河豚:生死边缘的诱惑

来源 :私人飞机 | 被引量 : 0次 | 上传用户:sunmoon
下载到本地 , 更方便阅读
声明 : 本文档内容版权归属内容提供方 , 如果您对本文有版权争议 , 可与客服联系进行内容授权或下架
论文部分内容阅读
  “萎蒿满地芦芽短,正是河豚欲上时。”阳春三月,品尝一下鲜美的河豚,不失为人间极品的享受。可是,传说中河豚有毒,民间甚至有“拼死吃河豚”的说法。如此,你还敢吃河豚吗?
  “By water side short reeds bud and wild flowers teem; It is just time for the globefish to swim upstream”. Spring is the best season to taste the fresh and delicate globefish. Globefish can be poisonous if not prepared properly, just as the folk saying goes, you have to "risk death to eat globefish". Dare you eat it?
  人生总有很多不完美,例如海棠无香、《红楼梦》未完、河豚有毒……这样不完美的事物往往也最让人日思夜想,甚至以身涉险。河豚便是最典型的例子,从古到今,无论王公贵族,还是平民百姓,每年都有因为贪吃河豚中毒而死的人,但河豚的美味总是吸引着无数人前赴后继。
  想要吃到肥美的河豚并非难事,每年清明前后,河豚从大海溯至江河产卵之时就是最佳时节。一道道精美的河豚被摆上各种高档宴会的餐桌,之后各种秘方流传于民间。现在的清蒸、白烩、软熘、白汁、红烧等做法,也是源于彼时的手艺。
  要吃河豚,首先要将其体内的毒素去除干净。比起野生河豚,人工河豚通过对养殖环境的管理和投放人工饵料等环节的控制,使所养殖的河豚无法接触到可以使之产生毒素的物质,体内毒素也已经不再如从前那般可怕。
  现在做河豚都有非常严格的规定:挖眼睛甚至将鱼头去除、剥皮、掏内脏(掏的时候还不能碰破上面的薄膜),再一一分类放到干净的容器里;最后将鱼肉反复漂洗,直到看不见一丝血痕为止。要求严格的餐馆还要求下锅烹烧之前把所有废弃物一一清点,如果少了任何一样都不允许厨师烧鱼。如今,做河豚的大厨们都拥有河豚鱼烹饪大师资格证,吃河豚的危险性大大降低,“勇者吃河豚”也逐步成为了历史。
  日本——河豚的王国
  凭借着每年吃掉上万吨河豚的数量,以及仅东京就有1500家专门做河豚的料理店,日本当之无愧地成为世界上最盛行吃河豚的国家。河豚也以自己的美味和形态上的创造性成为高端料理中不可错过的食材。但有趣的是,河豚却是天皇及其家眷唯一不能吃的合法食品。
  从吃河豚的发源来说,日本下关和大阪都在历史上扮演着重要的角色。最早在江户时代,大阪就有了河豚鱼料理的原型——河豚汤。而下关因为临近温暖的海域,因此他们最开始就以河豚刺身为主。不同部位的下刀方式、怎样最大限度地取得鱼片、独特口味的秘制酱料都已经被研究了几百年。两地对河豚的重量要求也不一样,大阪的河豚火锅所使用的鱼大概是一斤八两左右,这样更耐煮,而且肉汤也会浓稠一些;而做刺身的鱼重量大概是一斤半左右,这样的鱼肥瘦更为合适,肉质也更为鲜美。
  极致的食用方法
  日本人吃河豚的方式可以说到了极致。除了不能吃的血液、卵巢、肾脏、鳃和鱼眼之外,从鱼肉、鱼骨、鱼子、鱼脑,到带有毒素的鱼皮、鱼肝都吃。有的餐厅还可以根据客户的需求专门提供留有微毒的河豚鱼肝,食者口腔有一种略微的酥麻感的同时,心里也有着生与死的不断刺激。最为普通的河豚馆全餐细数下来,菜色也超过10种以上。手法兼顾,有凉拌、刺身、油炸、煮、烤、熏和火锅等多种方式。
  河豚不同部位的肉如何利用很有讲究。刺身使用的是鱼腹、鱼背、鱼身的肉,这些肉并不是切下来直接食用。为了去掉多余的水分,保证有最好的口味,大多选用做和服内衬的布料将河豚鱼肉一块块裹好,放置一天左右待水分基本被吸干之后才能片做刺身。经过处理的鱼肉,会更加细嫩,造型也更为透亮。而鱼刺和附着在上面的肉则会以特制的酱料腌制后挂上特别的骨粉做成炸鱼骨,这样炸成的鱼骨与天妇罗相比会更加鲜美而脆香。
  Life is filled with imperfections: begonia is not fragrant, the Dream of the Red Chamber is unfinished, and globefish is poisonous. It is such imperfection that lingers in our minds and lures us to take risks. Globefish is one typical example. From ancient times to date, there is no lack of people, royal or ordinary, rich or poor, die of trying globefish every year. But globefish still attracts countless daring gourmets.
  It is not difficult to come by globefish. Each year around the Tomb Sweeping Festival (in late March or early April), globefish swims upstream from the sea to the rivers to lay eggs. Globefish cooked in various styles appeared first on imperial banquets before the recipes spread to the masses. Today’s various cooking methods, including steam, stew, fry, boil, or braise, have their origins date back to the ancient times.   To eat globefish, you need to first remove its toxin. Through environment control and formula diet, today’s globefish farms are able to reduce toxin level to national safety standard.
  A strict protocol has been kept for cooking globefish: take out eyes or cut off the entire head, skin the fish, remove innards without cutting the skin, place each part into a separate container, and wash its edible parts until no blood is left over. More stringent hotels will double check every part of the globefish before cooking. If any part was missing, the entire fish would be thrown away. Globefish chefs today are all certified so eating globefish is no longer a game for the brave.
  Japan- the globefish kingdom
  With over 10,000 tons of globefish consumed each year, Japan is no doubt the largest consumer of globefish. Globefish has entered the menu of upscale and common restaurants alike. In Tokyo alone there are over 1,500 globefish restaurants. But interestingly, globefish, pronounced as fugu in Japanese, is the only banned food for the Japanese royal family.
  In Japan, globefish eating originated in Shimonoseki and Osak. In Osaka, globefish cuisine appeared as early as in the 17th century. Shimonoseki, with its proximity to the warm sea, is the birthplace of globefish sashimi, where the make of the fish and sauce recipe has been developed for hundreds of years. The two cities use globefish of different sizes for their respective cuisine. Osaka hotpot uses globefish around 900g which can be cooked longer and make a richer soup, whereas sashimi uses globefish about 500g to ensure it is fresher and more savory.
  Extreme ways of eating globefish
  The Japanese has developed globefish eating to the extremes. Apart from the inedible blood, ovary, kidney, gill, and eyes, all other parts of the fish, including its flesh, bone, egg, brain, and even its toxic skin and liver, can be cooked in various ways. Some restaurants even reserve globefish liver for customers who want to experience a slight numb taste and the thrill of facing death. A most ordinary globefish restaurant could offer over 10 kinds of globefish dishes, including iced, sashimi, fried, boiled, roasted, smoked, and hot pot.
  Different parts of the globefish should be prepared differently. Sashimi uses fresh on the belly, back and trunk. To get the best taste, the sliced fish will be rolled up in cloth that are used for kimono lining to extract its extra water. After a day, the fish will be more transparent and easier to be styled on the plate. The remaining fish bones can be marinated in sauces and covered with bone powders to be fried into a unique Tempura.   视觉的享受
  在吃河豚的时候,最能体现日本料理注重发挥食材本身的味道与禅味共同存在的特点。河豚刺身也是用眼睛来享受的菜,看似简单的刺身实际上是整个河豚的精髓所在。首先,河豚刺身的造型摆设很讲究艺术性。传统摆盘就有菊花、牡丹、仙鹤和乌龟形状。其次,切出来薄如蝉翼到能看到盘子图案的鱼片也并不是越薄越好,既要薄得透明,又要吃起来“Q弹”,十分考验师傅的切工。好的河豚鱼肉吃起来越嚼越香,越嚼越甜,不但口感好也能让人回味。
  哪些饮料和甜品能与河豚搭配?
  天正河鲀料理长王成涛
  对于河豚鱼这种口味清淡并有着自己独特口感的食物来说,太有自己特色或者太有自己口感的饮料和甜品都不合适。我推荐鱼鳍酒和杏仁豆腐,最为常见的简单口味饮料反而能提升河豚的口感。如果饭后能再享用到只有河豚馆才会提供的浇上日本黑糖的冰淇淋,那就是最美好的一天了。如若追寻“正宗”二字,那么必须去下关和大阪品尝不同的河豚料理,不然就不能算是一个真正的美食家。
  What beverage and dessert go best with globefish?
  Wang Chentao, Chief Chef of Tianzheng Globefish
  For light flavored food like globefish, the flavor of the accompanying drink or dessert should not be too strong. I recommend hire sake and almond jelly. They are the most ordinary drink and desert but could enhance the flavor of globefish. If you can have an ice cream topped with Japanese black sugar supplied only in a globefish restaurant, that would make your day. But if you want to taste the most authentic globefish, you will have to go to Shimonoseki and Osaka.
  鲜香无国界
  河豚、鲥鱼和鱽鱼自古以来就被并称为“长江三鲜”,地处河豚洄游繁殖天然“良港”的扬州人一直都有吃江鲜、做河豚的传统。在中国解禁河豚销售和食用之后,春季去扬州踏青吃河豚,已成为众多美食爱好者的必选旅程之一。
  如同《葵花宝典》在武林中的地位般,《扬中河豚菜谱》也是一部巅峰之作。这本菜谱里有100多种河豚的做法,从传统的红烧、白煨到现代的刺身、点心,中、日合璧,兼收并蓄八大菜系精华,一举奠定了扬中河豚烹饪的王者地位。与日本从上菜伊始先用眼睛享受河豚宴不同,中国的河豚做法更加讲究“鲜美”二字。无论任何做法都更加强调在河豚入口的一瞬间就以多种复合的鲜香滋味占领口腔和鼻腔,香远益清,口味也不输日本。且具体做法的不同,也能体现出河豚肉质中不同的特色。
  More Savory Than in Japan
  Globefish, shad, and cololabis saira have been known as the “three delis of the Yangtze River”. As a natural harbor for breeding globefish, Yangzhou has a tradition of eating river fish, including globefish. When the ban on globefish eating is lifted, eating globefish in Yangzhou in spring has become a must trip for may gourmets.
  The Yangzhong Globefish Recipe Collection is the epitome of globefish cooking. Collecting over 100 recipes covering traditional and modern methods from both China and Japan, the book establishes Yangzhong as the center of globefish cooking. Unlike Japanese cuisine which emphasis on feasting with eyes, Chinese cuisine focus more on the taste. Whichever cooking style is used, the globefish dishes could provide you a mixture of savory flavors. Different cooking styles could bring out different character of the globefish.
  中式经典——白汁、红烧
  扬州最为经典的河豚的烧法是红烧和白汁,都各自体现了河豚的特色。白汁河豚主要以鸡和大骨熬制的上汤和河豚一起煲滚半小时左右,味道上突出了河豚的肉质爽滑,汤汁浓白似乳。河豚皮经过了高汤的炖制也能熬出更多的胶原蛋白,翻转过来吃在口里香糯软弹又肥美多汁,回味无穷,吃剩下的白汤用来拌过油面再美味不过。
  红烧时需要特别辅以江边秧草(也称草头、金花菜,燕竹笋也可),简单过油之后放在锅里,以上汤和酱料调味炖,最能体现河豚的浓醇和肥美。而以秧草打底的作法可以增加口中的清新度,消解食鱼之后的油腻感。红烧出来的浓郁汤汁与热腾腾的香甜米饭混合在一起,更增添几许诱人香气。   除了红烧和白汁,扬州还有河豚蟹粉包和河豚粉皮汤等利用河豚做的传统菜。这些来源于民间、各具特色的河豚菜肴也都代表了扬州地区的水平。此外,扬州人在生吃河豚片时,盘上常常配着几片紫苏叶,旁边还衬托以萝卜丝、紫苏花等。这些植物并非单纯的装饰,它们既有爽口的作用,也有药用消毒的作用。例如,紫苏属唇形科的植物,其叶、梗、种子都是药材。而紫苏叶在传统汉药里有解除鱼蟹之毒、发散风寒之功效。
  河豚也有简单而独特的吃法
  孔乙己集团出品总监陈庆
  河豚也有简单的吃法,用小火煨着石锅里的红烧河豚,等河豚的肉可以很轻松剥离出来之后把河豚骨剔出,加上两碗白米饭和少许辣酱,就着红烧汤汁、河豚和秧草搅拌在一起再略微焖一会。最后关火把饭盛出来就是非常传统而美味的“扬式泡饭”。要是能忍住了不吃完,最后利用余温而成的锅巴饭更香。
  Chinese Classics -White soup and braised globefish
  The most classic way of making globefish in Yangzhou is braise with soy sauce or white soup. White soup globefish is made by boiling globefish in chicken and bone soup, which produces a milky white soup and smooth fish texture. Cooked in the soup, the fish skin also taste juicy and chewy. The remaining soup can be used to make oil noodle.
  Braised globefish tastes better if complimented by lucerne. It is made by quickly searing it in hot oil and then stewing with soup and sauce. Lucerne placed at the bottom of the stew will add a fresh flavor to the stew and offset the grease. The braised soup could be served with hot rice.
  Apart from white soup and braise, there are other traditional globefish cooking methods such as globefish steamed buns and steamed rice rolls with globefish. In Yangzhou, sliced raw globefish is often served with purple perilla leaves , perilla flowers, or radish shreds to offset grease and remove toxin. In traditional Chinese medicine, the leaf, stem, and seed of perilla can be used as medicine to cure coldness and toxin of fish and crab.
  A simple but unique way to eat globefish
  Chen Qing, Director of Products of Kong Yiji Restaurant
  There is a simple way of enjoying globefish. Braise it with soy sauce on a stone plate with mild heat until the bones can be pulled out easily, pick the bones out, put in 2 bowls of rice and some spicy sauce, mix them up and braise a little longer, and you will have a traditional and delicious Yangzhou style rice. If you could resist the temptation to eat it up all at once, you could keep some rice at the bottom of the plate where the remaining heat will turn into a crispy crust.
其他文献
阿尔萨斯位于法国北部,是法国与德国交界省份,从中世纪开始直到普法战争、一战、二战,这个古老地区几经易手,一直是法、德两国争夺的对象。阿尔萨斯究竟拥有怎样的魅力,让高卢人和日耳曼人都垂涎于此?  或许仅仅一条著名的“葡萄酒之路”便足以回答这个问题。这是孚日山下的一条绵延170公里的公路,沿途除了葡萄园美景,还点缀着不绝于目的古老钟楼、17世纪遗留至今的酒庄建筑。驱车一路向北,当你寻找到自己认为最美的
期刊
一头卷发、英俊帅气的Thomas Flohr正专心聆听电话那头的声音,几乎每周,他都会听远在北京的同事汇报中国市场的情况。自从Thomas Flohr 2004年创建Vistajet公司以来,这位来自瑞士的航空业精英一直专注于无间断、点对点地进行全球覆盖发展战略。2012年3月,Thomas Flohr与北京航空公司结盟,目的是通过后者进入中国市场,扩大在中国的包机业务网络。2012年底,他签订了
期刊
对于成天飞来飞去的商务人士,在机场等待的时间越来越令人发指了。现在机场越修越大,转一次机就像参加一场竞走比赛,加上时差的困扰,停留在机场的时间常常让人觉得疲惫不堪。这时候,如果能在转机间隙、登机之前做一个舒适的SPA,那一切疲倦、肌肉紧绷、凡尘俗世都将烟消云散。相比之下,贵宾厅里的软沙发、小点心简直就弱爆了。  在机场做SPA,其实在很久以前已经是频繁乘坐飞机的商人、旅行者们热衷的一种休闲方式。没
期刊
金丝楠木因金丝闪耀而得名,加之皇室御用,故而给人尊崇贵气的印象。其实与这种习惯性的华贵印象不同,金丝楠在传统文化中具有极强的“书卷气”,是与文化人走得最近的一种珍贵木质。  Gold silk phoebe zhennan got its name from its golden texture and is known as a noble wood as it is traditionally
期刊
享誉全球的威士忌文化圣地尊尼获加尊邸于近日推出首席调配大师吉姆·贝弗里奇(Jim Beveridge)的又一全新力作——尊尼获加私人珍藏系列2016限量版威士忌。该款威士忌臻酿全球限量发售8888瓶,定价5388元/瓶。用于调配私人珍藏2016限量版的苏格兰威士忌原本只为调配大师私藏所用,由调配大师从百余桶尊尼获加甄选窖藏中精心挑选而出,极其珍贵稀有。其中还包含了一小批只用于调配大师个人创作的私有
期刊
他们为什么需要古董相机  从1839年法国工程师达盖尔发明了相机,摄影迅速在全世界流行,成为当时的一种时尚。早年相机诞生之初,摄影是十分复杂的事,人们需要用马车搭载摄影器械走几个街区去拍照,而王公贵族们更是乐意在相机前一动不动地站上几个小时,只为获得足够的曝光时间,为自己留下一张珍贵的影像。  人们对古董相机的收藏最早始于20世纪初,当时美、英、德、法、日等国家便有人在自己家里收藏一定规模的木质古
期刊
芝华士再度找寻良友,携手漫游家(Globe-Trotter)共同推出“芝华士12年漫游家摩登绅士限量礼盒”,通过结合附有历史感的旅行箱元素,为摩登绅士开启全新难忘旅程。  芝华士发现旅行者们乐于通过在行李箱上贴有各地特色的贴纸来记录他们曾游览过的城市胜地。这些贴纸不仅是一种纪念品,更是绅士们视野和阅历的见证。因此,“芝华士12年漫游家摩登绅士限量礼盒”便采用旅行箱上的配件与世界各地具有代表性景点的
期刊
古巴雪茄名声在外,没有人会怀疑这个气候犹如天然保湿罐的国家,出产了全世界最好的雪茄。然而将古巴雪茄看成唯我独尊、非古巴雪茄不抽,这也非资深雪茄客的作为。  以被传颂得神乎其神的高希霸(COHIBA)雪茄为例,许多人提起这个牌子,都会肃然起敬,因为这是卡斯特罗这位雪茄王国最高统治者从不离手的雪茄。可资深雪茄客们明白,世界各地雪茄客手中的高希霸只不过是一个品牌,和卡斯特罗每天吞云吐雾的特供产品绝非一回
期刊
上世纪80年代后期,随着中国传统文化的复兴,美术界一批有识之士力倡传统笔墨。徐福山以其对中国书画的深层理解与感受,并持“文化自觉论”,在美术界高倡“中体西用”之说,且身体力行,写诗、作画、习书,走诗书画相融的艺术之路,此其高怀雅识也。中国绘画学习西方已百余年,今天或已具转变之机,徐福山的探索对中国美术未来发展是有益的。  雄鹰在林睨天下  “福山的画走的是传统文人画的路子,其绘画主要以大写意花鸟为
期刊
是否为你的公务机选择了一个合适的“国籍”,会直接关系到你购买、维护公务机的成本,以及你使用公务机的便捷性。  根据国际民用航空公约规定,每一架飞机和每一个人一样,都必须有一个“国籍”。按行话说,它需要在某一个国家注册。一个人是否入外籍,也许会牵扯到民族感情问题。一架飞机是否入“外籍”,所涉及的却是非常实际的利益。例如,你的飞机加入哪个“国籍”能帮你省下上千万美元的税款?加入哪个“国籍”每年能为你节
期刊