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本文通过研究《奢侈与时尚期刊》来分析18世纪德国市民阶级的自我塑造。它宣扬奢侈品消费加速了经济与社会的发展,也为文化进步和国家民族富裕提供了动力。它主要关注私生活里的文化与社会自身的构建,并帮助市民阶级进行自我塑造且与其他阶级进行区分。它还阐述了时尚与奢侈品消费的重要性与必要性,并驳斥了神学与道学将时尚视为虚荣及道德缺陷的偏见。它认为作为文化差异的一部分,服装特色的区分成为一种衡量人民与国家成熟与否的标尺。时尚发挥了视觉艺术的功能,甚至于也是一种行为艺术。此外,时尚还与身体复杂地联系在一起,两者缺一不可。
This article analyzes the self-shaping of the German civic class in the 18th century through the study of “luxury and fashion journals.” It preaches that the consumption of luxury goods has accelerated economic and social development and also provided the impetus for cultural progress and national wealth. It focuses primarily on the culture of private life and the building of society itself, and helps the civic classes to shape themselves and distinguish them from other classes. It also illustrates the importance and necessity of fashion and luxury spending and rejects the prejudice that theology and Taoism regard fashion as vanity and moral flaws. It considers the distinctiveness of clothing as a measure of the maturity of peoples and nations as part of cultural differences. Fashion has played a visual arts function, and even is also a performance art. In addition, fashion is also complicated with the body together, both indispensable.