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周作人在北京写过一篇《故乡的野菜》,几十年后,汪曾祺也以同样的题目写过一组散文,他们都不约而同地垂青江浙的荠菜,带着淡淡的遗憾与怀念,怀念野菜簇拥着的故乡。“我的故乡不止一个,凡我住过的地方都是故乡。现在住在北京,于是北京就成了我的家乡了。”分明野菜的滋味就是乡恋的滋昧。其实,北京也是有野菜的,从春到秋,绝不少于21种,不仅有野菜,还有各种可食的野果和昆虫,味道绝不混同于南方,不醇厚也不招摇,却能够长久地留在唇齿间,仿佛那是一条通往自然的桥梁。
Zhou Zuoren wrote a “hometown wild vegetable” in Beijing. Decades later, Wang Zengqi wrote a series of essays on the same subject, all of them invariably admired the shepherd’s purse in Jiangsu and Zhejiang Provinces. With a touch of regret and memory, Surrounded by the hometown. “My hometown is more than one, where I live are the hometown now living in Beijing, so Beijing has become my hometown. ” Clearly the taste of wild vegetables is the romance of rural love. In fact, Beijing is also a wild vegetable, from spring to autumn, no less than 21 species, not only wild vegetables, there are a variety of edible wild fruits and insects, the taste will not be confused with the South, not mellow nor swirling, but To be able to stay in the teeth for a long time, as if that is a bridge to nature.