葡萄美酒伴花香——塔斯马尼亚的惬意之旅

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  You know it’s time to go home when you can’t face eating or drinking anymore.
  I reached that stage by the end of my visit to the northeast corner of Australia’s most southern state after being 1)wined and dined in style.
  As the Tasmanians say, you can wine your way around this island. Its 2)burgeoning wine sector has seven distinct growing areas with many growers providing 3)cellar door tastings, and there’s an abundance of fresh local food on offer from producers and at farmers markets.
  I based myself in Launceston, where the South and North Esk rivers meet to form the wider Tamar River. Like Wellington and Auckland, Launceston has more than a light-hearted 4)rivalry going on with the state’s biggest city, Hobart, to the south.
  My plan was to do the Tamar Valley wine route and cherry-pick parts of the Cradle to Coast Tasting Trail.
  The Tamar Valley is Tasmania’s largest wine-producing area, best known for cool-climate wines such as sparkling, 5)aromatic whites and 6)pinot noir.
  The well-marked route 7)encompasses both sides of the Tamar River and south of Launceston. While the 442 metre-long Batman Bridge spanning the Tamar to the north means you can do a round trip, you really need more than one day to do the route justice.
  Our first wine-tasting on the northeast side was at Jansz Tasmania, the only Tasmanian specialist solely devoted to sparkling winemaking.
  Wine writers will laugh at my discomfort with spitting instead of sipping during a tasting, but it seems such a waste of good wine to see it dribbling down the 8)spittoons. Be aware, you can get lighthearted early in the day if you don’t. It wasn’t unpleasant.


  Eating or drinking lavender may seem odd to some, but the Bridestowe Lavender Estate at Nabowla offers more than just a 9)vista of sweeping fields of purple flowers. It is one of the world’s largest commercial lavender farms, and the high quality flowers are primarily used as oil for perfumery.
  It took its Sydney-based owners Robert Ravens and his wife, Jennifer, a few years to turn around the loss-making estate through a relentless marketing strategy focused on Asia. Its renowned lavender heat pack bears—sold for A$55 each—have proved a big hit with Asian tourists since a Chinese pop star 10)proclaimed her love for them on social media.
  The business is based around more than just one bear—there’s a huge range of lavender products on offer in the shop and cafe. I had refreshing lavender tea but didn’t buy a bear (apparently 11)Kiwis and Tasmanians never do).   While in the area we headed to the hills to meet the kids—some 200 or so goats at the Yondover Farmhouse Cheesery at Tunnel. It was established four years ago by former West Australians Mike and Gina Butler who sell 14 different cheeses, fresh milk and plain yoghurt. We sampled a selection of their award-winning cheeses out on the deck with a view over the rolling valleys below.
  On the west side of Tamar, the first winery we visited also turned out to be my favourite that day—Moores Hill at Sidmouth. This family-owned boutique winery specialises in estate grown single vineyard wines and co-owner Fiona Weller was 12)cock-a-hoop the day of our tasting as their 2012 pinot noir had just won gold at the 2014 Tasmanian Wine Show. I again drank instead of spat, despite the early hour.
  The Cradle to Coast Tasting Trail is a relatively new tasting route based more on food than wine.


  From the 13)plethora of food and wine producers to visit on this trail we opted for The Honey Farm in Chudleigh. It makes over 50 different kinds of honey and the shop was packed with Asian tourists spending up large. I bought a jar without realising you can’t bring Tasmanian honey back to New Zealand. The shop has free tastings of all its honey and other products—my pick was the hazelnut honey 14)nougat.
  Try timing a trip to Launceston to coincide with Harvest Launceston, a weekly farmers’ market selling food and 15)beverages grown and produced only in Tasmania. Just 18 months old, it’s already proving a roaring success.
  When we 16)snaffled the last space in the adjoining car park, a local offered us his parking ticket which had a fair amount of time left on it. That’s community for you.
  It’s easy to overeat at this market. There’s everything from berries to burgers to beetroot to beef.
  As we leave, musicians started tuning up, and a number of regulars were happily 17)ensconced in seats under a 18)marquee in the centre of the market, cups of freshroasted coffee in hand and food purchases at their feet.
  Like most places, if you want to know where to eat and drink, follow the locals.
  佳肴美酒当前已然无法消受,当你吃撑到那样的地步,你就知道自己该回家了。
  在澳大利亚最南部州东北角的旅程快结束时,一番别具特色的盛情款待后,我就达到如此境界了。
  就像塔斯马尼亚人所说的,你可以在这座岛上一路喝过去。它那蓬勃发展的葡萄酒业涵盖七大不同的种植区,许多种植者都打开窖门让人品尝,而且生产商和农贸市场还提供了丰富的本地新鲜美食。
  我以朗塞斯顿为基地,南北爱斯克河在此交汇成宽广的塔马河。就像新西兰城市惠灵顿与奥克兰的关系一样,朗塞斯顿与坐落于南部的本州最大城市霍巴特之间的竞争之势亦并非云淡风轻。   我的计划就是踏遍塔马谷的葡萄酒之路,直到摇篮山至海岸美食路线上的樱桃摘采地。
  塔马谷是塔斯马尼亚最大的葡萄酒产区,以盛产寒凉气候葡萄酒而闻名于世,如气泡酒、芳香白葡萄酒和黑皮诺葡萄酒。
  这条标识清晰的路线两侧夹在塔马河和南朗塞斯顿之间。442米长的巴特曼大桥从南到北横跨塔马河,也就意味着你可以沿着河走个来回,但要好好走完这段路只花一天时间是肯定不够的。
  我们在东北部品酒的第一站是在简斯·塔斯马尼亚酒庄——塔斯马尼亚唯一专门致力于气泡酒生产的酿酒专家。
  评酒作家会嘲笑我在品酒时不愿吐出口中佳酿而是小口啜饮,但眼见着这样的好酒流入痰盂感觉似乎真是一种浪费。小心点,如果不把酒吐出来的话,一大早你就会变得嬉皮笑脸的。这也不怎么讨人嫌。
  对某些人来说,吃或者喝薰衣草可能显得很怪异,但纳宝拉的布莱德斯托薰衣草庄园的一大片无边无际的紫色花田可不是仅供观赏。它还是世界上最大的商业薰衣草场之一,其优质的花朵主要被用作精油供香水企业使用。
  来自于悉尼的农场主罗伯特·拉文斯和妻子詹尼弗花费数年时间,以其针对亚洲的持续不断的市场营销策略,才重振了这片不断亏损的庄园。其颇具盛名的薰衣草暖袋小熊——每只售价55澳元——自从一位中国流行明星在社交媒体宣称对它们喜爱有加后,在亚洲游客中便风靡一时。
  这里的业务并不只是建立在一只小熊的身上——在商店和咖啡店里还有着种类繁多的薰衣草制品。我买了薰衣草提神茶,没买小熊(很显然新西兰人和塔斯马尼亚人都从来不买)。
  在那片地区时,我们去往小山区与“孩子们”相会——隧道区的扬多佛尔山农场奶酪厂里的200来头山羊。这间奶酪厂于四年前由前西澳洲人迈克和吉娜·巴特勒建造起来,出售14种不同的奶酪、鲜牛奶和原味酸奶。我们坐在户外的木质平台上,脚下是延绵起伏的山谷群,品尝他们精选的得过各种奖项的奶酪。
  在塔马河的西边,我们探访的第一家酒庄也是我当天最喜欢的一家——锡德茅斯的摩尔希尔庄园。这家家族持有的精品酒庄专注于庄园自产的单一品种葡萄酒。在我们品酒那天,庄园的老板之一菲奥娜·韦勒可谓志得意满,因为他们2012年产的黑皮诺酒刚刚赢得了2014年塔斯马尼亚葡萄酒展的金奖。尽管天色尚早,我又一次吞下而非吐出了那些美酒。
  相对而言,摇篮山至海岸美食路线则是一条新的品尝路线,尝得更多的是美食而非美酒。
  在这条路线上能够探访到的为数众多的美食和美酒生产商之中,我们挑选了恰德雷的蜂蜜农场。这里生产超过50种不同种类的蜂蜜,商店里挤满了大手笔购物的亚洲游客。我买了一罐蜂蜜,却没意识到不能把塔斯马尼亚蜂蜜带回新西兰。在这家商店里能够免费随意品尝其出产的所有蜂蜜和其他产品——我的选择是榛仁蜂蜜牛轧糖。
  试着安排时间在朗塞斯顿丰收集市开张时去游览该地吧。这个每周一次的农贸市场出售只在塔斯马尼亚种植和生产的食物和饮品。仅仅开张了18个月,其取得的成功早已风头无两。
  当我们还在邻近的停车场“窃取”最后一个停车位时,一位当地人把他的停车票送给了我们,票上还余下了相当多的时间。这便是对你的情谊。
  在这个集市上很容易就吃多了。这里从浆果到汉堡到甜菜根到牛肉,应有尽有。
  在我们离开时,音乐家们开始弹奏音乐,许多常客开心地安坐在集市正中的大帐篷下,手里捧着一杯杯新鲜烤焙的咖啡,脚边是刚买的食物。
  就像大多数地方一样,如果你想要了解美食和美酒,就跟着当地人走吧。

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