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风浪的计算和预报,是海洋工程设计,施工和运行管理的重要依据。在短缺乃至没有海洋水文观测资料的地区,往往只能依据气象资料来推算风浪尺度,它是通过确定风场要素,建立风场要素与波浪要素之间的关系等步骤来进行的。各国学者根据能量平衡观点,通过实测资料分析,建立了不同形式的预报公式,迄今已达数十种之多。 在各种预报公式中,对于本次风浪出现前海面上已经存在的所谓前期风浪h的处理,将
The calculation and prediction of storms are important bases for the design, construction and operation management of marine engineering. In areas where hydrological observation data are scarce or even lacking, weather scales can only be calculated based on meteorological data. These are determined by determining the elements of the wind field and establishing the relationship between the elements of the wind field and the wave elements. According to the viewpoint of energy balance, scholars of various countries have established dozens of different forecast formulas through the analysis of measured data. In all kinds of forecast formulas, for the treatment of the so-called pre-stormy waves already existing on the sea before the storm occurs,