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本文以凉山彝族宗教仪式中所使用的诓鬼的烧肉和新兴的用于宴客的烧烤为个案,探讨彝族饮食文化的变迁过程。彝族文化忌讳在户外烧肉散发出焦味,因为彝族人相信烧肉的焦味会引来鬼,轻者致人生病,重者会把人的灵魂摄去,使人死亡。彝族饮食文化的变迁过程包括同质化和异质化两种形式。由于彝汉族群互动和文化交流的加强,内地汉区的烧烤文化被引入凉山彝区,形成颇有特色的“彝族烧烤”。这个过程是彝汉文化的同质化过程。从彝族文化角度来看,本来仅在宗教仪式上用于诓鬼的烧肉,其形式通过文化再生产,被重新阐释为“彝族烧烤”用于宴客。这个过程是彝族文化异质化的过程。传统诓鬼的烧肉的象征性与宴客的烧烤的现代性之间发生了文化冲突。从诓鬼的烧肉到宴客的烧烤的变化过程所反映的是彝族饮食文化的变迁,体现了美国人类学家阿尔君·阿帕杜莱所说的“消散的现代性”。
This paper discusses the process of the Yi nationality’s dietary culture with the grilled meat of the ghost in Liangshan Yi religious ceremony and the emerging barbecue for the banquet. Yi culture taboo in the outdoor burning meat exudes a scorched flavor, because the Yi people believe that the burning of the burnt taste will lead to ghosts, light to cause illness, severe cases will take the souls of others, killing people. The process of the Yi nationality’s food culture changes includes homogenization and heterogeneity. As a result of the Yi-Han ethnic interaction and cultural exchanges, the barbecue culture in the Han area of the Mainland was introduced into the Liangshan Yi area, forming a rather characteristic “Yi BBQ.” This process is the homogenization process of Yi-Han culture. From the perspective of Yi culture, the meat that was originally used only for religious ghosts in grubs was re-interpreted as “Yi BBQ” for banquet purposes through cultural reproduction. This process is the process of heterogeneity of Yi culture. Cultural clashes have occurred between the symbolism of the traditional ghost’s roast pork and the modernity of the banquet’s barbecue. The process of change from grilled pork to grilled banquet reflects the changes in the diet culture of the Yi people and reflects the “dissipated modernity” described by the American anthropologist Arjun Appapoli.