论文部分内容阅读
在１／２００的缓坡上进行了规则波与不规则波破碎的实验研究。在本实验条件下，分析了波形的不对称性对波浪破碎指标的影响，并以此对合田良实和Ｎｅｌｓｏｎ关于极平缓坡上规则波破碎指标的分歧作了解释。本文的研究还表明，底坡坡度ｉ、相对水深ｄ／Ｌ０及波形的不对称性对不规则波的破碎指标的影响较小。合田对规则波的破碎指标在不规则波条件下仍然可用，但系数Ａ应取为０．１５。不规则波波长与同周期按线性理论计算之波长的比值为０．７４。此外还对规则波破碎后的波高衰减系数及不规则波大波破碎概率作了分析。
The experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking on the gentle slope of 1/200. Under the experimental conditions, the influence of waveform asymmetry on the wave breaking index is analyzed, and the divergence between Reaga and Nelson’s interpretation of the regular wave breaking index on very gentle slope is explained. The research in this paper also shows that slope slope i, relative water depth d / L0 and waveform asymmetry have less influence on the breaking index of irregular wave. Aida’s rupture index of the regular wave is still available under irregular wave conditions, but the coefficient A should be taken as 0.15. The ratio of the wavelength of the irregular wave to the wavelength calculated by the linear theory in the same period is 0.74. In addition, the wave height attenuation coefficient and irregular wave breaking probability after wave breaking are analyzed.