我是在隔了二十年的时光后再次来到呼兰的。从哈尔滨到呼兰,这次不用坐火车了,笔直的公路穿过平原,不到一小时,车就停在了呼兰城内萧红故居的门前。院里有一尊白色的萧红坐像,一手托腮,凝神思索的样子,那眼神深邃,也坦荡。故居的五间正房是1985年修复的,里面陈列着各种版本的萧红著作、能搜集到的萧红照片和她少年时用过的物品。照例有解说员在介绍萧红的生平,我却偏要自己去看那些物品和文字,自己去嗅当年的气息。正房有门通向后园,从幽暗的 I came to Hulan again after two decades. From Harbin to Hulan, this time do not have to take a train, straight through the plains road, less than an hour, the car stopped in front of Hulan Hsiao former residence in the city. The yard has a white Xiao Hong sitting, one hand care gills, look like a pondering, that look deep, magnanimous. The five main houses of the former residence were restored in 1985 with various versions of Xiao Hong’s writings and Xiao Hong photos and articles she had used as a teenager. As usual, there is a narrator in the introduction of Xiao Hong’s life, but I prefer to look at those items and text, to sniff their own atmosphere. The main room has a door leading to the back garden, from darkness