye-catching artwork on display is a long 50-square-meter wood sculpture. The five separate pieces, connected together, present a total of 85 figures and portray a large-scale lake dredging project by Su Dongpo more than 900 years ago in Hangzhou. All the sixty private rooms are graced by artworks by celebrities and photographs and each has a poetic name. The service people at the restaurant know relevant anecdotes and cultural who’s who and the meanings of the names of the private rooms.
The restaurant has a 255-m2 showroom where visitors can view paintings and calligraphies from the restaurant’s collection. Masterpieces are on display on a rotational basis. □
面带微笑的服务小姐热情地把两位老人引进餐厅，待老人落座后，服务小姐又递上菜单，请老人点菜。两位老人一边商量一边点菜。10多分钟后菜上来了，他们津津有味地品尝西湖醋鱼、龙井虾仁等菜肴，并连连点头赞道：“味道正宗！”
名菜佳肴 湖楼飘香
楼外楼素以经营杭州传统名菜而闻名于世，在烹饪技艺上逐渐形成了独树一帜的传统风格，即重视原料的鲜、活、嫩，突出本味，清新怡人。楼外楼拥有西湖醋鱼、龙井虾仁、宋嫂鱼羹、叫化童鸡、东坡肉等一大批传统名菜。
“西湖醋鱼何处美，独数杭州楼外楼。”杭州人有种习俗，凡有宾客，必到楼外楼品尝杭菜风味。外地游人玩西湖，不上楼外楼，似乎没有真正领略杭州的美味佳肴。
2010年，楼外楼卖出西湖醋鱼20多万条，叫化童鸡16万多只，东坡肉500多吨，其中西湖醋鱼、龙井虾仁、东坡肉、宋嫂鱼羹、叫化童鸡5只传统名菜占总销售额的55.8%。从这一组数据中便可以领略到楼外楼的美食魅力。
作为杭州传统名菜的发祥地，“以菜名楼，以文兴楼”的楼外楼讲究色、香、味、形、质，除传统名菜外，还研制了一大批风味特色菜，烹制出200多种如鼋鱼煨乳鸽、鲍鱼扣肥鸭等创新菜。近年来楼外楼连续主办了各种大型饮食文化和烹饪技艺的研讨交流活动，其中有南北特色菜肴荟萃的食品节、有高层次的饮食文化学术交流，如浙江饮食文化技艺研讨会、杭州与台湾饮食文化技艺研讨会、亚洲饮食文化技艺研讨会等。
就在笔者探访楼外楼之时，这家百年老店經多方考证整理，“找回”了老底子的20只西湖传统老菜，翻出了压箱底160年的雅士名人的照片和墨宝，今日楼外楼的年轻厨师们从保存下来的老旧菜单上翻到了西湖老菜的名称和配料，不过具体怎么烹制还需要老师傅手把手教。楼外楼为此特意邀请名厨陈阿达、徐子川、陈善昌、叶杭生、柴宝荣、吴顺初、陶海明亲手传承，让更多的人能品尝到西湖老味道。
据了解，这些老底子西湖名菜推出后，由于口味独特，价廉物美，颇受消费者青睐。不仅外地游客慕名而至，而且许多杭州人也纷纷前来，有老夫妻双双而来的，有四代同堂结伴来的，有情侣携手来的，除了寻找当年品尝老底子西湖名菜的感觉，更多的是唤起美好的回忆。
人因菜传，楼随人香，名人与美食，名楼与人文相融相生。有着163年历史的老店“楼外楼”，吸引着一批又一批近现代文化名人，他们到楼外楼品尝美味，同时也留下了很多逸闻趣事和诗文笔墨，更与楼外楼菜馆及西湖名菜相映成趣，形成了一种温文蕴藉、耐人品味的浓浓老味道。
重修楼宇 美轮美奂
如今重登楼外楼的中外客人都会惊异地发现，楼外楼显得更加豪华气派，美观舒适。让人有些相见不相识了。
近几年来，楼外楼投巨资进行改建装修。重新恢复三楼，顶覆铜瓦，高18米，建筑面积5000平方米，新建的三楼增加了一批高档包厢。全店现可同时容纳1300多人用餐，比过去增加了300个餐位。不仅扩大了营业面积，而且就餐环境也更加舒适怡人。
在西湖申遗期间装修的楼外楼，装潢上更加讲究文化品位。大餐厅悬挂巨幅名人书画，包厢用红木框画和精美竹编画装点。在三楼，无论包厢还是过道都摆放了红木雕刻的沙发，以及状似蟹、虾的椅子，既富有灵气，又美观大方。在走廊上、包厢里，还点缀着我国著名书画家的作品，透出优雅之气。在一楼大堂，装潢别具匠心，四周悬挂着书法名家赵朴初、沙孟海、启功、沈鹏题写的“楼外楼”金字匾额，四根硕大的立柱上镶嵌着四块金字诗匾：苏东坡那首著名的“淡妆浓抹总相宜”。
楼外楼飞檐画栋，花窗青瓦，清丽典雅；敞厅亮轩，华灯彩壁，大气端庄。它宛如一首凝固的诗，宛如一幅立体的画，把自然之美与人工之巧，把艺术境界与现实生活融为一体，令世人赞叹。中国人历来讲究餐饮环境,特别是一些文士墨客、官商名人，更喜欢在山清水秀之地把酒品美味。近代诗人高燮有《楼外楼小饮》诗一首：“小饮微醺狎水鸥，六桥烟柳望中收。莼肥鱼嫩闲风味，难忘楼外楼。”写尽了在楼外楼用餐时的感受和心境。因为在这里宴饮，“推窗望湖平水清柳翠楼外风光好，举箸尝鲢肥笋嫩莼鲜席间笑语盈”，人在楼中，楼在景中，在微醺醺笑盈盈大快朵颐之际，人和楼，楼和景，早已融为一体了。
前几年在中国工艺美术大师陆光正的主持及打理下，楼外楼经过一轮装修，建筑装潢的风格更加清丽和谐，内涵更加丰富隽永。特别值得一提的是，陆大师专门为楼外楼设计创作了一帧大型壁雕：《东坡浚湖图》，这帧壁雕有50平方米画面，85个人物，5个连成一气的场景，真实生动地记录和反映了九百多年前苏东坡率众疏浚西湖的过程。《东坡浚湖图》装点在一楼到二楼旋转楼梯旁的墙壁上，分外醒目，令每一个到楼外楼的宾客，都眼睛一亮。
楼外楼不仅是提供美食的场所，同时也是一个展示民族风俗文化内涵的场所，使人享受美味时又能体验一种文化情调。
以文兴楼 楼以文名
富有历史文化底蕴的中华老字号楼外楼，它在创建之时，就浸润在浓郁的文化氛围中。取自宋代林昇诗句“山外青山楼外楼”而富有诗情画意的店名，使她与中国传统文化融合在一起。多少年来，无数政要名流、文人墨客登楼把盏，感受历史名店的文脉，留下珍贵的墨宝。
楼外楼在环境设置中始终珍视名楼的文化传统和人文、自然资源，悉心增添文化氛围。楼外楼特意将60多个包厢取出有文化内涵的名字，刻成匾额，要求服务员能讲出该匾额的含意。餐厅及包厢里，悬挂了周总理在楼外楼接待外国元首的历史照片和社会名流为楼外楼创作的诗词书画，突出了百年老店的文化历史。
近几年来，楼外楼每年都要举办“春秋书画创作笔会”活动，邀请大江南北的书画名家相聚一堂，吟诗作画。现在楼外楼已收藏名家书画数百幅。楼外楼人深谙“楼以文兴”之道，他们把这些书画作品视作文化艺术的瑰宝，精心收藏保护。在营业场所十分紧张的情况下，还专门设立面积约250平方米的楼外楼书画陈列室，长年展出收藏的名家书画作品，观者踊跃，满堂生辉，尽显名楼风采。□
Louwailou Adds Art to Taste
In celebration of the newly acquired World Heritage status of the West Lake in June 2011, the lakeside Louwailou Restaurant has launched a menu of 20 some dishes of decades ago. Over the past 163 years, the restaurant has been famed for providing a wide range of traditional dishes of Hangzhou cuisine. The restaurant is nothing if it is not traditional: many dishes that were on the menu decades ago still play a big part of the restaurant business today: in 2010 alone, diners placed more than 200,000 orders for West Lake Fish in Vinegar Gravy; the restaurant sold 160,000 Beggar’s Chickens and 500 tons of Dongpo Pork; the best known five traditional dishes accounted for 55.8% of the total annual revenue.
The traditional restaurant is also a sharp innovator. That explains why it has been around for so many years whereas its counterparts in the city have largely faded or even disappeared. It knows how to cater to local residents and visitors from the outside world. Finding the recipes of some traditional dishes and launching them again shortly after the West Lake was inscribed on the UNESCO’s list of world cultural heritage testifies to the restaurant’s fast response to market opportunities. The old recipes have brought a sense of nostalgia to local residents and travelers. The young chefs at the restaurant did not know how to best prepare old dishes. They had only recipes. The restaurant invited retired chefs back and taught the young ones.
As the only large restaurant situated inside the West Lake, Louwailou boasts a large collection of precious artworks such as calligraphic inscriptions and paintings, gifts left over by cultural celebrities over 163 years. In the restaurant lobby hang four inscriptions of the name of the restaurant in the handwritings of Zhao Puchu (1907-2000), Sha Menghai(1900-1992), Qigong (1912-2005) and Shen Peng (b.1931), all preeminent calligraphers of the twenty-century China. The interesting collection tells a unique story about the ties of these cultural celebrities and the restaurant.
The hardware of the restaurant reflects the cultural charm and history of the restaurant. Over the years, the restaurant has undergone various rounds of reconstruction and face-lifting. Now the 1,300 seats three-story restaurant looks like an art venue within and without.
The restaurant has been artistically touched up in a face-lifting project before the application for the UNESCO world heritage status. It now presents bronze tiles on the roof, carved windows, and upturned eaves, all being the traditional Chinese architectural features.
Some artworks from the collection are on display in the corridors and rooms of the restaurants. The most eye-catching artwork on display is a long 50-square-meter wood sculpture. The five separate pieces, connected together, present a total of 85 figures and portray a large-scale lake dredging project by Su Dongpo more than 900 years ago in Hangzhou. All the sixty private rooms are graced by artworks by celebrities and photographs and each has a poetic name. The service people at the restaurant know relevant anecdotes and cultural who’s who and the meanings of the names of the private rooms.
The restaurant has a 255-m2 showroom where visitors can view paintings and calligraphies from the restaurant’s collection. Masterpieces are on display on a rotational basis. □