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沒有多少葡萄酒消费者知道乌拉圭也是一个产酒国。事实上，乌拉圭是南美洲第四大葡萄酒生产商。尽管乌拉圭的葡萄酒产量仅占整个大陆的4%左右，但当你意识到，如果与邻国阿根廷和巴西对比的话，乌拉圭的面积有多么小时，那么这个“4%”着实令人印象深刻。
Not many wine consumers are aware that Uruguay is a wine producing country. In fact， it is the fourth largest wine producer in South America. Although its production is only around 4% of the entire continent， it is impressive when you consider how small Uruguay is comparing to its neighbours Argentina and Brazil.
乌拉圭是一个人口约350万的“小国家”，大多数居民是19世纪欧洲移民的后裔，正是他们带来了酿酒葡萄。毫无疑问，大部分乌拉圭葡萄酒的消费市场是在国内。事实上，乌拉圭的人均葡萄酒消费是除欧洲以外最多的国家。
在这样的历史和背景下，我相信乌拉圭葡萄酒一定有相应的质量标准，我也很渴望试试看嘉颂酒庄（Bodega Garzón）的葡萄酒。酒庄总经理克里斯蒂安·怀利近日来到城中推介巴拉斯托系列最新的2017年份葡萄酒。巴拉斯托（Balasto）是嘉颂酒庄的旗舰酒款，我们对该系列2015、2016以及2017年份做了一场垂直品鉴会。
Balasto在西班牙语里的意思是花岗岩土壤。嘉颂酒庄的土壤就是世界上最古老的花岗岩土壤，经过数百万年的地质变化过程后被侵蚀成为碎石土，可以为生长在其上的葡萄藤提供极好的排水性和矿物质。嘉颂酒庄的酿酒顾问阿尔贝托·安东尼说：这种土壤可以赋予葡萄酒能量和张力。酒庄葡萄园的海拔160米，距离大西洋海岸仅18公里，受大西洋微风的影响，园区内白天温度低，葡萄成熟速度缓慢，使风味可以得以很好的发展并保持自然的酸度。这个葡萄园由1000多个地块组成，会分开进行采摘和酿造，以保持各自的特色。
酿酒从来都是充满挑战的。克里斯蒂安说：到目前为止最大的问题就是熟练劳动力短缺。距离嘉颂酒庄最近的是海滨城市埃斯特角（Punta del Este），拉巴拉（La Barra）和何塞伊格纳西奥（Jose Ignacio），这几个地方的人们很少有耕作土地的经验。第二大问题是降雨，这里比波尔多每年1400毫米的降雨量还多200毫米。尽管如此，他们还是通过在合适的地方种植葡萄，以及进行适当的树冠管理来克服了这些问题。
嘉颂酒庄的酿酒哲学是让葡萄酒说话。克里斯蒂安说酒庄有“5个没有”：葡萄园内没有化学物品；没有过熟的葡萄；没有过度采摘；没有过度使用橡木桶的葡萄酒；没有过度酿酒。酒庄使用混凝土罐、大桶以及没有烘烤过的木桶，以确保这片土地的风味不会明珠蒙尘。
巴拉斯托是一款由丹娜（40%-50%）、品丽珠、小味儿多和马瑟兰组成的混酿葡萄酒。2015年份和2016年份的比例略有不同，2017年份则是用梅洛代替了小味儿多。2017年，嘉颂酒庄在波尔多、伦敦和Vinexpo展会上推出首款巴拉斯托葡萄酒时，就得到了国际酒评家的大力支持和认可。这3个年份都各有优点，我们需要挑选出自己最喜欢的一款。我的选择是2016年份，这款葡萄酒新鲜并且有很好的结构感。但是克里斯蒂安却出人意料地选择了2018年份，这款酒甚至还没有进行混酿！他认为这款还是单一品种的葡萄酒已经让人很满意了。好吧，我们要等明年才能做出裁决。
除了巴拉斯托外，嘉颂酒庄还生产多款葡萄酒，包括起泡酒、白葡萄酒、桃红葡萄酒、红葡萄酒，甚至还有晚收甜酒。你可以通过由西往东酒业购买相应酒款。
Uruguay may be a small country with some 3.5 million people， the majority is descendants from the European immigrants in the 19th century who brought with them grape varieties. Not surprisingly， most Uruguayan wine is consumed in domestic market， and as a matter of fact， they consumed the most wine per capita outside Europe！
With such history and background， I believe Uruguayan wine must achieve a certain quality standard and was eager to try Garzón wine. The winery’s managing director， Christian Wylie was in town recently to introduce the latest Balasto vintage 2017. Balasto is Garzón’s flagship wine and we were treated a vertical tasting of all its vintages： 2015， 2016 and 2017.
Balasto means granitic soil in Spanish. The granite at Garzón， the oldest in the world， eroded through millions of years of geological process to become ballast soil that provides excellent drainage and minerals to the vines that grow on it. Alberto Antonini， Garzón winemaking consultant， said the soil gives wine energy and tension. The location， at 160m above sea level and only 18 km from the Atlantic coast， is blessed by the Atlantic breeze that cools down the day time temperature allowing the grapes to ripen slowly to develop the flavours and retain natural acidity. The vineyard is made up from more than 1，000 blocks that are picked and vinified separately to maintain their own identity. Winemaking is never without challenges. Christian said the biggest one by far is the shortage of skilled labour. Closest to Garzón are seaside towns Punta del Este， La Barra and Jose Ignacio where people have little experience in working with land. The second one is rainfall， which is 200mm more than Bordeaux at 1，400mm per year. Even so， they overcome them by planting varieties in the right places and with suitable canopy management.
The philosophy of winemaking at Garzón is to let the wine speaks. Christian said there are 5 Nos： No chemicals in vineyards； No overripe grapes； No over-extraction at winery； No over-oak of wine； and No overwinemaking. The winery uses concrete tank， big barrels and casks with no toast to make sure the sense of place is not hidden.
Balasto is a blend of Tannat （40-50%）， Cabernet Franc， Petit Verdot and Marselan. The 2015 and 2016 have slightly different ratio while the 2017 vintage replaced Petit Verdot with Merlot. The maiden vintage was launched in Bordeaux， London and Vinexpo in 2017 with much fanfare and approval from international wine critics. All three vintages have their own merits and we were asked to pick our favourites. I prefer the 2016 vintage which is fresh and has a nice structure but Christian surprised us by picking 2018 which is not even blended yet！ He said the individual component is just amazing. Well， we have to wait until next year to give the verdict.
In addition to Balasto， Garzón also makes a wide range of wine from sparkling to white and rosé to red and even late harvest. The wines are available from EMW Fine Wines.
Not many wine consumers are aware that Uruguay is a wine producing country. In fact， it is the fourth largest wine producer in South America. Although its production is only around 4% of the entire continent， it is impressive when you consider how small Uruguay is comparing to its neighbours Argentina and Brazil.
乌拉圭是一个人口约350万的“小国家”，大多数居民是19世纪欧洲移民的后裔，正是他们带来了酿酒葡萄。毫无疑问，大部分乌拉圭葡萄酒的消费市场是在国内。事实上，乌拉圭的人均葡萄酒消费是除欧洲以外最多的国家。
在这样的历史和背景下，我相信乌拉圭葡萄酒一定有相应的质量标准，我也很渴望试试看嘉颂酒庄（Bodega Garzón）的葡萄酒。酒庄总经理克里斯蒂安·怀利近日来到城中推介巴拉斯托系列最新的2017年份葡萄酒。巴拉斯托（Balasto）是嘉颂酒庄的旗舰酒款，我们对该系列2015、2016以及2017年份做了一场垂直品鉴会。
Balasto在西班牙语里的意思是花岗岩土壤。嘉颂酒庄的土壤就是世界上最古老的花岗岩土壤，经过数百万年的地质变化过程后被侵蚀成为碎石土，可以为生长在其上的葡萄藤提供极好的排水性和矿物质。嘉颂酒庄的酿酒顾问阿尔贝托·安东尼说：这种土壤可以赋予葡萄酒能量和张力。酒庄葡萄园的海拔160米，距离大西洋海岸仅18公里，受大西洋微风的影响，园区内白天温度低，葡萄成熟速度缓慢，使风味可以得以很好的发展并保持自然的酸度。这个葡萄园由1000多个地块组成，会分开进行采摘和酿造，以保持各自的特色。
酿酒从来都是充满挑战的。克里斯蒂安说：到目前为止最大的问题就是熟练劳动力短缺。距离嘉颂酒庄最近的是海滨城市埃斯特角（Punta del Este），拉巴拉（La Barra）和何塞伊格纳西奥（Jose Ignacio），这几个地方的人们很少有耕作土地的经验。第二大问题是降雨，这里比波尔多每年1400毫米的降雨量还多200毫米。尽管如此，他们还是通过在合适的地方种植葡萄，以及进行适当的树冠管理来克服了这些问题。
嘉颂酒庄的酿酒哲学是让葡萄酒说话。克里斯蒂安说酒庄有“5个没有”：葡萄园内没有化学物品；没有过熟的葡萄；没有过度采摘；没有过度使用橡木桶的葡萄酒；没有过度酿酒。酒庄使用混凝土罐、大桶以及没有烘烤过的木桶，以确保这片土地的风味不会明珠蒙尘。
巴拉斯托是一款由丹娜（40%-50%）、品丽珠、小味儿多和马瑟兰组成的混酿葡萄酒。2015年份和2016年份的比例略有不同，2017年份则是用梅洛代替了小味儿多。2017年，嘉颂酒庄在波尔多、伦敦和Vinexpo展会上推出首款巴拉斯托葡萄酒时，就得到了国际酒评家的大力支持和认可。这3个年份都各有优点，我们需要挑选出自己最喜欢的一款。我的选择是2016年份，这款葡萄酒新鲜并且有很好的结构感。但是克里斯蒂安却出人意料地选择了2018年份，这款酒甚至还没有进行混酿！他认为这款还是单一品种的葡萄酒已经让人很满意了。好吧，我们要等明年才能做出裁决。
除了巴拉斯托外，嘉颂酒庄还生产多款葡萄酒，包括起泡酒、白葡萄酒、桃红葡萄酒、红葡萄酒，甚至还有晚收甜酒。你可以通过由西往东酒业购买相应酒款。
Uruguay may be a small country with some 3.5 million people， the majority is descendants from the European immigrants in the 19th century who brought with them grape varieties. Not surprisingly， most Uruguayan wine is consumed in domestic market， and as a matter of fact， they consumed the most wine per capita outside Europe！
With such history and background， I believe Uruguayan wine must achieve a certain quality standard and was eager to try Garzón wine. The winery’s managing director， Christian Wylie was in town recently to introduce the latest Balasto vintage 2017. Balasto is Garzón’s flagship wine and we were treated a vertical tasting of all its vintages： 2015， 2016 and 2017.
Balasto means granitic soil in Spanish. The granite at Garzón， the oldest in the world， eroded through millions of years of geological process to become ballast soil that provides excellent drainage and minerals to the vines that grow on it. Alberto Antonini， Garzón winemaking consultant， said the soil gives wine energy and tension. The location， at 160m above sea level and only 18 km from the Atlantic coast， is blessed by the Atlantic breeze that cools down the day time temperature allowing the grapes to ripen slowly to develop the flavours and retain natural acidity. The vineyard is made up from more than 1，000 blocks that are picked and vinified separately to maintain their own identity. Winemaking is never without challenges. Christian said the biggest one by far is the shortage of skilled labour. Closest to Garzón are seaside towns Punta del Este， La Barra and Jose Ignacio where people have little experience in working with land. The second one is rainfall， which is 200mm more than Bordeaux at 1，400mm per year. Even so， they overcome them by planting varieties in the right places and with suitable canopy management.
The philosophy of winemaking at Garzón is to let the wine speaks. Christian said there are 5 Nos： No chemicals in vineyards； No overripe grapes； No over-extraction at winery； No over-oak of wine； and No overwinemaking. The winery uses concrete tank， big barrels and casks with no toast to make sure the sense of place is not hidden.
Balasto is a blend of Tannat （40-50%）， Cabernet Franc， Petit Verdot and Marselan. The 2015 and 2016 have slightly different ratio while the 2017 vintage replaced Petit Verdot with Merlot. The maiden vintage was launched in Bordeaux， London and Vinexpo in 2017 with much fanfare and approval from international wine critics. All three vintages have their own merits and we were asked to pick our favourites. I prefer the 2016 vintage which is fresh and has a nice structure but Christian surprised us by picking 2018 which is not even blended yet！ He said the individual component is just amazing. Well， we have to wait until next year to give the verdict.
In addition to Balasto， Garzón also makes a wide range of wine from sparkling to white and rosé to red and even late harvest. The wines are available from EMW Fine Wines.