一、海派旗袍的产生和演变“海派”一词起初是北京的一些作家对于上海某些文人和文风的批判,含有贬义的意味。海派的对立面便是京派。而后,海派和京派分别成为了象征中国两种文化的代称。但当后人用“海派”来形容服饰时,变贬义为褒义,富有艳羡、赞美的意蕴,“海派服装”差不多可同“海上画派”同日而语了。正如二十世纪二十年代居住于上海的曹聚仁先生曾这样评价,“京派不妨说是古典的,海派也不妨说是浪漫的;京派如大家闺秀,海派则如摩登女郎”“若大家闺秀可以嘲笑摩登女郎卖弄风 I. The emergence and evolution of the Shanghai cheongsam The phrase ”Shanghai School“ was originally a criticism of some writers in Beijing that criticized certain literati and style of writing in Shanghai and implied a derogatory meaning. The opposite of Shanghai School is Beijing School. Later, the Shanghai faction and the Beijing faction became the representative of each of the two cultures in China. However, when the descendants use ”Shanghai School“ to describe the costumes, they become derogatory as compliments, rich envy and praise, and ”Shanghai School Costumes“ can be almost the same as ”School of Maritime Painting“. Just as Mr. Cao Ju-jen, who lived in Shanghai in the 1920s, commented, ”The Beijing School can be said to be classical, the Shanghai School can also be romantic. The Beijing School is like a lady and the Shanghai School is like a modern girl.“ ”If everyone Ladies can laugh at the modern girl tease the wind