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徽菜源远流长，是名扬海内外的中国八大菜系之一，它朴素实惠，地方特色浓郁，有很高的文化品位。
2005年9月，中国烹饪协会经过专家组考察论证，将徽州文化的主要发祥地绩溪定为“中国徽菜之乡”，因而使得这个处于吴头楚尾、自古“邑小士多”的人杰宝地和黄山脚下山清水秀的礼仪之邦，更增添了诱人魅力。
徽菜发源“赛琼碗”
徽菜是一种来自民间最古老的菜肴，那些腌的、臭的、苦的以及那些让外地人瞠目结舌的野菜、山珍，通过徽文化的熏陶和绩溪人的用心包装和泡制，便成了美食家桌上的回味无穷的“佳肴”。据《绩溪县志》记载，每年绩溪登源河一带汪氏大姓，为祭祀始祖都要举行“花朝会”，汪姓民众从农历正月十八至二月二十五日，轮流在宗祠、村庙举行闹花灯、敲锣鼓、放鞭炮、抬会猪、摆供献、烧香祭拜等活动，其中，最吸引人的当是来自一家一户祭神“供献”。由于年年举办这样的盛会，供品愈摆愈多，规模越办越大，摆供献的程序逐渐有了个文雅好听的名词“赛琼碗”。在“赛琼碗”活动中，大家在案桌上除了摆放粗如断柱的大红神烛、壮如牯牛的会猪和清茶、美酒、果点外，更多的是用名贵瓷盘、瓷碗盛装各种山珍野味和由农家土产精制的象征“五谷丰登”、“吉祥如意”、“鸿福无边”、“福寿绵长”的各色美味。
为使自己制作的供品菜肴比别人的更加美观、夺目，虔诚的村民充分利用冬笋的嫩黄、豆腐的玉白、香菇的熟褐、蕨菜的青紫、辣椒的艳红和品的金黄，烹制出许多先前没有做过的多彩菜肴来。天长日久，做这些佳肴的绩溪人逐渐形成了对菜肴的“重色”观念。史料称，规模最大的祭祀活动，案桌上最多排放多达288盘(碗)供献。这些表达百姓对神灵顶礼膜拜而精心制作的一盘盘珍馐供品，宛如一件件艺术杰作。可以想象，这样的“赛琼碗”，既是酬神活动，也必然成为民间美味佳肴博览会。这是一种壮观而又具有民间韵味的文化现象!历经数百年沧桑，绩溪人不断向山水索取精华，不断别出心裁提高这种乡间土菜的品位，并慢慢地形成了相对稳定的风格，这就是徽菜之源!
徽馆做出大市场
绩溪人的庙祭活动，使土菜迈出了从一家一户走向公共场合的第一步，并迅速成为“徽菜”菜谱定型的基础和前奏。年复一年，一些善于制作这些祭祀菜肴的能手便成了身怀绝技的烹饪大师，成了他们外出经商赚钱的资本。
明末清初，绩溪人制作这些菜肴的菜馆和面馆开业于本埠徽州府(歙县和屯溪一带)，后来不断辗转迁徙，一支经宣城、郎溪、广德至浙江孝丰、安吉一带；一支由新安江进入杭州、嘉兴、湖州各重镇。当时，徽厨操营的菜馆和面馆，铺面不大，店号也不多，后来在长江中下游一带乃至西南形成规模、气候，成为徽籍旅外经济一大产业，那还是在清代中叶之后。
绩溪旅外徽馆业在清代咸丰初到1949年间的近一个世纪中最为兴旺。清代咸丰、同治间，旅外徽厨随着徽州的笔、墨、纸、砚、茶等各业商人进入杭、嘉、湖、苏、沪、宁一带的城镇码头，清末扩展到武汉三镇，抗战间开拓至川、湘、桂、黔、云，1949年后一部分又转迁至豫、晋、甘、辽等省市镇。他们在上海开设了鸿运楼、大中华、大富贵、大中国、大新楼、大嘉福等120余家菜馆；武汉有60家；南京有21家；衡阳、柳州至昆明一线13个市、县有徽菜馆41家。1959年毛主席视察武汉时，兴致勃勃品尝过绩溪厨师烧的“武昌鱼”，写下了著名的《水调歌头·游泳》诗篇。据史料载，清乾隆五十五年(1790)徽班晋京，绩溪烹饪业也随之北上，开始进入京都，这种“徽馆”后来犹如唱响的山歌，成为徽州人旅外菜馆业的统称，徽菜也终于由此推向全国。
乾隆赐名“一品锅”
徽菜中具有代表性的佳作有腌鲜鳜鱼、杨梅圆子、清炖马蹄鳖，清炖石鸡、虎皮毛豆腐、咸肉炖笋、红烧鳝丝、红烧划水等500多个品种。但最具传奇色彩要算绩溪岭北的“一品锅”了。相传“一品锅”与七下江南的乾隆皇帝有关：一次乾隆出巡江南，由九华山来绩溪上庄寻找曾祖母(相传乾隆是汉人后裔，上庄余川有天字坟及传说)。那天行至一山坞，天色渐暗，想找个地方歇脚，见附近有一农舍便贸然叩门。农妇见两位陌生人摸黑登门心生奇怪，问明缘由后便好生侍候。当时中秋刚过，家中有些剩余的菜肴，农妇便将萝卜、干角豆、红烧肉、油豆腐包等先荤后素地配搭，一层层铺在两耳锅里煮熟端上桌来。乾隆皇帝吃得津津有味，问是什么菜?农妇随口答“一锅熟”。食毕，乾隆抹抹嘴说：“一锅熟名称不雅，此乃徽州名肴‘一品锅’也。”从此“一品锅”名扬大半个中国。
据说胡适博士对家乡的“一品锅”尤为钟爱。夫人江冬秀也最擅长做正宗的岭北“一品锅”，胡适任北大校长时，常在家中设“一品锅”宴请友人。梁实秋先生曾在一篇文章中回忆道：“一只大铁锅，口径差不多有二尺，热腾腾地端上来里面还滚沸，一层鸡、一层鸭、一层肉、一层油豆腐，点缀着一些蛋皮饺，紧底下是萝卜、青菜，味道好极。”胡适到了美国，仍不忘故乡，常常用“一品锅”招待客人，并特地介绍这是中国菜、徽州菜、绩溪菜，用以表达他的思乡爱国之情。
“除了皇帝就是我”
绩溪小吃中，“苞萝”也让人喜爱。“苞萝”是当时徽州人上山劳作随身当作干粮的食物，它是绩溪“挞”的一种。绩溪挞的制作始于明初，据说清乾隆皇帝微服南巡扬州，与徽客汪某在客栈中相遇，他在品尝绩溪挞回朝后，与内阁大臣曹文埴谈起徽州地方风味小吃时，称赞此为食中佳品。绩溪曾传唱着一首苞萝的民谣：
“手捧苞萝，脚踏木炭火；
无忧又无虑，除了皇帝就是我。”
这首民谣传神地道出了山里人偏爱吃苞萝的习俗，道出了绩溪人与世无争的一种生活境界。绩溪小吃很多，但最为普通的莫过于香脆可口的挞(苞萝)了。绩溪山多地少，过去山里人家大多都以苞萝(玉米)为主粮，苞锣也自然成了人们的主食。由于“苞萝”吃了耐饥，故受从事重体力劳动的山农欢迎，现在绩溪人也有以面粉为主料做的“挞”。绩溪“苞萝”里面素馅，掺配猪肉油丁，两面再沾上少许炒热的黑芝麻，最后用文火烤熟成为佳肴。现在香椿馅、萝卜丝馅、豆黄馅、腌渍菜馅的绩溪挞更有名气，若辅以馄饨、豆腐脑、豆浆、粥，那是一顿营养丰富的早餐。
徽菜是一盘文化
绩溪人的传统美食徽菜，原料都多取自“干货”、“腌货”、“奇货”，如毛豆腐、干渍菜，臭鳜鱼、臭豆腐、腌猪肉、石鸡、石耳、石斑鱼、山珍以及苦荠菜等，这与绩溪人过去艰苦的生活环境息息相关。古人云，靠山吃山，靠水吃水，长年生活在山区的绩溪人习惯用竹制的菜筒盛菜，或用山中箬皮包裹饭菜，所以徽菜也多用“铁锅”、“砂锅”、“瓷碗”、“竹筒”等土而质朴的器具烹饪。
每一道徽菜背后都有一段鲜活的历史，一个美丽故事。过去，徽州商人外出做生意回家，总想带几条鳜鱼回家给妻儿老小尝鲜，因离家较远，虽抹上点盐但到家时鱼已经不够新鲜甚至有点发臭，但烧起来却别有风味，于是“臭鳜鱼”这一名菜就慢慢传开了。徽菜用火腿调味是传统技艺，制作火腿在徽州十分普及，故有“金华火腿在东阳，东阳火腿出徽州”之谚。最初在金华做火腿的大多是绩溪师傅。由于徽菜以擅长烧、炖、熏、蒸闻名，“旺火快炒、烈火快炸、匀火蒸煮、文火慢炖”方法，“使一物各献一性”，又喜用冰糖提鲜、火腿佐味、料酒去腥，久而久之便形成了原汁原味、酥嫩香鲜、浓淡相宜的徽菜独特风味。
徽菜凝聚着绩溪人对生活的感悟，饱含着绩溪人对生活的一份信念，也是一种地道的乡土生活心情。徽菜之所以在中华菜系中占有一席之地，是在于她那独特的区域个性，在于那种浓烈的徽文化气息。
（摄影：唐祖怀方静）
Origin of Anhui Cuisine
Fang Jing
One of China’s eight major styles of cooking, Anhui Cuisine dates back to a long time ago. It is known for its simplicity and cultural heritage.
In September 2005, a team of experts from China Cuisines Association determined on the basis of research results and studies that Jixi of Anhui Province is the home of China’s Anhui Cuisine. This overdue honor adds a charming dimension to Jixi, a place of celebrities and scenery.
The cuisine originated from ordinary families in ancient times. Poverty-stricken families knew how to cook ordinary things available to them, including herbs and delicacies they found in wilderness and mountains.
According to Jixi County Annals, Wang was a surname shared by a lot of people along the Dengyuan River in Jixi County. The Wang families gathered every year in commemoration of their ancestors and in celebration of the New Year in the first month on the Lunar Calendar. Festivities included flower lanterns, percussion band performances, firecrackers, street parades with communal gifts such as pigs, offerings to gods, ceremonies at the ancestor memorial temple, etc.
On such an occasion, each family was to offer a dish to gods. Each wanted to prepare something unusual and better than the rest. The competition went on year in year out. The annual celebration grew in scale and influence. Gradually, this part of the annual gathering acquired a poetic name: competition in fine jade bowls.
When these dishes were displayed publicly, neighbors, relatives, and friends learned from each other. Such a process was repeated over hundreds of years. A distinct style formed and a long menu surfaced.
In the evening years of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and the dawning years of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), some people from Jixi began to set up restaurants and noodle shops in Huizhou (today’s Shexian County and Tunxi). As the flavor became popular with diners in other places, Jixi chefs migrated as restaurants moved farther and farther from home. One wave of the distinct Anhui cuisine moved to the rural areas of northern Zhejiang. The other wave migrated down the Qiantang River and reached Hangzhou, Jiaxing, Huzhou, all big cities in Zhejiang Province. Restaurants featuring Anhui cooking were usually small in size and number. But they eventually expanded throughout the Yangtze River Delta and even to the southwestern China. Profits from the restaurants became an important source of cash that flew back to Anhui province.
The Anhui cuisine prospered for about one hundred years from the second half of the 19th century to the first half of the 20th century. During this time, business people from Anhui pushed their local products such as brush pens, ink, paper, inkstand, and tea to key cities in Zhejiang, Jiangsu, and Shanghai. The legendary business people from Anhui as well as their business and their wealth constitute an unusual phenomenon in the history of China. Their fellow cooks followed their footprints and introduced special dishes to the outside world.
Toward the last years of the Qing Dynasty, Anhui cuisine spread to Wuhan, a key city in central China. During the Resistance War against Japanese Aggression (1937-1945), their restaurants were mostly in southwestern provinces. After 1949, some moved to northern and western parts of China. According to some statistics, in its golden years, there were 120 big Anhui cuisine restaurants in Shanghai, 60 in Wuhan, 21 in Nanjing. In 1959, Chairman Mao visited Wuhan and swam in the Yangtze River. It was during his stay in Wuhan that he tasted a fish dish cooked by a chef from Jixi and wrote a famous poem. According to history, in 1790, a Hui opera troupe was first invited from Anhui to Beijing to stage plays for the royal court, thus opening a new chapter for the local opera which gradually evolved into Peking Opera. Chefs from Anhui followed the troupe to Beijing. This was how the cuisine finally won its national reputation.
Today, the cuisine has an amazing repertoire of more than 500 dishes, all indicating its rural origin. There are stories and legends to explain how a dish came into being, or how or why it is cooked in a particular way. The cuisine represents Jixi people’s understanding of their life, their belief in life and their passion. Its national fame comes from its distinct local cultural dimension.
(Translated by David)
2005年9月，中国烹饪协会经过专家组考察论证，将徽州文化的主要发祥地绩溪定为“中国徽菜之乡”，因而使得这个处于吴头楚尾、自古“邑小士多”的人杰宝地和黄山脚下山清水秀的礼仪之邦，更增添了诱人魅力。
徽菜发源“赛琼碗”
徽菜是一种来自民间最古老的菜肴，那些腌的、臭的、苦的以及那些让外地人瞠目结舌的野菜、山珍，通过徽文化的熏陶和绩溪人的用心包装和泡制，便成了美食家桌上的回味无穷的“佳肴”。据《绩溪县志》记载，每年绩溪登源河一带汪氏大姓，为祭祀始祖都要举行“花朝会”，汪姓民众从农历正月十八至二月二十五日，轮流在宗祠、村庙举行闹花灯、敲锣鼓、放鞭炮、抬会猪、摆供献、烧香祭拜等活动，其中，最吸引人的当是来自一家一户祭神“供献”。由于年年举办这样的盛会，供品愈摆愈多，规模越办越大，摆供献的程序逐渐有了个文雅好听的名词“赛琼碗”。在“赛琼碗”活动中，大家在案桌上除了摆放粗如断柱的大红神烛、壮如牯牛的会猪和清茶、美酒、果点外，更多的是用名贵瓷盘、瓷碗盛装各种山珍野味和由农家土产精制的象征“五谷丰登”、“吉祥如意”、“鸿福无边”、“福寿绵长”的各色美味。
为使自己制作的供品菜肴比别人的更加美观、夺目，虔诚的村民充分利用冬笋的嫩黄、豆腐的玉白、香菇的熟褐、蕨菜的青紫、辣椒的艳红和品的金黄，烹制出许多先前没有做过的多彩菜肴来。天长日久，做这些佳肴的绩溪人逐渐形成了对菜肴的“重色”观念。史料称，规模最大的祭祀活动，案桌上最多排放多达288盘(碗)供献。这些表达百姓对神灵顶礼膜拜而精心制作的一盘盘珍馐供品，宛如一件件艺术杰作。可以想象，这样的“赛琼碗”，既是酬神活动，也必然成为民间美味佳肴博览会。这是一种壮观而又具有民间韵味的文化现象!历经数百年沧桑，绩溪人不断向山水索取精华，不断别出心裁提高这种乡间土菜的品位，并慢慢地形成了相对稳定的风格，这就是徽菜之源!
徽馆做出大市场
绩溪人的庙祭活动，使土菜迈出了从一家一户走向公共场合的第一步，并迅速成为“徽菜”菜谱定型的基础和前奏。年复一年，一些善于制作这些祭祀菜肴的能手便成了身怀绝技的烹饪大师，成了他们外出经商赚钱的资本。
明末清初，绩溪人制作这些菜肴的菜馆和面馆开业于本埠徽州府(歙县和屯溪一带)，后来不断辗转迁徙，一支经宣城、郎溪、广德至浙江孝丰、安吉一带；一支由新安江进入杭州、嘉兴、湖州各重镇。当时，徽厨操营的菜馆和面馆，铺面不大，店号也不多，后来在长江中下游一带乃至西南形成规模、气候，成为徽籍旅外经济一大产业，那还是在清代中叶之后。
绩溪旅外徽馆业在清代咸丰初到1949年间的近一个世纪中最为兴旺。清代咸丰、同治间，旅外徽厨随着徽州的笔、墨、纸、砚、茶等各业商人进入杭、嘉、湖、苏、沪、宁一带的城镇码头，清末扩展到武汉三镇，抗战间开拓至川、湘、桂、黔、云，1949年后一部分又转迁至豫、晋、甘、辽等省市镇。他们在上海开设了鸿运楼、大中华、大富贵、大中国、大新楼、大嘉福等120余家菜馆；武汉有60家；南京有21家；衡阳、柳州至昆明一线13个市、县有徽菜馆41家。1959年毛主席视察武汉时，兴致勃勃品尝过绩溪厨师烧的“武昌鱼”，写下了著名的《水调歌头·游泳》诗篇。据史料载，清乾隆五十五年(1790)徽班晋京，绩溪烹饪业也随之北上，开始进入京都，这种“徽馆”后来犹如唱响的山歌，成为徽州人旅外菜馆业的统称，徽菜也终于由此推向全国。
乾隆赐名“一品锅”
徽菜中具有代表性的佳作有腌鲜鳜鱼、杨梅圆子、清炖马蹄鳖，清炖石鸡、虎皮毛豆腐、咸肉炖笋、红烧鳝丝、红烧划水等500多个品种。但最具传奇色彩要算绩溪岭北的“一品锅”了。相传“一品锅”与七下江南的乾隆皇帝有关：一次乾隆出巡江南，由九华山来绩溪上庄寻找曾祖母(相传乾隆是汉人后裔，上庄余川有天字坟及传说)。那天行至一山坞，天色渐暗，想找个地方歇脚，见附近有一农舍便贸然叩门。农妇见两位陌生人摸黑登门心生奇怪，问明缘由后便好生侍候。当时中秋刚过，家中有些剩余的菜肴，农妇便将萝卜、干角豆、红烧肉、油豆腐包等先荤后素地配搭，一层层铺在两耳锅里煮熟端上桌来。乾隆皇帝吃得津津有味，问是什么菜?农妇随口答“一锅熟”。食毕，乾隆抹抹嘴说：“一锅熟名称不雅，此乃徽州名肴‘一品锅’也。”从此“一品锅”名扬大半个中国。
据说胡适博士对家乡的“一品锅”尤为钟爱。夫人江冬秀也最擅长做正宗的岭北“一品锅”，胡适任北大校长时，常在家中设“一品锅”宴请友人。梁实秋先生曾在一篇文章中回忆道：“一只大铁锅，口径差不多有二尺，热腾腾地端上来里面还滚沸，一层鸡、一层鸭、一层肉、一层油豆腐，点缀着一些蛋皮饺，紧底下是萝卜、青菜，味道好极。”胡适到了美国，仍不忘故乡，常常用“一品锅”招待客人，并特地介绍这是中国菜、徽州菜、绩溪菜，用以表达他的思乡爱国之情。
“除了皇帝就是我”
绩溪小吃中，“苞萝”也让人喜爱。“苞萝”是当时徽州人上山劳作随身当作干粮的食物，它是绩溪“挞”的一种。绩溪挞的制作始于明初，据说清乾隆皇帝微服南巡扬州，与徽客汪某在客栈中相遇，他在品尝绩溪挞回朝后，与内阁大臣曹文埴谈起徽州地方风味小吃时，称赞此为食中佳品。绩溪曾传唱着一首苞萝的民谣：
“手捧苞萝，脚踏木炭火；
无忧又无虑，除了皇帝就是我。”
这首民谣传神地道出了山里人偏爱吃苞萝的习俗，道出了绩溪人与世无争的一种生活境界。绩溪小吃很多，但最为普通的莫过于香脆可口的挞(苞萝)了。绩溪山多地少，过去山里人家大多都以苞萝(玉米)为主粮，苞锣也自然成了人们的主食。由于“苞萝”吃了耐饥，故受从事重体力劳动的山农欢迎，现在绩溪人也有以面粉为主料做的“挞”。绩溪“苞萝”里面素馅，掺配猪肉油丁，两面再沾上少许炒热的黑芝麻，最后用文火烤熟成为佳肴。现在香椿馅、萝卜丝馅、豆黄馅、腌渍菜馅的绩溪挞更有名气，若辅以馄饨、豆腐脑、豆浆、粥，那是一顿营养丰富的早餐。
徽菜是一盘文化
绩溪人的传统美食徽菜，原料都多取自“干货”、“腌货”、“奇货”，如毛豆腐、干渍菜，臭鳜鱼、臭豆腐、腌猪肉、石鸡、石耳、石斑鱼、山珍以及苦荠菜等，这与绩溪人过去艰苦的生活环境息息相关。古人云，靠山吃山，靠水吃水，长年生活在山区的绩溪人习惯用竹制的菜筒盛菜，或用山中箬皮包裹饭菜，所以徽菜也多用“铁锅”、“砂锅”、“瓷碗”、“竹筒”等土而质朴的器具烹饪。
每一道徽菜背后都有一段鲜活的历史，一个美丽故事。过去，徽州商人外出做生意回家，总想带几条鳜鱼回家给妻儿老小尝鲜，因离家较远，虽抹上点盐但到家时鱼已经不够新鲜甚至有点发臭，但烧起来却别有风味，于是“臭鳜鱼”这一名菜就慢慢传开了。徽菜用火腿调味是传统技艺，制作火腿在徽州十分普及，故有“金华火腿在东阳，东阳火腿出徽州”之谚。最初在金华做火腿的大多是绩溪师傅。由于徽菜以擅长烧、炖、熏、蒸闻名，“旺火快炒、烈火快炸、匀火蒸煮、文火慢炖”方法，“使一物各献一性”，又喜用冰糖提鲜、火腿佐味、料酒去腥，久而久之便形成了原汁原味、酥嫩香鲜、浓淡相宜的徽菜独特风味。
徽菜凝聚着绩溪人对生活的感悟，饱含着绩溪人对生活的一份信念，也是一种地道的乡土生活心情。徽菜之所以在中华菜系中占有一席之地，是在于她那独特的区域个性，在于那种浓烈的徽文化气息。
（摄影：唐祖怀方静）
Origin of Anhui Cuisine
Fang Jing
One of China’s eight major styles of cooking, Anhui Cuisine dates back to a long time ago. It is known for its simplicity and cultural heritage.
In September 2005, a team of experts from China Cuisines Association determined on the basis of research results and studies that Jixi of Anhui Province is the home of China’s Anhui Cuisine. This overdue honor adds a charming dimension to Jixi, a place of celebrities and scenery.
The cuisine originated from ordinary families in ancient times. Poverty-stricken families knew how to cook ordinary things available to them, including herbs and delicacies they found in wilderness and mountains.
According to Jixi County Annals, Wang was a surname shared by a lot of people along the Dengyuan River in Jixi County. The Wang families gathered every year in commemoration of their ancestors and in celebration of the New Year in the first month on the Lunar Calendar. Festivities included flower lanterns, percussion band performances, firecrackers, street parades with communal gifts such as pigs, offerings to gods, ceremonies at the ancestor memorial temple, etc.
On such an occasion, each family was to offer a dish to gods. Each wanted to prepare something unusual and better than the rest. The competition went on year in year out. The annual celebration grew in scale and influence. Gradually, this part of the annual gathering acquired a poetic name: competition in fine jade bowls.
When these dishes were displayed publicly, neighbors, relatives, and friends learned from each other. Such a process was repeated over hundreds of years. A distinct style formed and a long menu surfaced.
In the evening years of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and the dawning years of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), some people from Jixi began to set up restaurants and noodle shops in Huizhou (today’s Shexian County and Tunxi). As the flavor became popular with diners in other places, Jixi chefs migrated as restaurants moved farther and farther from home. One wave of the distinct Anhui cuisine moved to the rural areas of northern Zhejiang. The other wave migrated down the Qiantang River and reached Hangzhou, Jiaxing, Huzhou, all big cities in Zhejiang Province. Restaurants featuring Anhui cooking were usually small in size and number. But they eventually expanded throughout the Yangtze River Delta and even to the southwestern China. Profits from the restaurants became an important source of cash that flew back to Anhui province.
The Anhui cuisine prospered for about one hundred years from the second half of the 19th century to the first half of the 20th century. During this time, business people from Anhui pushed their local products such as brush pens, ink, paper, inkstand, and tea to key cities in Zhejiang, Jiangsu, and Shanghai. The legendary business people from Anhui as well as their business and their wealth constitute an unusual phenomenon in the history of China. Their fellow cooks followed their footprints and introduced special dishes to the outside world.
Toward the last years of the Qing Dynasty, Anhui cuisine spread to Wuhan, a key city in central China. During the Resistance War against Japanese Aggression (1937-1945), their restaurants were mostly in southwestern provinces. After 1949, some moved to northern and western parts of China. According to some statistics, in its golden years, there were 120 big Anhui cuisine restaurants in Shanghai, 60 in Wuhan, 21 in Nanjing. In 1959, Chairman Mao visited Wuhan and swam in the Yangtze River. It was during his stay in Wuhan that he tasted a fish dish cooked by a chef from Jixi and wrote a famous poem. According to history, in 1790, a Hui opera troupe was first invited from Anhui to Beijing to stage plays for the royal court, thus opening a new chapter for the local opera which gradually evolved into Peking Opera. Chefs from Anhui followed the troupe to Beijing. This was how the cuisine finally won its national reputation.
Today, the cuisine has an amazing repertoire of more than 500 dishes, all indicating its rural origin. There are stories and legends to explain how a dish came into being, or how or why it is cooked in a particular way. The cuisine represents Jixi people’s understanding of their life, their belief in life and their passion. Its national fame comes from its distinct local cultural dimension.
(Translated by David)