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2013年10月下旬，受韩国庆尚北道邀请，我有幸考察新罗故地，并参加庆尚北道、《庆北时报》主办，韩国海洋科学技术院承办，韩国海洋财团、韩国海洋大学、庆州市协办的“海洋丝绸之路国际学术会议”。
为拓展丝绸之路文化，庆尚北道成立专门办事机构——“韩国丝绸之路项目部”，负责人是金南镒先生。2013年7月，我们在兰州大学举办的“敦煌和丝绸之路国际学术研讨会”中相识，新罗故地见面，很高兴。寒暄几句，他就满怀激情介绍韩国丝绸之路项目的主要成果及今后计划。2013年最大成果是，3月21日至4月4日从庆州到西安第一批探险队考察（76人，行程5000公里）和7月17日至8月31日从西安市到伊斯坦布尔的第二批探险队考察（24人，行程1.6万公里）。两批探险队耗时两月，途经中国、哈萨克斯坦、吉尔吉斯斯坦、乌兹别克斯坦、土库曼斯坦、伊朗和土耳其，完成对陆上丝绸之路的激情穿越。他们将于2014年举行“海洋丝绸之路全球大长征”。即将举办的“海洋丝绸之路国际学术会议”就是从学术、科学、安全保障等方面进行论证。
晚餐后，热爱文化、言谈举止都洋溢着文化气息的孙文植提议到咖啡馆里继续聊天。我欣然接受。咖啡馆对面百米外的地方，竟然是长着几棵古树、虽经历千年但威仪不减的庞大王陵。孙先生打开手机中的文物图片，说这类墓葬结构和形式与斯基泰人极其相似。中国《史记》、《汉书》称斯基泰人为塞种、尖帽塞人或萨迦人，善养马，属南俄草原上印欧语系东伊朗语族，是史载最早的游牧民族，游牧地从俄罗斯东部一直延伸到内蒙古和鄂尔多斯沙漠。
遥远岁月长河中，斯基泰人与新罗人先祖有着怎样的联系？
就这个话题，我们聊得很多，很远，在新罗历史文化中徜徉。
我感慨说：“多年来，这是首次在距古代文化遗址最近的地方喝咖啡。”
“不是距离最近，你就坐在文化的中心！”孙先生微笑说。
古老而鲜活的新罗文化
10月29日，孙先生做向导，考察庆州文化遗址。
孙先生热情，开朗，健谈，滔滔不绝介绍新罗历史文化，似乎要把这块古老土地上每个文化碎片都毫无保留呈现出来。
新罗文化发源地庆州位于庆尚北道东南庆州盆地中部，四面环山，东有明治山，西有玉女峰、仙绦峰，南有金鳌山，北有金刚山。又有西川、南川、北川三水汇流，环绕城邑，山河壮美。公元前57年，古代新罗王在此建都，历三国鼎立时代、新罗统一全朝鲜时代，923年，被高丽所灭，绵延繁荣近千年。《三国史记》记载，新罗古都仿造唐长安城而建，昌盛时人口超过百万，是庆州市总人口的九倍。庆州是韩国、朝鲜半岛历史文化及艺术文物最丰富的地方，被誉为没有围墙的文化博物馆——历史遗迹遍布于市区和郊区，星罗棋布，有50多座王陵，有新罗时代外城（山城）、王宫（半月城）及新罗第五代婆娑王所筑的满月城，有曾经举行曲水流觞之宴的离宫旧址，有亚洲最早石建天文台之一的“瞻星台”，有文武王所建水湖枣雁鸭池（出土过很多文物），有受隋朝影响雕刻的三体石佛，还有芬皇寺、皇龙寺遗址、金庾信将军墓、良洞村、佛国寺、石窟庵、鸡林、石冰库等历史文化遗址，短期内也根本无法全部观瞻。
孙先生选择最合理路线，争取让我多看几处文化遗址。
首先是静卧于庆州市江西面六通里的兴德王陵。汽车在天然“氧吧”中行驶，丝毫不觉得乏味。山间秋叶色彩斑斓，令人陶醉。路边常常有喜鹊悠然飞翔，欢快叫唤，声音与甘肃兰州、白银、古浪、民勤等地同类一样，听不出方言障碍。
孙先生指着路牌说：“这是标示通往李彦迪家乡良洞村的。”
李彦迪是朝鲜时期李朝哲学家，字复古，号晦斋、紫溪翁，他非常崇拜朱熹，1530年任司谏期间受排斥，在庆州紫玉山隐居七年，从事理学研究。1537年出仕，10年后，又被流放江界，直至逝世。李彦迪著《晦斋集》13卷，哲学代表作有《书忘斋忘机堂无极太极说后》、《答忘记堂书》、《大学章句补遗》、《中庸经衍义》、《求仁录》、《奉先杂义》等。
宋明理学传播到韩国，并且影响如此之大，以前竟然不知道，惭愧啊。
汽车穿过一片静谧田野，到达兴德王陵区。阳光明媚，天气晴朗，远山温润，近林清幽，烘托王陵之肃穆气氛。平缓山坡上，松林苍翠，古意盎然。松树香气清新，滋润心肺。我们怀着崇敬心情，瞻仰王陵。松林尽头，豁然开朗，朴素简约的兴德王陵出现。通向陵墓的神道满地绿茵，两边松树整齐如新。守卫神道的是两对站立翁仲，一对武官，一对文官。武官石像竟然是身材魁梧、相貌威严、大眼阔脸、八字胡须的西域人形象！我推测其原型是粟特人。孙先生说，曾有中亚游客来此，也认定是他们先祖的相貌特征。兴德王用外族武将为自己守灵，思想解放，胸怀开阔。也正是这种精神气质，才能促进物质文化交流。据说中国茶叶也是兴德王执政时传入的。
基于对兴德王的崇敬，大家在翁仲像前流连忘返，探究品评。翁仲原指匈奴人祭天神像，但历史上确有其人。翁仲原名阮翁仲，勇猛超常，将兵守临洮，威震匈奴。翁仲死后，秦始皇铸其铜像，置于咸阳宫司马门外，称“金人”、“铜人”、“金狄”、“长狄”、“遐狄”。其后，人们把立于宫阙庙堂和陵墓前的铜人或石人称为“翁仲”。后来，又专指陵墓前及神道两侧的文武官员石像。翁仲石像从匈奴到秦汉、到唐朝，再到新罗，分明是一条穿越历史、跨越民族的文化交流之路。
我们踏着柔软草地，躬身前行，一步步，到达封土堆。兴德王陵状若馒头，圆形，以石为基，有围栏。护石围绕一周，雕刻着牛、虎、蛇、猴、兔等十二支神像，虽经受1200年风风雨雨，但依然栩栩如生，憨态可掬，仿佛沧桑岁月没有在它们的心灵中留下任何痕迹。这些可爱的神灵与翁仲石像、松树、鸟鹊、白云、阳光一起，默默陪伴兴德王及王妃章合夫人，不舍昼夜。据说，兴德王登基后第一年，王妃与世长辞，兴德王悲痛不已。11年后，他辞世后与章合夫人合葬。另据《三国遗事》记载，兴德王曾养过一对鸳鸯，母鸳鸯因病死去。兴德王将镜子放入鸟笼，希望它借己形象忆“亡妻”。公鸳鸯却误以为镜中影像是母鸳鸯，拼命叩啄，最终死亡。这段悲情故事让人动容。 正惬意享受王陵区的恬淡幽静，忽然，一头小鹿从左边松林中跃出，蹦蹦跳跳，跑过山地草坪，进入右边松林。
参观完兴德王陵，我们来到东国大学博物馆。东国大学由佛僧初创，有100多年历史，总部设在首尔，庆州是分校。在校学生都得选修佛教方面的课程。
博物馆负责人李东宪先生迎接。进展馆大门，一扇扇古老文化的窗户在这现代文明高度发达的城市中心陆续打开，大家尽情享受古新罗人在庆州创造的东方文化饕餮盛宴。鸭形土器、骨壶、土偶、莲花纹瓦当、鬼面瓦、塔像文砖、平瓦当上的万历四十年铭文、金铜佛像、金铜菩萨像、石造罗汉像、蜡石制十二支像片、壁画、蜡石制舍利壶、铜镜、龙钮、华严经石碑残片、文武大王陵碑石残片等，每一物件都是一部绵长历史，每一形态都是一段美丽生动的文化交融故事。我深深感到，对于丰厚的艺术和思想而言，即便文字能够做到像赑屃那样善于驮负，即便能够洋洋洒洒地书写历史，也不可能面面俱到，更无法触及到每个细致入微的层面。
没想到，韩国竟有如此灿烂辉煌的古代文化艺术。惊叹中浏览，浏览中惊叹。孙先生见我如此真实地陶醉，浑身上下都流溢出油然而生的“民族自豪感”。他对文化的挚爱程度不亚于任何一位中国学者。
参观完博物馆，大家到附近的谷食店小憩。这家餐馆大门两边贴有对联：“立春大吉，建阳多庆。”内部陈设简朴，极富生活气息。半块笑脸雕塑，一串红绿辣椒，不知名的干花，中国书法作品“龙”，随意布置。客人来来往往，络绎不绝。配菜多是韩国泡菜，主食是一大碗面。此前，我以为兰州牛大碗独霸天下，端起这个碗，觉得更像小盆子，称为“碗”都屈才了。
用过餐，告别李东宪先生，匆匆前往坐落在庆州南部的圣德王陵。道路两边，近处是农田，远处是披满华丽秋装的山，随心所欲，自然开合，有诗意，有禅意，有古意，城市化痕迹被消解得干干净净。
圣德王陵主人是新罗第38代元圣王金敬信（785～798）。新罗从第13代国王味邹王开始，绝大部分国王都是金氏。据传，庆州金氏始祖阏智诞生于鸡林。新罗脱解王时代，瓠公在一片叫始林、鸠林的树林听到鸡啼，走近，看到一只金柜挂在树枝上，立即向皇上报告。皇上取下金柜，打开盖子，里面有个姓金的小孩，便为他取名金阏智，树林也改称鸡林。历朝历代，鸡林备受重视，现在成了游览胜地。
圣德王当政时实行“读书出身科制度”选用人才，很有作为。圣德王驾崩下葬，地下有水，棺材只好挂着，因此王陵又称 “挂陵”。挂陵，规模大于兴德王，中间的松软草地带延展到陵墓封土处，两边是松林、华表石、文武翁仲像、石狮子等。陵墓封土外面石上依然是十二支神像，护卫一周。十二支（地支）是记录时间和方位的神灵，在统一新罗时期由中国传入，最初以土偶陪葬品形式出现，此后慢慢演变为陵墓的守护神，也是佛塔、浮屠、石灯等佛教艺术中阳面雕刻的主要内容。
与圣德王陵毗邻的是九政里方形坟，坐落在大德山南侧丘陵末端平地上。这座坟的主人至今未考证出来。它距离圣德王陵非常近，是不是被允许陪葬的功勋卓著的文臣或武将？
国立庆州博物馆
国立庆州博物馆由考古馆、美术馆、雁鸭池馆和室外展览四部分组成，是仅次于汉城国立博物馆的高水平博物馆。它毗邻新罗皇室墓葬群、瞻星台、庆州月城，成立于1945年，初为韩国国立中央博物馆庆州分部，以后不断扩建，1975年升级为国立庆州博物馆，主要展出史前时代、古新罗、伽倻文化圈到统一新罗时代的各种文化遗产。
我们抵达时，正逢庆州中、小学生被老师引导着在露天石雕像前参观学习。学生天真烂漫，欢声笑语，为沉重丰厚的历史氛围中平添许多生机。
首先拜谒的是馆外的圣德大王神钟。这尊大钟用青铜铸造，高3.36米，重23吨。传说，当年铸钟时曾将一名9岁女童作为祭品，铸成后发出“爱米莱”的声音（韩语，妈妈），故称爱米莱钟。钟体上有铭文和手持香炉的飞天像。飞天构图、形象几近敦煌壁画中的唐代飞天，明显不同处是敦煌飞天多自由舞蹈状，而钟体飞天却呈跪姿，由此可见圣德大王心心念念欲往极乐世界的愿望是多么深切，多么虔诚。
参观期间，文化学者、韩国文明交流研究所社团法人、韩国檀国大学史学科郑守一教授从首尔到庆州进行考察。郑教授曾在中国生活过30多年，懂汉语，交流很方便。“乐莫乐兮新相知”，大家愉快参观，随时讨论。
考古馆展出的文物把庆州历史上溯到54～56万年以前的石器时代。最具代表性的是蔚山细竹里贝塚、庆州隍城洞、庆州下西里和蔚珍厚浦里遗迹，出土了用岩石、鹰翅骨加工而成的鱼叉，以及陶器、石器、饰物、岩画等，还有青铜器、铁器、项链等文物。它们延续了古老的历史文化，并且随着人类文明长河的波浪不断向前推进，公元前57年，新罗建国。以后，又陆续兼并伽倻、百济和高句丽等国，完成统一大业，进入全面繁荣期。中国崇尚玉，而新罗推崇黄金，素有“黄金之国”美称。天马冢、98号古墓出土的新罗金皇冠、金制冠帽、蝴蝶状冠饰物、腰带等金器体现了新罗人的非凡智慧和卓越技艺。与胸饰、项链、垂饰搭配的饰品中，常常可见一种造型像鱼的弯钩形状物件，韩国民间称作“曲鱼” 、“曲玉”，学术界则叫“勾玉”。
天马冢出土的金器、玻璃盏和大量勾玉，似乎幽幽诉说着遥远岁月里新罗经过海上丝绸之路与西方世界交流的传奇故事。
郑守一教授介绍，韩半岛通过海路与南方海路沿岸地区间的交流遗迹非常多，至今存在着一些语言学“活化石”。百年前，美国传教士豪末·赫尔波特就提出此问题，却没有引起学术界足够重视。前不久，郑教授与其他学者到南印度和斯里兰卡调查，发现韩语与泰米尔语发音、语意相同的词竟达500多个。这肯定不是偶然巧合。
展品中，除十二支神面石像，还有以其为表现题材的青铜秤砣、蜡石像、石雕像、泥塑像、青铜像等，都是人身“支”首，有的精巧华丽，有的细节逼真，有的神情生动，有的简洁朴拙，从不同角度折射出古代新罗人的审美情趣和生活态度。 佛教美术厅，不管是形制独特的砖石塔、土塔、舍利供养容器，还是绿松石、玛瑙、玻璃珠、水晶石、玉珠、海螺、金银器之类供养品，抑或用汉文书写的塔志碑，都呈现出韩民族文化的包容性和佛教艺术的繁盛。三国时期的新罗屋瓦也独具特色，有莲花纹、宝相花纹、唐草纹、人面纹、迦陵频加纹、麒麟纹、龙纹等。莲花纹在表现形式和雕刻手法上各不相同。庆州灵庙寺遗址出土的人面纹表情安静，面带微笑，使人联想到希腊、罗马的健美雕塑。迦陵频加纹则一点都不陌生，是敦煌壁画中的常见题材。
佛教艺术第二展厅中大多陈列金铜佛像、石雕佛像、摩崖佛像、十一面观音菩萨像、明活山城筑城碑、北汉山真兴王巡守碑、壬申誓记石、意次顿殉教碑等雕塑。石刻艺术品手法朴拙，技艺高超，温润而不失大气，含蓄却不觉拘谨，它们组成强大的石雕艺术阵容，彰显着新罗时期人们的审美能力和辉煌成就，也透露出那个王朝之所以强盛、繁华的历史密码。
我们在每一件文物前都驻足许久，不忍离开。不知不觉，闭馆时间到了。出展厅，夜色微茫，寒气袭人。走在静谧的路上，我的内心充实、愉悦，为韩国人对文化的尊重感到由衷的敬佩。天地之大，还有什么比齐心协力为共同的目标而奋斗更有意义？
山的坚韧，海的开阔
前两天接地气，接人气，看博物馆，对韩半岛通过陆路、海路与世界的历史状况有了感性认识。相关文献知识也在它们的故土复活了，鲜活了。
这真是一次难得的跨国田野考察。
10月30日，“海洋丝绸之路国际学术会议”在庆州希尔顿酒店举行。
庆尚北道行政副知事朱洛荣先生、庆尚北道丝绸之路事业推进部总括企划首席处长金日焕先生、韩东大学空间环境工学部教授李大俊、庆尚北道丝绸之路事业推进部探险队运营首席处长金惠麟先生、东海研究所所长金东成先生、建筑学专家裴奎星等先生陆续到达。参加会议的还有其他大学教授、学生150人左右。
儒雅的朱洛荣先生同我交换名片后，彬彬有礼说：“我是朱熹的后代。”
学术会议准时开始，内容分为开幕式、政策发言、主题发言和综合讨论。
韩国学术会议组织得非常严谨，每个环节都很细致。学者发表演讲，都严格遵守时间。田有珍女士一丝不苟地翻译。在她帮助下，我了解到韩国学者报告的大概内容，如《从文物看史前时代的韩日文化交流》、《海洋丝绸之路的交流港口》（韩国东南亚大研究所洪喜俊教授）、《张保皋与亚洲的海上交易》（李有珍教授）、《海上丝绸之路与东海：历史与未来》（岭南大学独岛研究所裴桂成）、《慧超看的印度与中央亚西亚》、《推进海洋丝绸之路的海洋文化史的意义》、《张保皋船团的海上活动与交易》、《通过张保皋原船舶的新罗船复原事例》、《为确保海洋丝绸之路探险船舶的安全性的提案》、《根据古代气候与海流，研究海洋丝绸之路探险航路》、《在海洋丝绸之路探险上，海洋科学的活用》等。
尽管田有珍非常敬业，仍然赶不上学者发言速度。但我还是了解到一些新的历史文化交流知识，得到很多启发。例如，通过李有珍教授演讲的《张保皋与亚洲的海上交易》，我首次了解到这位对海上贸易做出重大贡献的将军。
张保皋，790年生于新罗，好武术，善水性。807年与好友郑年入唐参加武宁军，屡建战功，819年擢迁至武宁军小将。824年在赤山（今石岛湾）建立赤山法华院。每年农历八月十五，新罗人在这里集聚，载歌载舞，欢度节日，赤山法华院遂成为新罗人文化活动中心和往返大唐的驿站。日本国佛教天台宗高僧圆仁随遣唐使滕原常嗣一行西渡求法，先后三次客居法华院，得到当地官吏、居民和法华院僧侣资助，再往五台山、长安等地求法巡礼。圆仁归国后，为感谢赤山人民的情意，让弟子在日本京都小野山以赤山为名修建赤山禅院。他还编著《入唐求法巡礼行记》，使赤山法华院名扬海内外。
828年，张保皋回到新罗，奏请兴德王批准，清海镇成立大本营，招募1万岛民组成军队，荡平多股日本海盗。他又组建庞大船队往返新罗、中国、日本，进行海运和商业贸易，并在莞岛象皇峰、济州岛河源洞建法华院，与山东半岛赤山法华院互为海运贸易联络点，形成以清海镇为大本营，以赤山（荣成石岛镇）、登州（山东蓬莱）、莱州（山东莱州）、泗州（安徽泗县）、楚州（江苏淮安）、扬州（江苏扬州）、明州（浙江宁波）、泉州（福建泉州）及日本九州为基点的海运商业贸易网络。新罗入唐经商、求学、从业、居留的人迅速增多，仅赤山一带就有十多个新罗村。从赤山到文登、牟平、登州、青州、临淄、长山等地沿途有许多专为新罗人提供服务的新罗院。
学者多次提到的另一位重要历史人物是新罗僧人慧超。慧超大约出生在700年，青年时前往五印度诸国巡礼，先后到东印度、中印度、南印度、西印度、北印度，再经波斯、阿富汗、帕米尔、喀什、龟兹、焉耆返回长安，著有《往五天竺国传》，记录从中国去古印度探求圣迹所经历国家、地区、城邦以及中国西北地理、宗教信仰、佛教流传情况及风土习俗等。原书三卷，已佚。慧琳所著《一切经音义》中有摘录。1908年，伯希和在敦煌藏经洞发现唐人节录的一卷本，并附有五言汉诗三首。此传残卷发现后，引起学界重视，纷纷考证、笺释、翻译。
人文学者演讲完，自然科学研究领域学者发言。他们对考察船性能、排水量等进行论证，甚至涉及到“遇到海盗如何应对”之类严肃命题。人文学者希望能驾驶新罗时代的帆船出航，那样更真实，更有意义。科学家则认为安全第一。
韩半岛丰厚的文化积淀蕴含在那些将生活气息与艺术风格完美结合的翁仲、雕塑、装饰、配件及屋宇建筑里。首次如此深入地接触到海洋丝绸之路，无疑是饕餮大宴。一个民族，不管她的人数是多少，也不管她拥有多大的国土面积，只要她能创造出有益于人类的文化，就已经足够强大了。心灵强大，文化强大，才是真正的、永恒的强大！
In late October 2013， invited by South Korea？North Gyeongsang， I had the pleasure to investigate the old Silla and attended the “Ocean Silk Road International Academic Conference”， which was sponsored by North Gyeongsang and North Gyeongsang Times， undertaken by South Korea Marine Science and Technology Institute and jointly held by South Korea Marine Consortium， South Korea Maritime University and the government of Gyeongju city. In order to develop Silk Road culture， a special institution named Korea Silk Road Project was established in South Korea North Gyeongsang with Mr. Jin Nanyi as its manager. I met Mr. Jin in International Academic Conference of Dunhuang and Silk Road sponsored by Lanzhou University in July， 2013. This time we were pleased to meet again in Silla and after the simple greetings， he introduced the main achievements and future plans of KoreaSouth Silk Road items passionately. The eminent achievements in 2013 are the two batches of expeditions. The first batch of expedition consisted of 76 people who had traveled 5000 kilometers from Gyeongju to Xi’an， from 21st March to 4th April. The second batch of expedition consisted of 24 people who had traveled 16，000 kilometers from Xi’an to Istanbul， from 17th July to 31st August. Both of the expeditions had traveled for two months through China， Kazakhstan， Kyrgyz， Uzbek， Turkmen， Iran and Turkey and they had completed the journey of the Land Silk Road full of passion. They will hold “Ocean Silk Road Global March” in 2014 and “The International Academic Conference of Ocean Silk Road” will be held， in which discussions will be made from the academic， scientific and security aspects.
After supper， I embraced the invitation from Sun Wenzhi and chatted in a café. Mr. Sun was a gentleman who was fond of cultures and whose speech and manners were full of cultural atmosphere. About 100 meters on the opposite of the café， there surprisingly stood a huge and dignified Mausoleum surrounded by several ancient trees which have experienced thousand years’ winds and rains. Mr. Sun showed the heritage photos on his cell phone and told me that the structure and form of such tomb are similar to the Scythians’. In Chinese Historical Records and The Book of Former Han， it is recorded that the Scythians is called the Sakas， the Hat Sai or the Sakya people， who was good at horse keeping. The Scythians originated from Eastern Iran belonging to the Indo-European language family and lived in the southern Russian steppe. It was the recorded oldest nomadic ethic， whose nomadic region extended from the eastern Russia to Mongolia and Erdos desert.
In the long history， what is the relationship between the Scythians and the ancestors of Silla？
Mr. Sun and I were talking much and deeply and our thoughts were strolling in the history and culture of Silla.
I said emotionally， “It is the first time that I have enjoyed coffee in a place which is so near to the ancient relic.” “Not near”， Mr. Sun smiled， “It is the center of culture that you are in.”
Ancient but Fresh Culture of Silla
On 29th Oct， Mr. Sun guided me to investigate the relics of Gyeongju culture.
He was enthusiastic， optimistic and a great talker to introduce the history and culture of Silla incessantly. It seemed that he wanted to present each fragment of culture in this ancient place without reservation.
Gyeongju city， the origin place of Silla culture， lies in the center part of the south-east Gyeongju Basin of South Korea North Gyeongsang. This place is surrounded by mountains， with Meiji Mountain in the east， Yunv Mount and Xiantao Mount in the west， Gold Dragon-Turtle Mountain in the south and Kumgang Mountain in the north. Besides， it is an interchange of three rivers named Xi Chuan， Nan Chuan and Bei Chuan， which makes it a splendid and grand city.In 57 BC， the ancient King of Silla built the capital city here， and as a capital the city lasted prosperously for near one thousand years， during which it experienced the Three Kingdoms stage and the union of the whole Korea by Silla， till it was destroyed by Koryo in 923 BC. In History of the Three Kingdoms， it was recorded that the capital city of Silla was modeled on Chang’an City in Tang Dynasty. During its most prosperous time， the population of it was over a million， which was nine times the population of Gyeongju city. Gyeongju is known as “a culture museum without enclosure”， because it is a place where the historical， cultural， and artistic relics are most plentiful in South Korea and Korean Peninsular. Here， the relics scatter all over the place both in urban and rural areas， including more than 50 Royal Tombs， such as the outer city（Yamashiro） built in Silla times， the palace（Gyeongiu Wdseong）， the Mang etsu-ji built by the fifth Dancing King of Silla， the royal detached palace where the game of floating wine had been held， one of the earliest Asian stone-built observatories， the Water Lake Jujube Wild Geese and Ducks Pool built by Munmu of Silla， and the Three Body Buddha which were built under the influence of Chinese Sui Dynasty. Besides， there are also numerous relics such as Bunhwangsa Pagoda， the ruins of Royal Dragon Temple， the tomb of General Kimyu Xin， Liang Dong village， Buddhist Temple， Cave Temple， Gyeerim， Rock-glacial Creep and other precious relics which can not be viewed totally within a short time.
Mr. Sun chose the most reasonable route to let me see more cultural sites. The first is the Tomp of King Heungdeok， which is located in a village six kilometers away across the river of Gyeongju city. Our car was running in natural “oxygen bar”， and the travel was not boring at all. The autumn leaves on the mountains are gorgeous and intoxicating. Some magpies flied leisurely on both sides of the road， singing and dancing， sounding the same as those in Lanzhou， Baiyin， Gulang， Minqin and other places， no language barriers were felt.
Pointing to the signs， Mr. Sun said： “This sign marks the road leading to Liangdong village， the hometown of Li Yandi.”
Li Yandi is a philosopher in ancient Korea and an admirer of Zhu Xi. In 1530， being an official crowded out， Li Yandi lived in seclusion for seven years in Gyeongju， studying Neo-Confucianism. In 1537， he returned to official circles， and ten years later， he was exiled again until death. Li Yandi wrote 13 volumes of Hui Study Records， and many famous philosophy books.
I felt shamed that I did not know that Neo-Confucianism had been spread into Korea， and its influence had been so great.
Passing through some quiet fields， we arrived at the Tomp of King Heungdeok. It is clear， sunny， and foggy mountains far away and the quiet woods nearby add a solemn atmosphere to the tomb. On the gentle slopes， the pine forest is green and exuberant， smelling pure and fresh. We looked at the tomb with reverence. At the end of the pine forest， there was the Tomp of King Heungdeok. The way to the tomb is full of green， and the pine trees on both sides are definitely tidy. Standing in front of the tomb are two pairs of Whenzhong， one pair are civil ones and the other pair are military ones， who are tall with burly， majestic looks， large eyes， broad face， and mustache looks like the western people. I guess its prototype is Sogdian. Mr Sun said that some central Asian tourists also considered these officials have the features of their ancestors. King Heungdeok， who had an open mind and thought， let foreign military commanders guard his tomb. It is this spirit and temperament that can promote material and culture communication. It is said that Chinese tea is also introduced into the country when King Heungdeok was in power.
Because of the reverence for King Heungdeok， we lingered around Whenzhong， evaluating the statues. Wengzhong， originally referred to the stone statues of Huns， was a real historical figure named Ruan Wenzhong. He was a very intrepid general guarding Lintao. After his death， the First Emperor of Qin Dynasty built a bronze statue of him and put it outside the gate of Xianyang Palace， called “Gold Warriors”， “Bronze Warriors”， Jindi”， “Changdi”， and “Xiadi”. Since then， the warriors standing before the palace， temple， and tomb were called Wengzhong. Later， only the stone statures of officials standing before tombs were so called. From Huns to Qin Dynasty， Tang Dynasty， and then Silla， WengZhong statue is clearly a way of cultural communication passing through history and crossing nations. We walked on the soft grass， bending forward， step by step， and reached the mound. The tomb of King Heungdeok looks like a mantou， with stone as base and a fence. On the protecting stones were carved the statues of twelve animals such as ox， tiger， snake， monkey， and rabbit. Although they have experienced 1200 years’ ups and downs， they are still lifelike and charmingly naive， as if the time did not leave any imprints in their mind. These adorable deities and Wengzhong statues， pine trees， birds， magpies， white clouds and sun， all of them silently accompanied King Heungdeok and his rani day and night. It is said that the rani died in the first year after King Heungdeok got the power， and the king was in a deep grief. 11 years later， after his death， he was buried together with his rani. According to The Three Kingdoms， King Heungdeok once raised a pair of mandarin ducks， of which the female one died of illness. King Heungdeok put a mirror in the cage for the husband to mourn his wife. However，the male mandarin duck mistakenly assumed that the mirror image was the female one， so he desperately pecked the mirror， and eventually he himself died. This story is very sad and affecting。
When I was enjoying the quietness and comfortableness of the tomb area， suddenly， a fawn jumped out from the left of the pine forest， ran through mountainous lawn to the pine forest on the right.
After the visit to the Tomb of King Heungdeok， we arrived at the Museum of Dongguk University， which was firstly built by the Buddhist monks and had a history of 100 years. Its headquarters was in Seoul， and the one in Gyeongju was its branch school. The students in this university have to take courses of Buddhism.
Mr Li Dongxian， the director of the museum greeted us. Entering the door， with the windows of old culture opened up one by one in a city center of highly developed modern civilization， we enjoyed Oriental cultural feast that ancient Silla people created in Gyeongju. All kinds of figures of Buddha on Duck-shaped earthenware， bone pots， clay image， lotus-pattern eaves tiles， ghost face tiles， tower-like brick and flat eaves tiles， every object has a long history， and every form has a beautiful， vivid， and culturally mixed story. I deeply felt that， for the rich art and thoughts， even if words can carry as bixi， can write history magnificently， they cannot carry all the thoughts or describe the details of arts.
It is surprising that South Korea had such a glorious ancient culture and art. I was amazed when browsing， and browsed with amazement. When he found that I was intoxicated，Mr. Sun showed national pride spontaneously on his whole body. His love for culture is not less than any Chinese scholar. After visiting the museum， we went to the nearby restaurant to have a nap. On both sides of the restaurant’s door， there was a Chinese couplet. Its interior furnished simply， and was full of vitality. A piece of smiling-face sculpture， a string of red and green peppers， unknown dried flowers and Chinese calligraphy “Long” were randomly arranged. The guests come and go endlessly. Most of the dishes are kimchi of South Korean， and the staple food is a big bowl of noodles. Before then， I thought that the bowl of Lanzhou beef noodles is dominating the world. However， this bowl is like a small basin， and it is not appropriate to be called as a bowl.
After finishing the meal， we said goodbye to Mr. Li Dongxian， and then hurried for the tomb King Shengde， which is located in the south of Gyeongju. On both sides of the road， the nearby view is farmland， and the distant view is mountains covered with gorgeous autumn clothing， views full of poetry， Buddhism， and past times， only the traces of urbanization removed neatly.
The host of the tomb of King Shengde is the 38th King---Jin Jingxin （785 ～ 798） in Silla. In Silla， most of kings’ surname is Kim since the 13th king. It is said that the ancestor of Kim in Gyeongju was born in Gyerim. People say that one day Hogong heard a cock crowing in a piece of woods and when he approached it， he saw a golden box hanging on the branches. He immediately reported the news to the emperor and the emperor found a child with surname Kim was in the box. He then named him Kim Alji， and the wood was correspondingly called Gyerim. Gyerim was an important place for later dynasties and now it is a tourist attraction.
When King Shengde was in power， he implemented a special policy to select talents. When he died， there was water in the tomb， and the coffin had to be hanged， so the tomb is also called “Hanging Tomb”， whose scale is greater than the tomb of Xingde King. The soft grass in the middle extends to the gate of the tomb， and on both sides there are pines， Huabiao stone， civil and military Wengzhong statues， stone lions， etc. On the stone outside the gate， there are still twelve gods， escorting around the tomb. The twelve gods， introduced from China in the period of uniting Silla， record time and orientation， and at first they were made of clay and buried in tombs， and then slowly became the patron saint of the tomb. It is also the main content of carving on sunny side of pagoda， stone lamp and other Buddhist art. The square tomb， adjacent to the tomb of King Shengde ， is located in the west of Dade Mountain. The master of the tomb has not been proven. It is very close to the tomb of Shengde King， and maybe that he was an outstanding civil servant or military commander who was allowed to be buried near the king.
The National Gyeongju Museum
National Gyeongju Museum，consisting of archaeological museum， art museum， the wild goose duck pool pavilion and outdoor exhibition hall， is the second high-level museum in Korea only inferior to the National Seoul Museum. The museum adjoins to the Royal Tomb Group， the Observatory， and Gyeongju Moon City. It was set up in 1945 as a branch of the South Korea’s National Museum and in 1975 it became the National Gyeongju Museum. It mainly displayed all kinds of cultural heritage from prehistoric times， ancient Silla， Kaya cultural circle to the era of uniting Silla.
When we arrived， many primary and middle school students in Gyeongju were studying in the front of the stone statues guided by their teachers. The students were naive， laughing and saying， adding a lot of vitality to the heavy and rich atmosphere of history.
Our first visiting aim was the bell of King Shengde . The bell was made of bronze， 3.36 meters high， and it weighs 23 tons. It was said that， when the bell was casted， a nine year old girl died as sacrifice， and when the bell was finished， it sounded like Amy， similar to the sound of “Mum” in Korean， so the bell was named as Amy bell. On the outside of the bell， there are the statues of Fly Apsaras and inscriptions， and the appearance and structure of the Fly Apsaras are almost the same as those in Dunhuang Cave， while the obvious different part is their gestures： the Apsaras in Duhuang are dancing freely while those in Korea are kneeling，which indicates that Sengde King’s desire for going to the Elysian Fields was so strong and sincere.
During the visit， Zheng Shouyi， a cultural scholar， representative of South Korean Cultural Exchanging Institute， and professor of Korea Dankook University went for an inspection in Gyeongju from Seoul. Professor Zheng has lived in China for more than 30 years， and understands Chinese， so it was very convenient for our communication. We had a happy visit and made timely discussions.
The cultural exhibitions that the archaeological museum exhibit can trace the history of Gyeongju back to the Stone Age of 5.4 to 5.6 ten thousand years ago. There are many representative relics there， which continue the ancient history and culture， and move forward with the waves of the long river of human civilization. In 57 BC， Silla was established， gradually merger some small kingdoms， and then it walked into the boom period in an all-round way. Chinese advocates jade，while Silla people worships gold， and so Silla is known as the “golden state”. The golden crown， golden crown cap， butterfly-shape accessories and waistbands， unearthed from No.98 Ancient Tomb， embody the extraordinary wisdom and excellent skills of Silla people. Among the ornaments that matched with the plastrons， necklaces and pendants， there is a kind of fishlike hook-shaped objects that are called“Crooked fish”，“Crooked jade” or “Hook jade” in South Korea. Gold vessels， Glass lamps and Hook jades unearthed from Cheonmachong seem to tell us a historical story about the communication between the Maritime Silk Road and the whole world.
According to the introduction of Professor Zheng Shouyi， there are a lot of archaeological sites displaying the frequent communication via sea route between the Korean peninsula and the south sea coast， including some living linguistic fossils. About one hundred years ago， American missionary Homer Herbert raised the issues. However， his issues did not attract the attention of academic fields. Shortly before， Professor Zheng and other scholars went to the southern India and Sri Lanka， and they found that there are more than 500 Korean and Tamil words bearing the same pronunciation and meaning， which is by no means an incidental coincidence.
Among these exhibits， besides the twelve earthly branches stone statues， there are many bronze weights， wax stone statues， stone statues， clay sculptures， bronze statues， and all the statues have an animal head as Chinese shuxiang. Some statues are delicate or luxuriant， some simple or vivid， some simple and concise， which all express the ancient Silla people’s aesthetic tastes and the attitudes toward life.
In the hall of Buddhist arts， all kinds of exhibits present the inclusiveness of Korean ethnic culture and the prosperity of Buddhist art. The Silla roofing tiles made in the period of the Three Kingdoms are also unique， and they have many types of decorative designs. The lotus pattern is not identical in the expression forms and carving techniques. The face lines unearthed in Gyeongju are quiet and smiling， which reminded us of the bodybuilding sculptures in Greek and Roman. There are also familiar lines that are common in Dunhuang murals.
In the second display hall of Buddhist art， most of the exhibits are gold and copper statues， stone statues， cliff statues， eleven-side Avalokitesvara statue， fortification stelae， and many other stelae. The techniques of stone carving arts are simple and skilled， warm and elegant， implicative but not overcautious. They form a powerful array of stone carving arts， which reveals Silla people’s aesthetic ability and glorious achievements， and also indicates the reasons why that dynasty was powerful and prosperous.
We stood before every piece for a long time， unwilling to leave. Unconsciously， the closing hour was coming. Going out of the exhibition hall， the night was quite cold. Walking on the quiet road， my heart was full of pleasure， and the admiration for South Korean people’s respects for culture. Under the sun， what is more significant than united and fighting for a common goal？ The Tenacity of the Mountain and the Broadness of the Sea
The first two days were spent learning the people， visiting the museums and in this way I had a perceptual knowledge about the situation of Korean peninsula and its communication with the world through land and sea. The pieces of information got through reading became fresh and alive in their homeland.
It was a precious transnational fieldwork.
On October 30th， “International Academic Conference of Marine Silk Road” was held in Hilton Hotel in Gyeongju.
Mr. Zhu Luorong（Vice executive governor of North Gyeongsang）， Mr. Jin Rihuan（Chief director of the silk road business department of North Gyeongsang）， professor Li Dajun（Space environment engineering department in Han Dong university）， Mr. Jin Huilin（Chief director of expedition team of the silk road business department of North Gyeongsang）， Mr. Jin Dongcheng（Director of East Sea institute）， and Mr. PeiKui （one of architecture experts） attended the meeting， and about 150 university professors and students were present.
Mr Zhu Luorong exchanged business cards with me and politely said： “I am a descendant of Zhu Xi.”
The academic meeting began on time， which has four parts： the opening， the speech of policy， keynote address and the comprehensive discussion.
The academic conference was organized very rigorously， and linked close in every detail. The scholars strictly abided by the time when they made a speech， and Ms Tian Youzhen meticulously made the translation. With her help， I learned the rough content of south Korean scholars’ report， such as Prehistoric Cultural Exchange between Korea and Japan from the Cultural Relics， the Communication Port of the Marine Silk Road （professor Hong XiJun of southeast Asia institute in South Korea）， Marine Trade between Zhang Baogao and Asia （professor Li Youzhen）， the Maritime Silk Road and the East Sea： History and Future （Pei Guicheng in university of Lingnan Dokdo Institute）， India and Central Asia in the Eyes of Hui Chao， The Significance of Promoting the History of the Marine Silk Road， The Maritime Activities and Trade of Zhang Baogao Ship Group， the Recover Case through Zhang Baoga’s Original Ship， The Proposal Aiming to Ensure the Safety of Marine Silk Road Adventure， Studying the Expedition Route of Marine Silk Road According to the Ancient Climate and Ocean Currents， the Flexible Use of Marine Science on the Marine Silk Road Exploration， etc. In spite of Ms Tian Youzhen’s professionalism， she still cannot keep pace with the speed of scholars’ speaking. But I still learned some new knowledge about historical cultural exchange and got a lot of inspiration. For example， according to Marine Trade between Zhang Baogao and Asia （Professor Li Youzhen）， I first knew about the general who made a significant contribution to the maritime trade.
Zhang Baogao， born in 790 in Silla， liked martial arts and was good at swimming. In the year of 807， he joined Wuning Army of Tang Dynasty with his friend Tang Jiawu， and after many victories， he was promoted as a young general in 819. In 824， he established Fa Hua Temple in Red Mountain， Shandong. Every Mid-autumn festival， Silla people there would gather in the temple， singing and dancing， to celebrate the festival， and then Red Mountain Fa Hua Temple became the culture activity center and station for Silla people to visit Tang Dynasty. A famous Japanese Buddhist monk， on his way to seek Buddhist scriptures in China， was helped by the local officials， residents and monks in Fa Hua Temple for three times， and with their help， he went to Wutai Mountain， Chang’an and other places. After the Monk returned to Japan， he let his disciples build Fa Hua Temple to show his affection to Red Mountain people. He also compiled Records on the Way to Tang， which made the Red Mountain Fa Hua Temple famous at home and abroad.
In 828， Zhang Baogao returned to Silla， got the king’s approval， set up the base camp in Qinghai Town， recruited 10，000 islanders as soldiers， and swept away many strands of Japanese pirates. He also organized large fleets to make sea transportation and commercial trade with China and Japan， and a system of commerce that connecting many place of China， Japan， and Silla was established. The number of Silla people who went to China to do business， to study， to work and to reside increased rapidly， and there were more than ten Silla villages only in the area of Red Mountain. There were many Silla yards providing services for Silla people on their journey through Shandong.
Another important historical figure who was mentioned many times by the scholars is a Silla monk Hui Chao， born in the year of 700 or so. In his youth， he went to five India states to visit the sacred lands， and he successively reached East India， Central India， South India， West India， North India， and then returned to Chang’an through Persia， Afghanistan， Pamir， Kashgar， Qiuci and Yanqi， and he wrote the book Records of the Journey to Five Indian Kingdoms， which recorded the countries， regions and states he visited from China to ancient India， including the geography of northwest China， the religions， the spread situation of Buddhism， the people and customs there， etc. The book was composed of three volumes， but it has been lost. Hui Lin kept some of the contents in his book. In 1908， Paul Pelliot discovered a volume excerpted by a person of Tang Dynasty in Dunhuang， attaching three Chinese poems. After the discovery of the fragments， scholars paid much attention to it， and many researches have been done.
When the humanities scholars finished their lectures， the scholars of natural science made speeches. They demonstrated the ship performance， their displacement， and some serious questions as “how to deal with pirates” were discussed. The humanists hoped to drive the sailing ship of Silla era， which would be more real and meaningful， while the scientists thought that the safety should be put in the first position.
The rich cultural accumulation of Korean peninsula is indicated by those Wengzhong， sculptures， decoratives，fittings， and buildings that perfectily combined the vitality with the art. For the first time， I came into deep contact with the Marine Silk Road， which is undoubtedly a gluttonous feast to me. A nation， no matter how much is its population and land area， as long as she can create a culture that is conducive to human， it is strong. Strong mind and strong culture make a real and eternal strong nation.
（ Translated by Gao Meimei ）
为拓展丝绸之路文化，庆尚北道成立专门办事机构——“韩国丝绸之路项目部”，负责人是金南镒先生。2013年7月，我们在兰州大学举办的“敦煌和丝绸之路国际学术研讨会”中相识，新罗故地见面，很高兴。寒暄几句，他就满怀激情介绍韩国丝绸之路项目的主要成果及今后计划。2013年最大成果是，3月21日至4月4日从庆州到西安第一批探险队考察（76人，行程5000公里）和7月17日至8月31日从西安市到伊斯坦布尔的第二批探险队考察（24人，行程1.6万公里）。两批探险队耗时两月，途经中国、哈萨克斯坦、吉尔吉斯斯坦、乌兹别克斯坦、土库曼斯坦、伊朗和土耳其，完成对陆上丝绸之路的激情穿越。他们将于2014年举行“海洋丝绸之路全球大长征”。即将举办的“海洋丝绸之路国际学术会议”就是从学术、科学、安全保障等方面进行论证。
晚餐后，热爱文化、言谈举止都洋溢着文化气息的孙文植提议到咖啡馆里继续聊天。我欣然接受。咖啡馆对面百米外的地方，竟然是长着几棵古树、虽经历千年但威仪不减的庞大王陵。孙先生打开手机中的文物图片，说这类墓葬结构和形式与斯基泰人极其相似。中国《史记》、《汉书》称斯基泰人为塞种、尖帽塞人或萨迦人，善养马，属南俄草原上印欧语系东伊朗语族，是史载最早的游牧民族，游牧地从俄罗斯东部一直延伸到内蒙古和鄂尔多斯沙漠。
遥远岁月长河中，斯基泰人与新罗人先祖有着怎样的联系？
就这个话题，我们聊得很多，很远，在新罗历史文化中徜徉。
我感慨说：“多年来，这是首次在距古代文化遗址最近的地方喝咖啡。”
“不是距离最近，你就坐在文化的中心！”孙先生微笑说。
古老而鲜活的新罗文化
10月29日，孙先生做向导，考察庆州文化遗址。
孙先生热情，开朗，健谈，滔滔不绝介绍新罗历史文化，似乎要把这块古老土地上每个文化碎片都毫无保留呈现出来。
新罗文化发源地庆州位于庆尚北道东南庆州盆地中部，四面环山，东有明治山，西有玉女峰、仙绦峰，南有金鳌山，北有金刚山。又有西川、南川、北川三水汇流，环绕城邑，山河壮美。公元前57年，古代新罗王在此建都，历三国鼎立时代、新罗统一全朝鲜时代，923年，被高丽所灭，绵延繁荣近千年。《三国史记》记载，新罗古都仿造唐长安城而建，昌盛时人口超过百万，是庆州市总人口的九倍。庆州是韩国、朝鲜半岛历史文化及艺术文物最丰富的地方，被誉为没有围墙的文化博物馆——历史遗迹遍布于市区和郊区，星罗棋布，有50多座王陵，有新罗时代外城（山城）、王宫（半月城）及新罗第五代婆娑王所筑的满月城，有曾经举行曲水流觞之宴的离宫旧址，有亚洲最早石建天文台之一的“瞻星台”，有文武王所建水湖枣雁鸭池（出土过很多文物），有受隋朝影响雕刻的三体石佛，还有芬皇寺、皇龙寺遗址、金庾信将军墓、良洞村、佛国寺、石窟庵、鸡林、石冰库等历史文化遗址，短期内也根本无法全部观瞻。
孙先生选择最合理路线，争取让我多看几处文化遗址。
首先是静卧于庆州市江西面六通里的兴德王陵。汽车在天然“氧吧”中行驶，丝毫不觉得乏味。山间秋叶色彩斑斓，令人陶醉。路边常常有喜鹊悠然飞翔，欢快叫唤，声音与甘肃兰州、白银、古浪、民勤等地同类一样，听不出方言障碍。
孙先生指着路牌说：“这是标示通往李彦迪家乡良洞村的。”
李彦迪是朝鲜时期李朝哲学家，字复古，号晦斋、紫溪翁，他非常崇拜朱熹，1530年任司谏期间受排斥，在庆州紫玉山隐居七年，从事理学研究。1537年出仕，10年后，又被流放江界，直至逝世。李彦迪著《晦斋集》13卷，哲学代表作有《书忘斋忘机堂无极太极说后》、《答忘记堂书》、《大学章句补遗》、《中庸经衍义》、《求仁录》、《奉先杂义》等。
宋明理学传播到韩国，并且影响如此之大，以前竟然不知道，惭愧啊。
汽车穿过一片静谧田野，到达兴德王陵区。阳光明媚，天气晴朗，远山温润，近林清幽，烘托王陵之肃穆气氛。平缓山坡上，松林苍翠，古意盎然。松树香气清新，滋润心肺。我们怀着崇敬心情，瞻仰王陵。松林尽头，豁然开朗，朴素简约的兴德王陵出现。通向陵墓的神道满地绿茵，两边松树整齐如新。守卫神道的是两对站立翁仲，一对武官，一对文官。武官石像竟然是身材魁梧、相貌威严、大眼阔脸、八字胡须的西域人形象！我推测其原型是粟特人。孙先生说，曾有中亚游客来此，也认定是他们先祖的相貌特征。兴德王用外族武将为自己守灵，思想解放，胸怀开阔。也正是这种精神气质，才能促进物质文化交流。据说中国茶叶也是兴德王执政时传入的。
基于对兴德王的崇敬，大家在翁仲像前流连忘返，探究品评。翁仲原指匈奴人祭天神像，但历史上确有其人。翁仲原名阮翁仲，勇猛超常，将兵守临洮，威震匈奴。翁仲死后，秦始皇铸其铜像，置于咸阳宫司马门外，称“金人”、“铜人”、“金狄”、“长狄”、“遐狄”。其后，人们把立于宫阙庙堂和陵墓前的铜人或石人称为“翁仲”。后来，又专指陵墓前及神道两侧的文武官员石像。翁仲石像从匈奴到秦汉、到唐朝，再到新罗，分明是一条穿越历史、跨越民族的文化交流之路。
我们踏着柔软草地，躬身前行，一步步，到达封土堆。兴德王陵状若馒头，圆形，以石为基，有围栏。护石围绕一周，雕刻着牛、虎、蛇、猴、兔等十二支神像，虽经受1200年风风雨雨，但依然栩栩如生，憨态可掬，仿佛沧桑岁月没有在它们的心灵中留下任何痕迹。这些可爱的神灵与翁仲石像、松树、鸟鹊、白云、阳光一起，默默陪伴兴德王及王妃章合夫人，不舍昼夜。据说，兴德王登基后第一年，王妃与世长辞，兴德王悲痛不已。11年后，他辞世后与章合夫人合葬。另据《三国遗事》记载，兴德王曾养过一对鸳鸯，母鸳鸯因病死去。兴德王将镜子放入鸟笼，希望它借己形象忆“亡妻”。公鸳鸯却误以为镜中影像是母鸳鸯，拼命叩啄，最终死亡。这段悲情故事让人动容。 正惬意享受王陵区的恬淡幽静，忽然，一头小鹿从左边松林中跃出，蹦蹦跳跳，跑过山地草坪，进入右边松林。
参观完兴德王陵，我们来到东国大学博物馆。东国大学由佛僧初创，有100多年历史，总部设在首尔，庆州是分校。在校学生都得选修佛教方面的课程。
博物馆负责人李东宪先生迎接。进展馆大门，一扇扇古老文化的窗户在这现代文明高度发达的城市中心陆续打开，大家尽情享受古新罗人在庆州创造的东方文化饕餮盛宴。鸭形土器、骨壶、土偶、莲花纹瓦当、鬼面瓦、塔像文砖、平瓦当上的万历四十年铭文、金铜佛像、金铜菩萨像、石造罗汉像、蜡石制十二支像片、壁画、蜡石制舍利壶、铜镜、龙钮、华严经石碑残片、文武大王陵碑石残片等，每一物件都是一部绵长历史，每一形态都是一段美丽生动的文化交融故事。我深深感到，对于丰厚的艺术和思想而言，即便文字能够做到像赑屃那样善于驮负，即便能够洋洋洒洒地书写历史，也不可能面面俱到，更无法触及到每个细致入微的层面。
没想到，韩国竟有如此灿烂辉煌的古代文化艺术。惊叹中浏览，浏览中惊叹。孙先生见我如此真实地陶醉，浑身上下都流溢出油然而生的“民族自豪感”。他对文化的挚爱程度不亚于任何一位中国学者。
参观完博物馆，大家到附近的谷食店小憩。这家餐馆大门两边贴有对联：“立春大吉，建阳多庆。”内部陈设简朴，极富生活气息。半块笑脸雕塑，一串红绿辣椒，不知名的干花，中国书法作品“龙”，随意布置。客人来来往往，络绎不绝。配菜多是韩国泡菜，主食是一大碗面。此前，我以为兰州牛大碗独霸天下，端起这个碗，觉得更像小盆子，称为“碗”都屈才了。
用过餐，告别李东宪先生，匆匆前往坐落在庆州南部的圣德王陵。道路两边，近处是农田，远处是披满华丽秋装的山，随心所欲，自然开合，有诗意，有禅意，有古意，城市化痕迹被消解得干干净净。
圣德王陵主人是新罗第38代元圣王金敬信（785～798）。新罗从第13代国王味邹王开始，绝大部分国王都是金氏。据传，庆州金氏始祖阏智诞生于鸡林。新罗脱解王时代，瓠公在一片叫始林、鸠林的树林听到鸡啼，走近，看到一只金柜挂在树枝上，立即向皇上报告。皇上取下金柜，打开盖子，里面有个姓金的小孩，便为他取名金阏智，树林也改称鸡林。历朝历代，鸡林备受重视，现在成了游览胜地。
圣德王当政时实行“读书出身科制度”选用人才，很有作为。圣德王驾崩下葬，地下有水，棺材只好挂着，因此王陵又称 “挂陵”。挂陵，规模大于兴德王，中间的松软草地带延展到陵墓封土处，两边是松林、华表石、文武翁仲像、石狮子等。陵墓封土外面石上依然是十二支神像，护卫一周。十二支（地支）是记录时间和方位的神灵，在统一新罗时期由中国传入，最初以土偶陪葬品形式出现，此后慢慢演变为陵墓的守护神，也是佛塔、浮屠、石灯等佛教艺术中阳面雕刻的主要内容。
与圣德王陵毗邻的是九政里方形坟，坐落在大德山南侧丘陵末端平地上。这座坟的主人至今未考证出来。它距离圣德王陵非常近，是不是被允许陪葬的功勋卓著的文臣或武将？
国立庆州博物馆
国立庆州博物馆由考古馆、美术馆、雁鸭池馆和室外展览四部分组成，是仅次于汉城国立博物馆的高水平博物馆。它毗邻新罗皇室墓葬群、瞻星台、庆州月城，成立于1945年，初为韩国国立中央博物馆庆州分部，以后不断扩建，1975年升级为国立庆州博物馆，主要展出史前时代、古新罗、伽倻文化圈到统一新罗时代的各种文化遗产。
我们抵达时，正逢庆州中、小学生被老师引导着在露天石雕像前参观学习。学生天真烂漫，欢声笑语，为沉重丰厚的历史氛围中平添许多生机。
首先拜谒的是馆外的圣德大王神钟。这尊大钟用青铜铸造，高3.36米，重23吨。传说，当年铸钟时曾将一名9岁女童作为祭品，铸成后发出“爱米莱”的声音（韩语，妈妈），故称爱米莱钟。钟体上有铭文和手持香炉的飞天像。飞天构图、形象几近敦煌壁画中的唐代飞天，明显不同处是敦煌飞天多自由舞蹈状，而钟体飞天却呈跪姿，由此可见圣德大王心心念念欲往极乐世界的愿望是多么深切，多么虔诚。
参观期间，文化学者、韩国文明交流研究所社团法人、韩国檀国大学史学科郑守一教授从首尔到庆州进行考察。郑教授曾在中国生活过30多年，懂汉语，交流很方便。“乐莫乐兮新相知”，大家愉快参观，随时讨论。
考古馆展出的文物把庆州历史上溯到54～56万年以前的石器时代。最具代表性的是蔚山细竹里贝塚、庆州隍城洞、庆州下西里和蔚珍厚浦里遗迹，出土了用岩石、鹰翅骨加工而成的鱼叉，以及陶器、石器、饰物、岩画等，还有青铜器、铁器、项链等文物。它们延续了古老的历史文化，并且随着人类文明长河的波浪不断向前推进，公元前57年，新罗建国。以后，又陆续兼并伽倻、百济和高句丽等国，完成统一大业，进入全面繁荣期。中国崇尚玉，而新罗推崇黄金，素有“黄金之国”美称。天马冢、98号古墓出土的新罗金皇冠、金制冠帽、蝴蝶状冠饰物、腰带等金器体现了新罗人的非凡智慧和卓越技艺。与胸饰、项链、垂饰搭配的饰品中，常常可见一种造型像鱼的弯钩形状物件，韩国民间称作“曲鱼” 、“曲玉”，学术界则叫“勾玉”。
天马冢出土的金器、玻璃盏和大量勾玉，似乎幽幽诉说着遥远岁月里新罗经过海上丝绸之路与西方世界交流的传奇故事。
郑守一教授介绍，韩半岛通过海路与南方海路沿岸地区间的交流遗迹非常多，至今存在着一些语言学“活化石”。百年前，美国传教士豪末·赫尔波特就提出此问题，却没有引起学术界足够重视。前不久，郑教授与其他学者到南印度和斯里兰卡调查，发现韩语与泰米尔语发音、语意相同的词竟达500多个。这肯定不是偶然巧合。
展品中，除十二支神面石像，还有以其为表现题材的青铜秤砣、蜡石像、石雕像、泥塑像、青铜像等，都是人身“支”首，有的精巧华丽，有的细节逼真，有的神情生动，有的简洁朴拙，从不同角度折射出古代新罗人的审美情趣和生活态度。 佛教美术厅，不管是形制独特的砖石塔、土塔、舍利供养容器，还是绿松石、玛瑙、玻璃珠、水晶石、玉珠、海螺、金银器之类供养品，抑或用汉文书写的塔志碑，都呈现出韩民族文化的包容性和佛教艺术的繁盛。三国时期的新罗屋瓦也独具特色，有莲花纹、宝相花纹、唐草纹、人面纹、迦陵频加纹、麒麟纹、龙纹等。莲花纹在表现形式和雕刻手法上各不相同。庆州灵庙寺遗址出土的人面纹表情安静，面带微笑，使人联想到希腊、罗马的健美雕塑。迦陵频加纹则一点都不陌生，是敦煌壁画中的常见题材。
佛教艺术第二展厅中大多陈列金铜佛像、石雕佛像、摩崖佛像、十一面观音菩萨像、明活山城筑城碑、北汉山真兴王巡守碑、壬申誓记石、意次顿殉教碑等雕塑。石刻艺术品手法朴拙，技艺高超，温润而不失大气，含蓄却不觉拘谨，它们组成强大的石雕艺术阵容，彰显着新罗时期人们的审美能力和辉煌成就，也透露出那个王朝之所以强盛、繁华的历史密码。
我们在每一件文物前都驻足许久，不忍离开。不知不觉，闭馆时间到了。出展厅，夜色微茫，寒气袭人。走在静谧的路上，我的内心充实、愉悦，为韩国人对文化的尊重感到由衷的敬佩。天地之大，还有什么比齐心协力为共同的目标而奋斗更有意义？
山的坚韧，海的开阔
前两天接地气，接人气，看博物馆，对韩半岛通过陆路、海路与世界的历史状况有了感性认识。相关文献知识也在它们的故土复活了，鲜活了。
这真是一次难得的跨国田野考察。
10月30日，“海洋丝绸之路国际学术会议”在庆州希尔顿酒店举行。
庆尚北道行政副知事朱洛荣先生、庆尚北道丝绸之路事业推进部总括企划首席处长金日焕先生、韩东大学空间环境工学部教授李大俊、庆尚北道丝绸之路事业推进部探险队运营首席处长金惠麟先生、东海研究所所长金东成先生、建筑学专家裴奎星等先生陆续到达。参加会议的还有其他大学教授、学生150人左右。
儒雅的朱洛荣先生同我交换名片后，彬彬有礼说：“我是朱熹的后代。”
学术会议准时开始，内容分为开幕式、政策发言、主题发言和综合讨论。
韩国学术会议组织得非常严谨，每个环节都很细致。学者发表演讲，都严格遵守时间。田有珍女士一丝不苟地翻译。在她帮助下，我了解到韩国学者报告的大概内容，如《从文物看史前时代的韩日文化交流》、《海洋丝绸之路的交流港口》（韩国东南亚大研究所洪喜俊教授）、《张保皋与亚洲的海上交易》（李有珍教授）、《海上丝绸之路与东海：历史与未来》（岭南大学独岛研究所裴桂成）、《慧超看的印度与中央亚西亚》、《推进海洋丝绸之路的海洋文化史的意义》、《张保皋船团的海上活动与交易》、《通过张保皋原船舶的新罗船复原事例》、《为确保海洋丝绸之路探险船舶的安全性的提案》、《根据古代气候与海流，研究海洋丝绸之路探险航路》、《在海洋丝绸之路探险上，海洋科学的活用》等。
尽管田有珍非常敬业，仍然赶不上学者发言速度。但我还是了解到一些新的历史文化交流知识，得到很多启发。例如，通过李有珍教授演讲的《张保皋与亚洲的海上交易》，我首次了解到这位对海上贸易做出重大贡献的将军。
张保皋，790年生于新罗，好武术，善水性。807年与好友郑年入唐参加武宁军，屡建战功，819年擢迁至武宁军小将。824年在赤山（今石岛湾）建立赤山法华院。每年农历八月十五，新罗人在这里集聚，载歌载舞，欢度节日，赤山法华院遂成为新罗人文化活动中心和往返大唐的驿站。日本国佛教天台宗高僧圆仁随遣唐使滕原常嗣一行西渡求法，先后三次客居法华院，得到当地官吏、居民和法华院僧侣资助，再往五台山、长安等地求法巡礼。圆仁归国后，为感谢赤山人民的情意，让弟子在日本京都小野山以赤山为名修建赤山禅院。他还编著《入唐求法巡礼行记》，使赤山法华院名扬海内外。
828年，张保皋回到新罗，奏请兴德王批准，清海镇成立大本营，招募1万岛民组成军队，荡平多股日本海盗。他又组建庞大船队往返新罗、中国、日本，进行海运和商业贸易，并在莞岛象皇峰、济州岛河源洞建法华院，与山东半岛赤山法华院互为海运贸易联络点，形成以清海镇为大本营，以赤山（荣成石岛镇）、登州（山东蓬莱）、莱州（山东莱州）、泗州（安徽泗县）、楚州（江苏淮安）、扬州（江苏扬州）、明州（浙江宁波）、泉州（福建泉州）及日本九州为基点的海运商业贸易网络。新罗入唐经商、求学、从业、居留的人迅速增多，仅赤山一带就有十多个新罗村。从赤山到文登、牟平、登州、青州、临淄、长山等地沿途有许多专为新罗人提供服务的新罗院。
学者多次提到的另一位重要历史人物是新罗僧人慧超。慧超大约出生在700年，青年时前往五印度诸国巡礼，先后到东印度、中印度、南印度、西印度、北印度，再经波斯、阿富汗、帕米尔、喀什、龟兹、焉耆返回长安，著有《往五天竺国传》，记录从中国去古印度探求圣迹所经历国家、地区、城邦以及中国西北地理、宗教信仰、佛教流传情况及风土习俗等。原书三卷，已佚。慧琳所著《一切经音义》中有摘录。1908年，伯希和在敦煌藏经洞发现唐人节录的一卷本，并附有五言汉诗三首。此传残卷发现后，引起学界重视，纷纷考证、笺释、翻译。
人文学者演讲完，自然科学研究领域学者发言。他们对考察船性能、排水量等进行论证，甚至涉及到“遇到海盗如何应对”之类严肃命题。人文学者希望能驾驶新罗时代的帆船出航，那样更真实，更有意义。科学家则认为安全第一。
韩半岛丰厚的文化积淀蕴含在那些将生活气息与艺术风格完美结合的翁仲、雕塑、装饰、配件及屋宇建筑里。首次如此深入地接触到海洋丝绸之路，无疑是饕餮大宴。一个民族，不管她的人数是多少，也不管她拥有多大的国土面积，只要她能创造出有益于人类的文化，就已经足够强大了。心灵强大，文化强大，才是真正的、永恒的强大！
In late October 2013， invited by South Korea？North Gyeongsang， I had the pleasure to investigate the old Silla and attended the “Ocean Silk Road International Academic Conference”， which was sponsored by North Gyeongsang and North Gyeongsang Times， undertaken by South Korea Marine Science and Technology Institute and jointly held by South Korea Marine Consortium， South Korea Maritime University and the government of Gyeongju city. In order to develop Silk Road culture， a special institution named Korea Silk Road Project was established in South Korea North Gyeongsang with Mr. Jin Nanyi as its manager. I met Mr. Jin in International Academic Conference of Dunhuang and Silk Road sponsored by Lanzhou University in July， 2013. This time we were pleased to meet again in Silla and after the simple greetings， he introduced the main achievements and future plans of KoreaSouth Silk Road items passionately. The eminent achievements in 2013 are the two batches of expeditions. The first batch of expedition consisted of 76 people who had traveled 5000 kilometers from Gyeongju to Xi’an， from 21st March to 4th April. The second batch of expedition consisted of 24 people who had traveled 16，000 kilometers from Xi’an to Istanbul， from 17th July to 31st August. Both of the expeditions had traveled for two months through China， Kazakhstan， Kyrgyz， Uzbek， Turkmen， Iran and Turkey and they had completed the journey of the Land Silk Road full of passion. They will hold “Ocean Silk Road Global March” in 2014 and “The International Academic Conference of Ocean Silk Road” will be held， in which discussions will be made from the academic， scientific and security aspects.
After supper， I embraced the invitation from Sun Wenzhi and chatted in a café. Mr. Sun was a gentleman who was fond of cultures and whose speech and manners were full of cultural atmosphere. About 100 meters on the opposite of the café， there surprisingly stood a huge and dignified Mausoleum surrounded by several ancient trees which have experienced thousand years’ winds and rains. Mr. Sun showed the heritage photos on his cell phone and told me that the structure and form of such tomb are similar to the Scythians’. In Chinese Historical Records and The Book of Former Han， it is recorded that the Scythians is called the Sakas， the Hat Sai or the Sakya people， who was good at horse keeping. The Scythians originated from Eastern Iran belonging to the Indo-European language family and lived in the southern Russian steppe. It was the recorded oldest nomadic ethic， whose nomadic region extended from the eastern Russia to Mongolia and Erdos desert.
In the long history， what is the relationship between the Scythians and the ancestors of Silla？
Mr. Sun and I were talking much and deeply and our thoughts were strolling in the history and culture of Silla.
I said emotionally， “It is the first time that I have enjoyed coffee in a place which is so near to the ancient relic.” “Not near”， Mr. Sun smiled， “It is the center of culture that you are in.”
Ancient but Fresh Culture of Silla
On 29th Oct， Mr. Sun guided me to investigate the relics of Gyeongju culture.
He was enthusiastic， optimistic and a great talker to introduce the history and culture of Silla incessantly. It seemed that he wanted to present each fragment of culture in this ancient place without reservation.
Gyeongju city， the origin place of Silla culture， lies in the center part of the south-east Gyeongju Basin of South Korea North Gyeongsang. This place is surrounded by mountains， with Meiji Mountain in the east， Yunv Mount and Xiantao Mount in the west， Gold Dragon-Turtle Mountain in the south and Kumgang Mountain in the north. Besides， it is an interchange of three rivers named Xi Chuan， Nan Chuan and Bei Chuan， which makes it a splendid and grand city.In 57 BC， the ancient King of Silla built the capital city here， and as a capital the city lasted prosperously for near one thousand years， during which it experienced the Three Kingdoms stage and the union of the whole Korea by Silla， till it was destroyed by Koryo in 923 BC. In History of the Three Kingdoms， it was recorded that the capital city of Silla was modeled on Chang’an City in Tang Dynasty. During its most prosperous time， the population of it was over a million， which was nine times the population of Gyeongju city. Gyeongju is known as “a culture museum without enclosure”， because it is a place where the historical， cultural， and artistic relics are most plentiful in South Korea and Korean Peninsular. Here， the relics scatter all over the place both in urban and rural areas， including more than 50 Royal Tombs， such as the outer city（Yamashiro） built in Silla times， the palace（Gyeongiu Wdseong）， the Mang etsu-ji built by the fifth Dancing King of Silla， the royal detached palace where the game of floating wine had been held， one of the earliest Asian stone-built observatories， the Water Lake Jujube Wild Geese and Ducks Pool built by Munmu of Silla， and the Three Body Buddha which were built under the influence of Chinese Sui Dynasty. Besides， there are also numerous relics such as Bunhwangsa Pagoda， the ruins of Royal Dragon Temple， the tomb of General Kimyu Xin， Liang Dong village， Buddhist Temple， Cave Temple， Gyeerim， Rock-glacial Creep and other precious relics which can not be viewed totally within a short time.
Mr. Sun chose the most reasonable route to let me see more cultural sites. The first is the Tomp of King Heungdeok， which is located in a village six kilometers away across the river of Gyeongju city. Our car was running in natural “oxygen bar”， and the travel was not boring at all. The autumn leaves on the mountains are gorgeous and intoxicating. Some magpies flied leisurely on both sides of the road， singing and dancing， sounding the same as those in Lanzhou， Baiyin， Gulang， Minqin and other places， no language barriers were felt.
Pointing to the signs， Mr. Sun said： “This sign marks the road leading to Liangdong village， the hometown of Li Yandi.”
Li Yandi is a philosopher in ancient Korea and an admirer of Zhu Xi. In 1530， being an official crowded out， Li Yandi lived in seclusion for seven years in Gyeongju， studying Neo-Confucianism. In 1537， he returned to official circles， and ten years later， he was exiled again until death. Li Yandi wrote 13 volumes of Hui Study Records， and many famous philosophy books.
I felt shamed that I did not know that Neo-Confucianism had been spread into Korea， and its influence had been so great.
Passing through some quiet fields， we arrived at the Tomp of King Heungdeok. It is clear， sunny， and foggy mountains far away and the quiet woods nearby add a solemn atmosphere to the tomb. On the gentle slopes， the pine forest is green and exuberant， smelling pure and fresh. We looked at the tomb with reverence. At the end of the pine forest， there was the Tomp of King Heungdeok. The way to the tomb is full of green， and the pine trees on both sides are definitely tidy. Standing in front of the tomb are two pairs of Whenzhong， one pair are civil ones and the other pair are military ones， who are tall with burly， majestic looks， large eyes， broad face， and mustache looks like the western people. I guess its prototype is Sogdian. Mr Sun said that some central Asian tourists also considered these officials have the features of their ancestors. King Heungdeok， who had an open mind and thought， let foreign military commanders guard his tomb. It is this spirit and temperament that can promote material and culture communication. It is said that Chinese tea is also introduced into the country when King Heungdeok was in power.
Because of the reverence for King Heungdeok， we lingered around Whenzhong， evaluating the statues. Wengzhong， originally referred to the stone statues of Huns， was a real historical figure named Ruan Wenzhong. He was a very intrepid general guarding Lintao. After his death， the First Emperor of Qin Dynasty built a bronze statue of him and put it outside the gate of Xianyang Palace， called “Gold Warriors”， “Bronze Warriors”， Jindi”， “Changdi”， and “Xiadi”. Since then， the warriors standing before the palace， temple， and tomb were called Wengzhong. Later， only the stone statures of officials standing before tombs were so called. From Huns to Qin Dynasty， Tang Dynasty， and then Silla， WengZhong statue is clearly a way of cultural communication passing through history and crossing nations. We walked on the soft grass， bending forward， step by step， and reached the mound. The tomb of King Heungdeok looks like a mantou， with stone as base and a fence. On the protecting stones were carved the statues of twelve animals such as ox， tiger， snake， monkey， and rabbit. Although they have experienced 1200 years’ ups and downs， they are still lifelike and charmingly naive， as if the time did not leave any imprints in their mind. These adorable deities and Wengzhong statues， pine trees， birds， magpies， white clouds and sun， all of them silently accompanied King Heungdeok and his rani day and night. It is said that the rani died in the first year after King Heungdeok got the power， and the king was in a deep grief. 11 years later， after his death， he was buried together with his rani. According to The Three Kingdoms， King Heungdeok once raised a pair of mandarin ducks， of which the female one died of illness. King Heungdeok put a mirror in the cage for the husband to mourn his wife. However，the male mandarin duck mistakenly assumed that the mirror image was the female one， so he desperately pecked the mirror， and eventually he himself died. This story is very sad and affecting。
When I was enjoying the quietness and comfortableness of the tomb area， suddenly， a fawn jumped out from the left of the pine forest， ran through mountainous lawn to the pine forest on the right.
After the visit to the Tomb of King Heungdeok， we arrived at the Museum of Dongguk University， which was firstly built by the Buddhist monks and had a history of 100 years. Its headquarters was in Seoul， and the one in Gyeongju was its branch school. The students in this university have to take courses of Buddhism.
Mr Li Dongxian， the director of the museum greeted us. Entering the door， with the windows of old culture opened up one by one in a city center of highly developed modern civilization， we enjoyed Oriental cultural feast that ancient Silla people created in Gyeongju. All kinds of figures of Buddha on Duck-shaped earthenware， bone pots， clay image， lotus-pattern eaves tiles， ghost face tiles， tower-like brick and flat eaves tiles， every object has a long history， and every form has a beautiful， vivid， and culturally mixed story. I deeply felt that， for the rich art and thoughts， even if words can carry as bixi， can write history magnificently， they cannot carry all the thoughts or describe the details of arts.
It is surprising that South Korea had such a glorious ancient culture and art. I was amazed when browsing， and browsed with amazement. When he found that I was intoxicated，Mr. Sun showed national pride spontaneously on his whole body. His love for culture is not less than any Chinese scholar. After visiting the museum， we went to the nearby restaurant to have a nap. On both sides of the restaurant’s door， there was a Chinese couplet. Its interior furnished simply， and was full of vitality. A piece of smiling-face sculpture， a string of red and green peppers， unknown dried flowers and Chinese calligraphy “Long” were randomly arranged. The guests come and go endlessly. Most of the dishes are kimchi of South Korean， and the staple food is a big bowl of noodles. Before then， I thought that the bowl of Lanzhou beef noodles is dominating the world. However， this bowl is like a small basin， and it is not appropriate to be called as a bowl.
After finishing the meal， we said goodbye to Mr. Li Dongxian， and then hurried for the tomb King Shengde， which is located in the south of Gyeongju. On both sides of the road， the nearby view is farmland， and the distant view is mountains covered with gorgeous autumn clothing， views full of poetry， Buddhism， and past times， only the traces of urbanization removed neatly.
The host of the tomb of King Shengde is the 38th King---Jin Jingxin （785 ～ 798） in Silla. In Silla， most of kings’ surname is Kim since the 13th king. It is said that the ancestor of Kim in Gyeongju was born in Gyerim. People say that one day Hogong heard a cock crowing in a piece of woods and when he approached it， he saw a golden box hanging on the branches. He immediately reported the news to the emperor and the emperor found a child with surname Kim was in the box. He then named him Kim Alji， and the wood was correspondingly called Gyerim. Gyerim was an important place for later dynasties and now it is a tourist attraction.
When King Shengde was in power， he implemented a special policy to select talents. When he died， there was water in the tomb， and the coffin had to be hanged， so the tomb is also called “Hanging Tomb”， whose scale is greater than the tomb of Xingde King. The soft grass in the middle extends to the gate of the tomb， and on both sides there are pines， Huabiao stone， civil and military Wengzhong statues， stone lions， etc. On the stone outside the gate， there are still twelve gods， escorting around the tomb. The twelve gods， introduced from China in the period of uniting Silla， record time and orientation， and at first they were made of clay and buried in tombs， and then slowly became the patron saint of the tomb. It is also the main content of carving on sunny side of pagoda， stone lamp and other Buddhist art. The square tomb， adjacent to the tomb of King Shengde ， is located in the west of Dade Mountain. The master of the tomb has not been proven. It is very close to the tomb of Shengde King， and maybe that he was an outstanding civil servant or military commander who was allowed to be buried near the king.
The National Gyeongju Museum
National Gyeongju Museum，consisting of archaeological museum， art museum， the wild goose duck pool pavilion and outdoor exhibition hall， is the second high-level museum in Korea only inferior to the National Seoul Museum. The museum adjoins to the Royal Tomb Group， the Observatory， and Gyeongju Moon City. It was set up in 1945 as a branch of the South Korea’s National Museum and in 1975 it became the National Gyeongju Museum. It mainly displayed all kinds of cultural heritage from prehistoric times， ancient Silla， Kaya cultural circle to the era of uniting Silla.
When we arrived， many primary and middle school students in Gyeongju were studying in the front of the stone statues guided by their teachers. The students were naive， laughing and saying， adding a lot of vitality to the heavy and rich atmosphere of history.
Our first visiting aim was the bell of King Shengde . The bell was made of bronze， 3.36 meters high， and it weighs 23 tons. It was said that， when the bell was casted， a nine year old girl died as sacrifice， and when the bell was finished， it sounded like Amy， similar to the sound of “Mum” in Korean， so the bell was named as Amy bell. On the outside of the bell， there are the statues of Fly Apsaras and inscriptions， and the appearance and structure of the Fly Apsaras are almost the same as those in Dunhuang Cave， while the obvious different part is their gestures： the Apsaras in Duhuang are dancing freely while those in Korea are kneeling，which indicates that Sengde King’s desire for going to the Elysian Fields was so strong and sincere.
During the visit， Zheng Shouyi， a cultural scholar， representative of South Korean Cultural Exchanging Institute， and professor of Korea Dankook University went for an inspection in Gyeongju from Seoul. Professor Zheng has lived in China for more than 30 years， and understands Chinese， so it was very convenient for our communication. We had a happy visit and made timely discussions.
The cultural exhibitions that the archaeological museum exhibit can trace the history of Gyeongju back to the Stone Age of 5.4 to 5.6 ten thousand years ago. There are many representative relics there， which continue the ancient history and culture， and move forward with the waves of the long river of human civilization. In 57 BC， Silla was established， gradually merger some small kingdoms， and then it walked into the boom period in an all-round way. Chinese advocates jade，while Silla people worships gold， and so Silla is known as the “golden state”. The golden crown， golden crown cap， butterfly-shape accessories and waistbands， unearthed from No.98 Ancient Tomb， embody the extraordinary wisdom and excellent skills of Silla people. Among the ornaments that matched with the plastrons， necklaces and pendants， there is a kind of fishlike hook-shaped objects that are called“Crooked fish”，“Crooked jade” or “Hook jade” in South Korea. Gold vessels， Glass lamps and Hook jades unearthed from Cheonmachong seem to tell us a historical story about the communication between the Maritime Silk Road and the whole world.
According to the introduction of Professor Zheng Shouyi， there are a lot of archaeological sites displaying the frequent communication via sea route between the Korean peninsula and the south sea coast， including some living linguistic fossils. About one hundred years ago， American missionary Homer Herbert raised the issues. However， his issues did not attract the attention of academic fields. Shortly before， Professor Zheng and other scholars went to the southern India and Sri Lanka， and they found that there are more than 500 Korean and Tamil words bearing the same pronunciation and meaning， which is by no means an incidental coincidence.
Among these exhibits， besides the twelve earthly branches stone statues， there are many bronze weights， wax stone statues， stone statues， clay sculptures， bronze statues， and all the statues have an animal head as Chinese shuxiang. Some statues are delicate or luxuriant， some simple or vivid， some simple and concise， which all express the ancient Silla people’s aesthetic tastes and the attitudes toward life.
In the hall of Buddhist arts， all kinds of exhibits present the inclusiveness of Korean ethnic culture and the prosperity of Buddhist art. The Silla roofing tiles made in the period of the Three Kingdoms are also unique， and they have many types of decorative designs. The lotus pattern is not identical in the expression forms and carving techniques. The face lines unearthed in Gyeongju are quiet and smiling， which reminded us of the bodybuilding sculptures in Greek and Roman. There are also familiar lines that are common in Dunhuang murals.
In the second display hall of Buddhist art， most of the exhibits are gold and copper statues， stone statues， cliff statues， eleven-side Avalokitesvara statue， fortification stelae， and many other stelae. The techniques of stone carving arts are simple and skilled， warm and elegant， implicative but not overcautious. They form a powerful array of stone carving arts， which reveals Silla people’s aesthetic ability and glorious achievements， and also indicates the reasons why that dynasty was powerful and prosperous.
We stood before every piece for a long time， unwilling to leave. Unconsciously， the closing hour was coming. Going out of the exhibition hall， the night was quite cold. Walking on the quiet road， my heart was full of pleasure， and the admiration for South Korean people’s respects for culture. Under the sun， what is more significant than united and fighting for a common goal？ The Tenacity of the Mountain and the Broadness of the Sea
The first two days were spent learning the people， visiting the museums and in this way I had a perceptual knowledge about the situation of Korean peninsula and its communication with the world through land and sea. The pieces of information got through reading became fresh and alive in their homeland.
It was a precious transnational fieldwork.
On October 30th， “International Academic Conference of Marine Silk Road” was held in Hilton Hotel in Gyeongju.
Mr. Zhu Luorong（Vice executive governor of North Gyeongsang）， Mr. Jin Rihuan（Chief director of the silk road business department of North Gyeongsang）， professor Li Dajun（Space environment engineering department in Han Dong university）， Mr. Jin Huilin（Chief director of expedition team of the silk road business department of North Gyeongsang）， Mr. Jin Dongcheng（Director of East Sea institute）， and Mr. PeiKui （one of architecture experts） attended the meeting， and about 150 university professors and students were present.
Mr Zhu Luorong exchanged business cards with me and politely said： “I am a descendant of Zhu Xi.”
The academic meeting began on time， which has four parts： the opening， the speech of policy， keynote address and the comprehensive discussion.
The academic conference was organized very rigorously， and linked close in every detail. The scholars strictly abided by the time when they made a speech， and Ms Tian Youzhen meticulously made the translation. With her help， I learned the rough content of south Korean scholars’ report， such as Prehistoric Cultural Exchange between Korea and Japan from the Cultural Relics， the Communication Port of the Marine Silk Road （professor Hong XiJun of southeast Asia institute in South Korea）， Marine Trade between Zhang Baogao and Asia （professor Li Youzhen）， the Maritime Silk Road and the East Sea： History and Future （Pei Guicheng in university of Lingnan Dokdo Institute）， India and Central Asia in the Eyes of Hui Chao， The Significance of Promoting the History of the Marine Silk Road， The Maritime Activities and Trade of Zhang Baogao Ship Group， the Recover Case through Zhang Baoga’s Original Ship， The Proposal Aiming to Ensure the Safety of Marine Silk Road Adventure， Studying the Expedition Route of Marine Silk Road According to the Ancient Climate and Ocean Currents， the Flexible Use of Marine Science on the Marine Silk Road Exploration， etc. In spite of Ms Tian Youzhen’s professionalism， she still cannot keep pace with the speed of scholars’ speaking. But I still learned some new knowledge about historical cultural exchange and got a lot of inspiration. For example， according to Marine Trade between Zhang Baogao and Asia （Professor Li Youzhen）， I first knew about the general who made a significant contribution to the maritime trade.
Zhang Baogao， born in 790 in Silla， liked martial arts and was good at swimming. In the year of 807， he joined Wuning Army of Tang Dynasty with his friend Tang Jiawu， and after many victories， he was promoted as a young general in 819. In 824， he established Fa Hua Temple in Red Mountain， Shandong. Every Mid-autumn festival， Silla people there would gather in the temple， singing and dancing， to celebrate the festival， and then Red Mountain Fa Hua Temple became the culture activity center and station for Silla people to visit Tang Dynasty. A famous Japanese Buddhist monk， on his way to seek Buddhist scriptures in China， was helped by the local officials， residents and monks in Fa Hua Temple for three times， and with their help， he went to Wutai Mountain， Chang’an and other places. After the Monk returned to Japan， he let his disciples build Fa Hua Temple to show his affection to Red Mountain people. He also compiled Records on the Way to Tang， which made the Red Mountain Fa Hua Temple famous at home and abroad.
In 828， Zhang Baogao returned to Silla， got the king’s approval， set up the base camp in Qinghai Town， recruited 10，000 islanders as soldiers， and swept away many strands of Japanese pirates. He also organized large fleets to make sea transportation and commercial trade with China and Japan， and a system of commerce that connecting many place of China， Japan， and Silla was established. The number of Silla people who went to China to do business， to study， to work and to reside increased rapidly， and there were more than ten Silla villages only in the area of Red Mountain. There were many Silla yards providing services for Silla people on their journey through Shandong.
Another important historical figure who was mentioned many times by the scholars is a Silla monk Hui Chao， born in the year of 700 or so. In his youth， he went to five India states to visit the sacred lands， and he successively reached East India， Central India， South India， West India， North India， and then returned to Chang’an through Persia， Afghanistan， Pamir， Kashgar， Qiuci and Yanqi， and he wrote the book Records of the Journey to Five Indian Kingdoms， which recorded the countries， regions and states he visited from China to ancient India， including the geography of northwest China， the religions， the spread situation of Buddhism， the people and customs there， etc. The book was composed of three volumes， but it has been lost. Hui Lin kept some of the contents in his book. In 1908， Paul Pelliot discovered a volume excerpted by a person of Tang Dynasty in Dunhuang， attaching three Chinese poems. After the discovery of the fragments， scholars paid much attention to it， and many researches have been done.
When the humanities scholars finished their lectures， the scholars of natural science made speeches. They demonstrated the ship performance， their displacement， and some serious questions as “how to deal with pirates” were discussed. The humanists hoped to drive the sailing ship of Silla era， which would be more real and meaningful， while the scientists thought that the safety should be put in the first position.
The rich cultural accumulation of Korean peninsula is indicated by those Wengzhong， sculptures， decoratives，fittings， and buildings that perfectily combined the vitality with the art. For the first time， I came into deep contact with the Marine Silk Road， which is undoubtedly a gluttonous feast to me. A nation， no matter how much is its population and land area， as long as she can create a culture that is conducive to human， it is strong. Strong mind and strong culture make a real and eternal strong nation.
（ Translated by Gao Meimei ）