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Style, in a way, functions as a kind of sociocultural GPS, a psychic location finder. You can tell you’re in Paris, of course, because that’s the 1)spire of the Eiffel Tower piercing the sky and there, in the distance, is Notre Dame, with its bell towers and 2)flying buttresses.
Just as confidently you can confirm your presence in the City of Light by the vision of its female residents 3)disporting themselves along cobbled streets in 4)pencil skirts and 5)bank-heist 6)satchels and 7)blouses that require an instruction manual. Where but in Paris do women promenade in six-inch 8)platform-wedge sandals worn as casually as if they were 9)Keds?
Despite the 10)relentless march of globalization, a Parisian look persists. Others may ape it; eventually, they will throw up their hands in defeat.
And while the French are generally (and possibly too much) celebrated for their clever scarf-tying techniques, on anyone but an authentic Parisian a casually knotted kerchief from 11)Hermès can just as easily say Girl Scout troop leader as 12)paragon of chic.
Something mysterious persists in the human spirit, some subtly coded 13)flock mentality. Thus a Parisian who exchanges clothes with a Kansan will likely end up looking French regardless, just as, to an experienced eye, a Milanese gent can never be mistaken for a Roman one, though they share a nationality.
That man with an old wristwatch of modest dimensions, worn on a leather strap: Milanese. The zip-front 14)cashmere sweater; the 15)Moncler 16)puffer worn over a jacket; the 17)loden coat are all giveaways.
In Rome, patterns are boldly contrasting, ties knotted wider, shirt collars more generously expansive—as if to signal that, unlike their uptight northern cousins, Romans know how to chill out.
风格,从某种程度上说,有着一种社会文化定位仪的作用,是心灵归所的探测器。当然了,你可以说你正身处巴黎,因为你看见那埃菲尔铁塔的塔尖刺破天际,而远处,就是巴黎圣母院,可以看到其钟楼和飞扶拱。
而当你看到当地女性居民穿着铅笔裙,挎着天价坤包,套着一件需要说明书来指导穿着的宽松上衣,在鹅卵石铺就的街道上自娱自乐时,你也可以怀着同等的自信,肯定自己正身处这座“光之城”。除了在巴黎,还有哪里的女子能够在街头漫步时将六英寸(约15厘米)高的“恨天高”凉鞋穿出凯兹帆布鞋那般闲适的韵味呢?
尽管全球化的步伐从不停歇,但巴黎人的范儿依旧长存。其他人或许争相模仿,但最终他们还是会拱手认输。
而当大多数法国人(有可能特别多)在为其聪明的系围巾技巧而沾沾自喜时,唯有在地道的巴黎人身上,一条随意搭系的爱马仕方巾也能轻易地让女童子军领队成为高雅的典范。
某种神秘特质长存于人类的灵魂之中,某种巧妙地写成密码似的从众心理。因此就算是一个巴黎人跟一个美国堪萨斯州人换了衣衫,无论如何到最后,他看起来还是像个法国人,就像是,在经验丰富的人眼里,一位米兰绅士是绝不会被误认为是罗马男子的,尽管他们有着相同的国籍。
那个戴着大小适中的旧腕表,配着皮质表带:米兰人。前襟拉链的开士米羊毛衫、夹克衫外面套的蒙克莱羽绒服,还有那件罗登呢外套,全都是暴露真相的地方。
在罗马,图案对比大胆,领带系得更宽,衬衣领口更敞开——就像是为了表明,不像他们因循守旧的北方表亲,罗马人懂得如何放松。 Roman women signal this tendency by maintaining their tans regardless of the season. Never mind that tanning is universally understood to cause premature aging and cancer. To a Roman, like designer 18)Valentino Garavani, the risks are insignificant compared to the satisfaction of attaining a skin tone somewhere between Sunkist orange and burnt brick on the 19)Pantone scale. And no one can argue that a walnut tan is not perfect for setting off the 20)sorbet colors Romans favor—or for creating a contrast with the thick gold chains they drape at their throats or the gilded 21)manacles they cram onto their wrists.
Among other things, 22)magpie travelers like myself become collectors of sense souvenirs—fragments that, while they seldom add up to anything definitive, are pleasing to revisit and arrange in memory’s 23)vitrine.
Foodies store up recollections of the old-socks perfume of 24)truffles; the 25)voluptuous flesh of an Alphonso mango; the sizzle of a dumpling fried in oil at some Singapore hawker’s stall. Personally, I tend to forget what I’ve eaten the moment the knife and fork are crossed on the plate. In truth and in general, I prefer to eat with my eyes.
罗马女子无视季节变化保持古铜色皮肤,也是上述潮流的印证。管你全世界都说晒黑皮肤会导致早衰和癌症。对于罗马人来说,例如设计师瓦伦蒂诺·加拉瓦尼,相较于将皮肤晒成色卡上的新奇士橙和窑砖之间的某种色彩而得到的满足感,这些风险根本不足为道。没人能否认,把皮肤晒至胡桃棕,正好突显了罗马人最爱的冰沙色系衣饰,也是他们脖子上那粗金链或一手华贵金链饰物的完美映衬。
除了其他事物外,像我本人这样的“收集癖”旅行者会变成感官纪念品的收集者——那些记忆片段,尽管也说不上能造就什么终极结论,我就爱时常重温,整理心中的记忆橱窗。
食物蕴藏着众多的回忆:松露散发出的旧袜子似的香味;阿方索芒果的艳丽果肉;某个新加坡小吃摊上面团在油里炸开的咝咝声。个人而言,在酒足饭饱刀叉搁在餐盘上的那一刻,我倾向于忘记自己吃下了什么。大致上,事实上,我更喜欢用自己的双眼来进食。
Traveling, I consume, with equal parts 26)befuddlement and abandon, images like one spotted on a warm spring afternoon on the Tokyo metro. Standing on the platform of the Meiji-jingumae station were two groups. One, a 27)coven of the 28)demented goth 29)Lolitas called Harajuku Girls, was clad in 30)Frankenstein boots and nurse uniforms and had bleached-blonde dreadlocks or else tie-dyed yarn hair clipped into ponytails with real-life 31)dentures. The other, a collection of office workers, was dressed, penguin-style, in 32)Identikit black suits, white shirts, black ties, and black shoes.
It struck me then that there has got to be something strong in the cultural water to produce both Harajuku Girls and salarymen and contrasts of a kind you will observe in Tokyo and no other place on earth.
旅行时,我会以半迷惑半恣情的心态来“消化”人物形象,比方说某个在温暖的春日午后抢眼地出现在东京地铁上的人。在明治神宫前站的月台上站着两种类型的人群。这一边,是一群狂热的哥特式洛丽塔打扮的女孩,被称为“原宿少女”,她们脚踏弗兰肯斯坦靴子,身穿护士服,头发染成黄色小辫状,或是挑染,并用实用的齿梳夹成马尾辫。那一边,是一众上班族,穿成企鹅模样:艾登蒂基特黑色西服,白色衬衣,黑色领带,还有黑色鞋子。 这让我心头一颤:在这种文化之中一定有某些强烈的特质才会产生出“原宿少女”和工薪族两种对比鲜明的形象,而这除了在东京,你无法从世界上其他地方见得到。
Meanwhile in Munich, it is no rarity to see people at the opera or strolling through the 33)Englischer Garten dressed in 34)Maria von Trapp–style 35)dirndls or boiled-wool jackets or Trachten hiking hats adorned with $1,000 Gamsbart hat brushes made from the whiskers of Alpine nanny goats.
If Paris is a city of well-turned ankles, Munich is a city of knees.
And Brooklyn is a borough of body modification, the whole of Bushwick can sometimes seem like people who spend their idle hours 36)poring over catalogues of tattoo flash art or surgical supplies. Like Greenwich Village 37)beatniks and San Francisco hippies before them, the hipsters of Brooklyn oblige the random visitor by dressing the part.
And the natives of Los Angeles dress as if to blur to invisibility any boundary between public and private, indoors and out.
与此同时在慕尼黑,看到人们身穿《音乐之声》女主角玛利亚·冯·特拉普式的紧身连衣裙,或浓缩羊毛夹克衫,或头戴民族登山帽——上面装饰着价值1000美元的由阿尔卑斯母山羊胡须制成的麋鹿毛帽刷,去歌剧院或在英国花园流连也不算什么稀奇事。
如果在巴黎这座城市里满眼皆是优雅的脚踝,那么在慕尼黑就满城尽是美丽的膝盖了。
而在布鲁克林区里,则能看到对身体的各种修饰,在整个布什维克区里有时候似乎全都是那些把闲暇时光用于翻看文身艺术或外科手术用品目录的人。就像在其之前的格林威治村披头族和旧金山嬉皮士一样,这些布鲁克林的时髦族群使得偶尔造访的游客也入乡随俗起来。
而洛杉矶当地居民的衣着则像是要将一切公开与私人、室内与户外之间的界限模糊至虚无。
If you happen to have been raised in Manhattan at a time when men and women alike considered it appropriate to wear a hat and gloves in town, there is 38)exoticism to be found in the 39)Angeleno habit of wearing sweatpants and shower shoes in almost every setting or sloping around in fur-lined bedroom slippers or wearing a bikini, as 40)Joan Didion once did, to do her grocery shopping at Ralph’s.
Distinctions like these still hold in most of the cities of this country and also of the world. And they produce one of the great and reliable pleasures of travel, a mental 41)Instagram album in which you can click on an image of stork-thin 42)slackers perched on Pike Street in Seattle clad in 43)Doc Martens and 44)snap-brim 45)trilby hats; or of London city types hastening down rainslicked Piccadilly wearing 46)Savile Row suits with hourglass waists; or of flocks of faceless ravens in 47)hijabs 48)alighting at some refrigerated mall in Dubai; or of ruddy San Francisco kite-surfers clad in 49)neoprene and 50)Polar Fleece arrayed like gulls along the shoreline at Crissy Field; or of dignified Malian vendors 51)preening themselves on a corner in Harlem, the hems of their richly patterned and 52)voluminous 53)boubous suddenly lifted by a breeze on Lenox Avenue.
如果你恰巧生长于曼哈顿某个男男女女皆认为在市区应该戴上帽子和手套才合乎礼数的时期,那么在洛杉矶,你就能发现一丝异域风情,因为当地人几乎在任何场合都会穿着卫裤和淋浴鞋,或是趿着毛边卧室拖鞋四处溜达,又或是像琼·迪丹曾经做过的那样,穿着比基尼在劳尔夫超市买菜。
在这个国家,以及全世界的大部分城市,像这样的差别依然存在。而正是这些差别为旅行带来了巨大且可靠的乐趣之一,创造了一个心灵的Instagram相册,在其中你可以拍下某个坐在西雅图市派克街边,穿着马汀鞋、戴着翻沿软毡帽的精瘦懒汉;或是一副伦敦都市范儿的行人穿着萨尔维街定制西服,挺着纤细的小腰身,匆匆走过天雨路滑的皮卡迪利街;或是一群群裹着头巾的无面乌鸦飞至迪拜的某个冷藏品购物中心;或是脸色红润的旧金山风筝冲浪者们穿着带抓绒衬里的防寒橡胶潜水衣,像海鸥一样沿着克里西菲尔德公园的海岸线排列成行;或是庄严的马里商贩趾高气扬地站在哈勒姆区的某个角落,他们那花纹繁复且宽松的长袍褶边突然被莱诺克斯大道的清风撩起。
Just as confidently you can confirm your presence in the City of Light by the vision of its female residents 3)disporting themselves along cobbled streets in 4)pencil skirts and 5)bank-heist 6)satchels and 7)blouses that require an instruction manual. Where but in Paris do women promenade in six-inch 8)platform-wedge sandals worn as casually as if they were 9)Keds?
Despite the 10)relentless march of globalization, a Parisian look persists. Others may ape it; eventually, they will throw up their hands in defeat.
And while the French are generally (and possibly too much) celebrated for their clever scarf-tying techniques, on anyone but an authentic Parisian a casually knotted kerchief from 11)Hermès can just as easily say Girl Scout troop leader as 12)paragon of chic.
Something mysterious persists in the human spirit, some subtly coded 13)flock mentality. Thus a Parisian who exchanges clothes with a Kansan will likely end up looking French regardless, just as, to an experienced eye, a Milanese gent can never be mistaken for a Roman one, though they share a nationality.
That man with an old wristwatch of modest dimensions, worn on a leather strap: Milanese. The zip-front 14)cashmere sweater; the 15)Moncler 16)puffer worn over a jacket; the 17)loden coat are all giveaways.
In Rome, patterns are boldly contrasting, ties knotted wider, shirt collars more generously expansive—as if to signal that, unlike their uptight northern cousins, Romans know how to chill out.
风格,从某种程度上说,有着一种社会文化定位仪的作用,是心灵归所的探测器。当然了,你可以说你正身处巴黎,因为你看见那埃菲尔铁塔的塔尖刺破天际,而远处,就是巴黎圣母院,可以看到其钟楼和飞扶拱。
而当你看到当地女性居民穿着铅笔裙,挎着天价坤包,套着一件需要说明书来指导穿着的宽松上衣,在鹅卵石铺就的街道上自娱自乐时,你也可以怀着同等的自信,肯定自己正身处这座“光之城”。除了在巴黎,还有哪里的女子能够在街头漫步时将六英寸(约15厘米)高的“恨天高”凉鞋穿出凯兹帆布鞋那般闲适的韵味呢?
尽管全球化的步伐从不停歇,但巴黎人的范儿依旧长存。其他人或许争相模仿,但最终他们还是会拱手认输。
而当大多数法国人(有可能特别多)在为其聪明的系围巾技巧而沾沾自喜时,唯有在地道的巴黎人身上,一条随意搭系的爱马仕方巾也能轻易地让女童子军领队成为高雅的典范。
某种神秘特质长存于人类的灵魂之中,某种巧妙地写成密码似的从众心理。因此就算是一个巴黎人跟一个美国堪萨斯州人换了衣衫,无论如何到最后,他看起来还是像个法国人,就像是,在经验丰富的人眼里,一位米兰绅士是绝不会被误认为是罗马男子的,尽管他们有着相同的国籍。
那个戴着大小适中的旧腕表,配着皮质表带:米兰人。前襟拉链的开士米羊毛衫、夹克衫外面套的蒙克莱羽绒服,还有那件罗登呢外套,全都是暴露真相的地方。
在罗马,图案对比大胆,领带系得更宽,衬衣领口更敞开——就像是为了表明,不像他们因循守旧的北方表亲,罗马人懂得如何放松。 Roman women signal this tendency by maintaining their tans regardless of the season. Never mind that tanning is universally understood to cause premature aging and cancer. To a Roman, like designer 18)Valentino Garavani, the risks are insignificant compared to the satisfaction of attaining a skin tone somewhere between Sunkist orange and burnt brick on the 19)Pantone scale. And no one can argue that a walnut tan is not perfect for setting off the 20)sorbet colors Romans favor—or for creating a contrast with the thick gold chains they drape at their throats or the gilded 21)manacles they cram onto their wrists.
Among other things, 22)magpie travelers like myself become collectors of sense souvenirs—fragments that, while they seldom add up to anything definitive, are pleasing to revisit and arrange in memory’s 23)vitrine.
Foodies store up recollections of the old-socks perfume of 24)truffles; the 25)voluptuous flesh of an Alphonso mango; the sizzle of a dumpling fried in oil at some Singapore hawker’s stall. Personally, I tend to forget what I’ve eaten the moment the knife and fork are crossed on the plate. In truth and in general, I prefer to eat with my eyes.
罗马女子无视季节变化保持古铜色皮肤,也是上述潮流的印证。管你全世界都说晒黑皮肤会导致早衰和癌症。对于罗马人来说,例如设计师瓦伦蒂诺·加拉瓦尼,相较于将皮肤晒成色卡上的新奇士橙和窑砖之间的某种色彩而得到的满足感,这些风险根本不足为道。没人能否认,把皮肤晒至胡桃棕,正好突显了罗马人最爱的冰沙色系衣饰,也是他们脖子上那粗金链或一手华贵金链饰物的完美映衬。
除了其他事物外,像我本人这样的“收集癖”旅行者会变成感官纪念品的收集者——那些记忆片段,尽管也说不上能造就什么终极结论,我就爱时常重温,整理心中的记忆橱窗。
食物蕴藏着众多的回忆:松露散发出的旧袜子似的香味;阿方索芒果的艳丽果肉;某个新加坡小吃摊上面团在油里炸开的咝咝声。个人而言,在酒足饭饱刀叉搁在餐盘上的那一刻,我倾向于忘记自己吃下了什么。大致上,事实上,我更喜欢用自己的双眼来进食。
Traveling, I consume, with equal parts 26)befuddlement and abandon, images like one spotted on a warm spring afternoon on the Tokyo metro. Standing on the platform of the Meiji-jingumae station were two groups. One, a 27)coven of the 28)demented goth 29)Lolitas called Harajuku Girls, was clad in 30)Frankenstein boots and nurse uniforms and had bleached-blonde dreadlocks or else tie-dyed yarn hair clipped into ponytails with real-life 31)dentures. The other, a collection of office workers, was dressed, penguin-style, in 32)Identikit black suits, white shirts, black ties, and black shoes.
It struck me then that there has got to be something strong in the cultural water to produce both Harajuku Girls and salarymen and contrasts of a kind you will observe in Tokyo and no other place on earth.
旅行时,我会以半迷惑半恣情的心态来“消化”人物形象,比方说某个在温暖的春日午后抢眼地出现在东京地铁上的人。在明治神宫前站的月台上站着两种类型的人群。这一边,是一群狂热的哥特式洛丽塔打扮的女孩,被称为“原宿少女”,她们脚踏弗兰肯斯坦靴子,身穿护士服,头发染成黄色小辫状,或是挑染,并用实用的齿梳夹成马尾辫。那一边,是一众上班族,穿成企鹅模样:艾登蒂基特黑色西服,白色衬衣,黑色领带,还有黑色鞋子。 这让我心头一颤:在这种文化之中一定有某些强烈的特质才会产生出“原宿少女”和工薪族两种对比鲜明的形象,而这除了在东京,你无法从世界上其他地方见得到。
Meanwhile in Munich, it is no rarity to see people at the opera or strolling through the 33)Englischer Garten dressed in 34)Maria von Trapp–style 35)dirndls or boiled-wool jackets or Trachten hiking hats adorned with $1,000 Gamsbart hat brushes made from the whiskers of Alpine nanny goats.
If Paris is a city of well-turned ankles, Munich is a city of knees.
And Brooklyn is a borough of body modification, the whole of Bushwick can sometimes seem like people who spend their idle hours 36)poring over catalogues of tattoo flash art or surgical supplies. Like Greenwich Village 37)beatniks and San Francisco hippies before them, the hipsters of Brooklyn oblige the random visitor by dressing the part.
And the natives of Los Angeles dress as if to blur to invisibility any boundary between public and private, indoors and out.
与此同时在慕尼黑,看到人们身穿《音乐之声》女主角玛利亚·冯·特拉普式的紧身连衣裙,或浓缩羊毛夹克衫,或头戴民族登山帽——上面装饰着价值1000美元的由阿尔卑斯母山羊胡须制成的麋鹿毛帽刷,去歌剧院或在英国花园流连也不算什么稀奇事。
如果在巴黎这座城市里满眼皆是优雅的脚踝,那么在慕尼黑就满城尽是美丽的膝盖了。
而在布鲁克林区里,则能看到对身体的各种修饰,在整个布什维克区里有时候似乎全都是那些把闲暇时光用于翻看文身艺术或外科手术用品目录的人。就像在其之前的格林威治村披头族和旧金山嬉皮士一样,这些布鲁克林的时髦族群使得偶尔造访的游客也入乡随俗起来。
而洛杉矶当地居民的衣着则像是要将一切公开与私人、室内与户外之间的界限模糊至虚无。
If you happen to have been raised in Manhattan at a time when men and women alike considered it appropriate to wear a hat and gloves in town, there is 38)exoticism to be found in the 39)Angeleno habit of wearing sweatpants and shower shoes in almost every setting or sloping around in fur-lined bedroom slippers or wearing a bikini, as 40)Joan Didion once did, to do her grocery shopping at Ralph’s.
Distinctions like these still hold in most of the cities of this country and also of the world. And they produce one of the great and reliable pleasures of travel, a mental 41)Instagram album in which you can click on an image of stork-thin 42)slackers perched on Pike Street in Seattle clad in 43)Doc Martens and 44)snap-brim 45)trilby hats; or of London city types hastening down rainslicked Piccadilly wearing 46)Savile Row suits with hourglass waists; or of flocks of faceless ravens in 47)hijabs 48)alighting at some refrigerated mall in Dubai; or of ruddy San Francisco kite-surfers clad in 49)neoprene and 50)Polar Fleece arrayed like gulls along the shoreline at Crissy Field; or of dignified Malian vendors 51)preening themselves on a corner in Harlem, the hems of their richly patterned and 52)voluminous 53)boubous suddenly lifted by a breeze on Lenox Avenue.
如果你恰巧生长于曼哈顿某个男男女女皆认为在市区应该戴上帽子和手套才合乎礼数的时期,那么在洛杉矶,你就能发现一丝异域风情,因为当地人几乎在任何场合都会穿着卫裤和淋浴鞋,或是趿着毛边卧室拖鞋四处溜达,又或是像琼·迪丹曾经做过的那样,穿着比基尼在劳尔夫超市买菜。
在这个国家,以及全世界的大部分城市,像这样的差别依然存在。而正是这些差别为旅行带来了巨大且可靠的乐趣之一,创造了一个心灵的Instagram相册,在其中你可以拍下某个坐在西雅图市派克街边,穿着马汀鞋、戴着翻沿软毡帽的精瘦懒汉;或是一副伦敦都市范儿的行人穿着萨尔维街定制西服,挺着纤细的小腰身,匆匆走过天雨路滑的皮卡迪利街;或是一群群裹着头巾的无面乌鸦飞至迪拜的某个冷藏品购物中心;或是脸色红润的旧金山风筝冲浪者们穿着带抓绒衬里的防寒橡胶潜水衣,像海鸥一样沿着克里西菲尔德公园的海岸线排列成行;或是庄严的马里商贩趾高气扬地站在哈勒姆区的某个角落,他们那花纹繁复且宽松的长袍褶边突然被莱诺克斯大道的清风撩起。