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“天高叶红时，赏秋吃螃蟹。”食蟹实在是一种时令性的享受。它具备了色、香、味、形、质所有的美食元素，明代文学家张岱就曾赞其曰：“食品不加盐醋而五味全者，为蚶，为河蟹。”在这个注定肥美的季节，细细探究秋蟹的死亡之谜。
“When leaves turn red， enjoy autumn and crab.” Crab is a seasonal delicacy with nice color， aroma， taste， appearance， and texture， the essentials of Chinese cuisine. Zhang Dai， a Ming Dynasty scholar once said， “The only food that offers all five flavors without salt or vinegar are clams and crabs.” In this season of plenty， we will unveil the mystery of what the crabs die for.
The Chinese has a long history of eating crabs. Crabs were thought to be ugly and scary in the beginning， used sometimes to scare off evil spirits by people who hang crabs above their doors. “The first person who eat crab is admirable”， wrote Lu Xun， one of the greatest modern Chinese writers， “who else but a brave heart would dare？” According to the Book of Rites， that first person is an old woman living several thousand years ago in a small village of today’s Shandong Province. As the legend goes， crabs crawled all over the paddy fields of the village and ate all the grains. Infuriated， the villagers threw the crabs in boiled water in order to kill the pest. But one old woman noticed the “golden” crab roes， collected them， tasted at home， and found out it is delicious. So she cooked the crab roe into sauces with minced meat， scallion， garlic， and salt. As the oily sauce went popular， many households start to use it to cook rice or noodle， thus the earliest way of eating crabs. Thanks to this old woman， crab has become a household delicacy today.
Today’s crab lovers carry on the heritage. For cities like Shanghai and Hong Kong， crab eating has become part of their culinary culture. Eileen Chang once said that when she eat crab noodle in Hangzhou， she would only eat the toppings and drink up the soup. It is wasteful， but that is how this talented Shanghai woman expresses her love of crabs.
The Chinese is probably most meticulous when it comes to eating crabs. In his book Chi Zhu Er （or Foodie）， Wang Dunhuang uses 8 pages to describe how he eats a crab. He gives every part of the crab a special foodies’ name. In the book， he said that he and his family only eat plump or very plump crabs， with no tools but their hands， mouths， and claws of the crabs， but they peel clean and fast， and will not eat any part that is unclean or left in the shell. The west wind heralds the season of crab eating， as the saying goes， and the Chinese never ceases to explore new ways of cooking crabs. ● 浴火重生 Stir-fried Crabs
经历烈火的煎熬和痛苦的考验，蟹肉风味将会得到升华。这样牺牲虽然悲壮，却也创造了美味的巅峰。哪一种炒蟹的味道能瞬间点燃你的味蕾，酸辣滋味当仁不让。向来金贵的大闸蟹总是以清水芙蓉的清蒸方式体现原汁原味，殊不知与这酸辣椒一同爆炒更是别有风情。通常爆炒大闸蟹时都要先过一遍油，令蟹壳变得酥脆、带着油脂光泽，切不可过水，因为水会冲淡蟹的原汁原味，油温高则可保证蟹肉口感细嫩。配料中要加入仔姜，这是因为蟹肉偏寒，仔姜不似老姜味道过于辛辣抢了蟹味，却可起到驱寒暖胃的功效。烹饪一道完美的酸辣椒炒蟹，酸辣椒自然首当其冲。江西酸辣椒可谓烹蟹的神来之笔，这种酸辣椒不但颜色鲜艳、入口生津，还鲜香辣爽，直叫你食欲大增，与大闸蟹爆炒堪称蟹菜的上佳之作。
Fire could elevate the taste of crab to a new level. The best way to stimulate your palate is to quick fry crabs with pickled chili， which could bring an exotic flavor to the crab meat. To make a quick fried crab， you need to first immerse the crab in heated oil quickly to make it crispy and wear a coating of oil before stir-frying it with tender ginger and pickled chili. Tender ginger is used to expel the cold in crab meat while not to overshadow the flavor of crab as old ginger would. The most important ingredient of course is pickled chili， the best of which are made in Jiangxi Province. With the bright-colored and appetizing pickled chili， the quick fired crab will be an appetizing dish.
● 温柔一击 Braised Crabs
秋季是菌类最好的季节，品种繁多，味道更浓。而螃蟹的肥美与菌汤的醇厚恰好相得益彰。菌汤烹蟹最重要的是火候，浸蟹过程中要用文火，这样蟹肉才能受热均匀，不会有的地方过熟，有的地方还生。与清蒸大闸蟹的原汁原味不同，这道菜虽然也是清淡口味，却因为有了汤的滋润，蟹肉软滑得难以形容，一口汤一口蟹，一蟹两吃的丰富口感被发挥得淋漓尽致。此外蟹与菌的搭配中，菌菇的处理也十分讲究，名厨们会先将菌类过一遍油，去掉菌类本身的杂味，再用水洗掉油味，随后再把菌与浓汤一同煲制。中餐当中每一种菜系都有自己特殊的风味，比如鲁菜是注重酱香，川菜重辣味，而浓汤则是粤菜的灵魂。各种精华食材在恰到好处的火候与时间中变成浑厚的汤色和浓郁的滋味，蟹之美味最终的归宿就在这温柔浓郁的菌汤之中。
文人墨客笔下的蟹
Crab in the writings of literati
以美食家自居的李渔甚至曾写道：“予于饮食之美，无一物不能言之，且无一物不穷其想象，竭其幽渺而言之，独于蟹螯一物，终其身皆不能忘之……至其可嗜可甘与不可忘之故，则绝口不能形容。”更曾夸张地表示：“予嗜此一生，每岁于蟹未出时，即储钱以待，因家人笑予以蟹为命，即自呼其钱为买命钱。”
Gourmet scholar Li Yu once wrote： “On the subject of culinary beauty， there is nothing that I could not write to great detail and to the best of imagination. But there is one thing that I would remember to the end of my life， that is crab claws…it is so addictively delicious and unforgettable that I could not put it properly in words. ” He claimed with exaggeration that “I am addicted to it my whole life that every year I would save money for the season of crabs. My family jokingly said I value crab as much as I value life， so I call my savings money for life.”
名著中的“螃蟹宴”
Crab Banquet in Classic Literature
说起“螃蟹宴”，人们一定会联想到《红楼梦》第38回《林潇湘魁夺菊花诗，薛蘅芜讽和螃蟹咏》里有趣热闹的一幕。这也正是曹雪芹对家道中落之前吃蟹赏菊的怀念。不过，这样的生动描写并非曹雪芹所独创。在此之前的《金瓶梅》中就已经写过“螃蟹宴”，不过笔调大不相同而已。该书第35回中写到众人围吃螃蟹。月娘吩咐小玉：“屋里还有些葡萄酒，筛来与你娘每（们）吃。”金莲快嘴，说道：“吃螃蟹，得些金华酒吃才好。”又道：“只刚一味螃蟹吃。”虽也热闹有趣，但毕竟没有大观园里的讲究与风韵。 In Chapter 38 of the Dream of the Red Chamber - Lin Hsiao-Hsiang carries the first prize in the poems on chrysanthemums. Hsueh Heng-wu chaffs Pao-yü by composing verses in the same style as his on the crabs， Cao Xueqin， reminisced how his family enjoyed crabs while appreciating autumn scenes before his family went bankrupt. But he is not the first to wrote about crabs. In chapter 35 of The Plum In The Golden Vase， there is also a depiction of crab banquet， although with a different tone： Yue-niang told Xiao Yu： “There is still some wine in the house， pour some for your girls.” Jin-lian immediately cut in， “Crab goes better with Jinhua yellow rice wine.” She added， “We only have crabs.”
● 置之死地而后生 Processed Crabs
大闸蟹好吃，但无奈吃起来实在麻烦，于是便有了蟹粉菜。北方海边，大家吃蟹就是清蒸，简单而不失原味。在江南，吃蟹则更为讲究，仅拆出的蟹粉就能做出很多花样，蟹粉小笼包、蟹粉大汤包、蟹粉狮子头、蟹粉豆腐羹等等都令人食指大动。所以说，南方人食蟹更婉约、更细致，仅看着就令人惬意。其中最受人喜爱的还数蟹粉小笼包，新鲜拆出的蟹粉，混入新鲜的猪肉做馅儿，食用时佐用镇江陈醋和腌制姜丝。咬劲细腻层次丰富：前味鲜香，汤汁饱满；中味厚重，面皮、蟹黄及肉味儿调和而各有千秋；后味绵长，蟹粉留香意犹未尽。
说到谁家蟹粉小笼包最为受老饕欢迎，台湾老字号鼎泰丰当仁不让，出身满洲八旗著名美食家唐鲁孙先生曾在《联合早报》两次赞美鼎泰丰的蟹粉小笼包：“无意中发现信义路口有家专门卖点心的鼎泰丰，他家的蟹粉汤包（蟹粉小笼包），蟹七肉三，毫不偷工减料……鹅黄溶浆，汤腴味正，比那些在包子缩口上掺一点咖喱，楞充蟹黄者完全两样……”
Crab roe cuisines have been invented to avoid the fuss of peeling crab shells. In Northern China， steaming is the main way of cooking crabs. But in the South， crab dishes take on more refined forms. Crab meat alone could be made into various food： steamed crab meat buns， steamed crab meat soup buns， meat balls topped with crab meat， and tofu topped with crab meat. The most popular of all is steamed crab meat buns. Filled with crab meat and minced pork， and served with Zhengjiang black vinegar and marinated ginger， the buns offer various layers of taste —first the aroma of the mellow soup， then the mixed flavor of crab meat and pork， and lastly a lingering taste of crab roe.
Din Tai Fung is the most popular restaurant for fans of steamed crab meat buns. Descendant of the royal family of China’s last dynasty and gourmet Mr. Tang Lusun praised the Taiwan-based restaurant twice on Lianhe Zaobao： “I came across this Dim Sum restaurant Din Tai Fung around the corner of Hsinyi Road. Its steamed crab meat soup buns are made of 70% crab meat and 30% pork， offering a yellow juice and a tasty soup. The restaurant never reduces or uses inferior food materials， so its buns are way better that those who sell fake buns topped with curry instead of crab meat.”
炒蟹粉
How to Stir Fry Crab Meat
老姜切成姜末备用。
炒锅中放入较多猪油，用中小火加热至融化，放入姜末煸香。 先放入蟹黄、蟹膏，煸炒至油色变黄。
然后放入蟹肉，并烹入1汤匙绍兴黄酒。
加入适量清水。
轻轻翻炒至水分略干，放入少许盐拌匀即可。
Cut old ginger into pieces
Mildly heat pork oil until it melts and put in the ginger pieces until its aroma comes out
Put in crab roe and crab cream and stir fry until the oil turns yellow
Put in crab meat and a spoonful yellow rice wine
Add some water
Slowed stir to drain some water， add some salt and mix evenly.● 醉生梦死 Drunken Crabs
对于生命归宿，醉死梦中可以说是一种极具美感的结局。在蟹菜中也有这么一道风雅的菜色，它不似清蒸大闸蟹般清新，也不似咖喱蟹般浓烈，清清淡淡却回味悠长，引人入胜。中国到处都有出名的醉蟹：山东微山湖的用糯米酒做的醉蟹，江苏兴化的用当地甜米酒泡的不放糖的醉蟹，安徽屯溪的用封缸酒和蒜腌制的醉蟹……不过其中最有名的，当数绍兴的醉蟹。
绍兴醉蟹，不论螃蟹还是用来腌蟹的母子酱油与黄酒，都必须是本地出品。首先，蟹不能太大，需1～2两左右一只的，太大则味道腌不进去，而且所用必须为雌蟹，雌蟹做醉蟹，里面的“石榴子”黄黄的，口感特别好。其次，配料一定要放得多，特别是生姜和蒜，那样才能祛除螃蟹的寒气，还原蟹之浓香。最后，腌制的时间非常讲究，时间太短则残有蟹腥味，腌得太久蟹黄又会散掉，所以腌蟹必须经验老道。
这道话梅炝清水蟹选用当地的老毛蟹，用传统方法熟醉。蒸熟的老毛蟹浸在加了黄酒、话梅、陈皮的秘制腌料中浸泡12小时，蟹肉蟹黄都有话梅的清香，正好中和了螃蟹之腻，口感甘甜无腥，蟹肉肥厚饱满，嫩到蟹肉、蟹黄用舌头轻轻一吸即可出来，个中滋味唯有亲自试之才可领会。
When it comes to death， die drunken could be a romantic way. That is how drunken crab is inspired. Unlike steamed crab or curry crab， drunken crab is neither too light nor too strong， yet it offers a lingering taste. Many places in China are known for their drunken crabs— the sticky rice wine drunken crab of Weishan Lake， Shandong； the sweet rice wine drunken crab of Xinhua， Zhejiang； and the garlic drunken crab of Tunxi， Anhui. But the most famous one is the drunken crab of Shaoxin.
Shaoxin Drunken Crab is made of local crabs， soy sauce and yellow rice wine. The locals would only select female crabs for its tasty roes， the weight of which is between 50g and 100g because it is easier to get fully marinated. Ingredients， in particular ginger and garlic are used in large quantity to counteract the cold and highlight the original flavor of crabs. Timing is important for marination， because if too short， it will taste fishy， if too long， the roe would fall apart.
Stir Fried Drunken Crab with Plum is made by stir-frying drunken crab marinated for 12 hours in yellow rice wine， plum， and dried tangerine peel. The aroma of plum would penetrate the meat and roe， making it so tender that you can suck the meat and roe out with the help of your tongue.
“When leaves turn red， enjoy autumn and crab.” Crab is a seasonal delicacy with nice color， aroma， taste， appearance， and texture， the essentials of Chinese cuisine. Zhang Dai， a Ming Dynasty scholar once said， “The only food that offers all five flavors without salt or vinegar are clams and crabs.” In this season of plenty， we will unveil the mystery of what the crabs die for.
The Chinese has a long history of eating crabs. Crabs were thought to be ugly and scary in the beginning， used sometimes to scare off evil spirits by people who hang crabs above their doors. “The first person who eat crab is admirable”， wrote Lu Xun， one of the greatest modern Chinese writers， “who else but a brave heart would dare？” According to the Book of Rites， that first person is an old woman living several thousand years ago in a small village of today’s Shandong Province. As the legend goes， crabs crawled all over the paddy fields of the village and ate all the grains. Infuriated， the villagers threw the crabs in boiled water in order to kill the pest. But one old woman noticed the “golden” crab roes， collected them， tasted at home， and found out it is delicious. So she cooked the crab roe into sauces with minced meat， scallion， garlic， and salt. As the oily sauce went popular， many households start to use it to cook rice or noodle， thus the earliest way of eating crabs. Thanks to this old woman， crab has become a household delicacy today.
Today’s crab lovers carry on the heritage. For cities like Shanghai and Hong Kong， crab eating has become part of their culinary culture. Eileen Chang once said that when she eat crab noodle in Hangzhou， she would only eat the toppings and drink up the soup. It is wasteful， but that is how this talented Shanghai woman expresses her love of crabs.
The Chinese is probably most meticulous when it comes to eating crabs. In his book Chi Zhu Er （or Foodie）， Wang Dunhuang uses 8 pages to describe how he eats a crab. He gives every part of the crab a special foodies’ name. In the book， he said that he and his family only eat plump or very plump crabs， with no tools but their hands， mouths， and claws of the crabs， but they peel clean and fast， and will not eat any part that is unclean or left in the shell. The west wind heralds the season of crab eating， as the saying goes， and the Chinese never ceases to explore new ways of cooking crabs. ● 浴火重生 Stir-fried Crabs
经历烈火的煎熬和痛苦的考验，蟹肉风味将会得到升华。这样牺牲虽然悲壮，却也创造了美味的巅峰。哪一种炒蟹的味道能瞬间点燃你的味蕾，酸辣滋味当仁不让。向来金贵的大闸蟹总是以清水芙蓉的清蒸方式体现原汁原味，殊不知与这酸辣椒一同爆炒更是别有风情。通常爆炒大闸蟹时都要先过一遍油，令蟹壳变得酥脆、带着油脂光泽，切不可过水，因为水会冲淡蟹的原汁原味，油温高则可保证蟹肉口感细嫩。配料中要加入仔姜，这是因为蟹肉偏寒，仔姜不似老姜味道过于辛辣抢了蟹味，却可起到驱寒暖胃的功效。烹饪一道完美的酸辣椒炒蟹，酸辣椒自然首当其冲。江西酸辣椒可谓烹蟹的神来之笔，这种酸辣椒不但颜色鲜艳、入口生津，还鲜香辣爽，直叫你食欲大增，与大闸蟹爆炒堪称蟹菜的上佳之作。
Fire could elevate the taste of crab to a new level. The best way to stimulate your palate is to quick fry crabs with pickled chili， which could bring an exotic flavor to the crab meat. To make a quick fried crab， you need to first immerse the crab in heated oil quickly to make it crispy and wear a coating of oil before stir-frying it with tender ginger and pickled chili. Tender ginger is used to expel the cold in crab meat while not to overshadow the flavor of crab as old ginger would. The most important ingredient of course is pickled chili， the best of which are made in Jiangxi Province. With the bright-colored and appetizing pickled chili， the quick fired crab will be an appetizing dish.
● 温柔一击 Braised Crabs
秋季是菌类最好的季节，品种繁多，味道更浓。而螃蟹的肥美与菌汤的醇厚恰好相得益彰。菌汤烹蟹最重要的是火候，浸蟹过程中要用文火，这样蟹肉才能受热均匀，不会有的地方过熟，有的地方还生。与清蒸大闸蟹的原汁原味不同，这道菜虽然也是清淡口味，却因为有了汤的滋润，蟹肉软滑得难以形容，一口汤一口蟹，一蟹两吃的丰富口感被发挥得淋漓尽致。此外蟹与菌的搭配中，菌菇的处理也十分讲究，名厨们会先将菌类过一遍油，去掉菌类本身的杂味，再用水洗掉油味，随后再把菌与浓汤一同煲制。中餐当中每一种菜系都有自己特殊的风味，比如鲁菜是注重酱香，川菜重辣味，而浓汤则是粤菜的灵魂。各种精华食材在恰到好处的火候与时间中变成浑厚的汤色和浓郁的滋味，蟹之美味最终的归宿就在这温柔浓郁的菌汤之中。
文人墨客笔下的蟹
Crab in the writings of literati
以美食家自居的李渔甚至曾写道：“予于饮食之美，无一物不能言之，且无一物不穷其想象，竭其幽渺而言之，独于蟹螯一物，终其身皆不能忘之……至其可嗜可甘与不可忘之故，则绝口不能形容。”更曾夸张地表示：“予嗜此一生，每岁于蟹未出时，即储钱以待，因家人笑予以蟹为命，即自呼其钱为买命钱。”
Gourmet scholar Li Yu once wrote： “On the subject of culinary beauty， there is nothing that I could not write to great detail and to the best of imagination. But there is one thing that I would remember to the end of my life， that is crab claws…it is so addictively delicious and unforgettable that I could not put it properly in words. ” He claimed with exaggeration that “I am addicted to it my whole life that every year I would save money for the season of crabs. My family jokingly said I value crab as much as I value life， so I call my savings money for life.”
名著中的“螃蟹宴”
Crab Banquet in Classic Literature
说起“螃蟹宴”，人们一定会联想到《红楼梦》第38回《林潇湘魁夺菊花诗，薛蘅芜讽和螃蟹咏》里有趣热闹的一幕。这也正是曹雪芹对家道中落之前吃蟹赏菊的怀念。不过，这样的生动描写并非曹雪芹所独创。在此之前的《金瓶梅》中就已经写过“螃蟹宴”，不过笔调大不相同而已。该书第35回中写到众人围吃螃蟹。月娘吩咐小玉：“屋里还有些葡萄酒，筛来与你娘每（们）吃。”金莲快嘴，说道：“吃螃蟹，得些金华酒吃才好。”又道：“只刚一味螃蟹吃。”虽也热闹有趣，但毕竟没有大观园里的讲究与风韵。 In Chapter 38 of the Dream of the Red Chamber - Lin Hsiao-Hsiang carries the first prize in the poems on chrysanthemums. Hsueh Heng-wu chaffs Pao-yü by composing verses in the same style as his on the crabs， Cao Xueqin， reminisced how his family enjoyed crabs while appreciating autumn scenes before his family went bankrupt. But he is not the first to wrote about crabs. In chapter 35 of The Plum In The Golden Vase， there is also a depiction of crab banquet， although with a different tone： Yue-niang told Xiao Yu： “There is still some wine in the house， pour some for your girls.” Jin-lian immediately cut in， “Crab goes better with Jinhua yellow rice wine.” She added， “We only have crabs.”
● 置之死地而后生 Processed Crabs
大闸蟹好吃，但无奈吃起来实在麻烦，于是便有了蟹粉菜。北方海边，大家吃蟹就是清蒸，简单而不失原味。在江南，吃蟹则更为讲究，仅拆出的蟹粉就能做出很多花样，蟹粉小笼包、蟹粉大汤包、蟹粉狮子头、蟹粉豆腐羹等等都令人食指大动。所以说，南方人食蟹更婉约、更细致，仅看着就令人惬意。其中最受人喜爱的还数蟹粉小笼包，新鲜拆出的蟹粉，混入新鲜的猪肉做馅儿，食用时佐用镇江陈醋和腌制姜丝。咬劲细腻层次丰富：前味鲜香，汤汁饱满；中味厚重，面皮、蟹黄及肉味儿调和而各有千秋；后味绵长，蟹粉留香意犹未尽。
说到谁家蟹粉小笼包最为受老饕欢迎，台湾老字号鼎泰丰当仁不让，出身满洲八旗著名美食家唐鲁孙先生曾在《联合早报》两次赞美鼎泰丰的蟹粉小笼包：“无意中发现信义路口有家专门卖点心的鼎泰丰，他家的蟹粉汤包（蟹粉小笼包），蟹七肉三，毫不偷工减料……鹅黄溶浆，汤腴味正，比那些在包子缩口上掺一点咖喱，楞充蟹黄者完全两样……”
Crab roe cuisines have been invented to avoid the fuss of peeling crab shells. In Northern China， steaming is the main way of cooking crabs. But in the South， crab dishes take on more refined forms. Crab meat alone could be made into various food： steamed crab meat buns， steamed crab meat soup buns， meat balls topped with crab meat， and tofu topped with crab meat. The most popular of all is steamed crab meat buns. Filled with crab meat and minced pork， and served with Zhengjiang black vinegar and marinated ginger， the buns offer various layers of taste —first the aroma of the mellow soup， then the mixed flavor of crab meat and pork， and lastly a lingering taste of crab roe.
Din Tai Fung is the most popular restaurant for fans of steamed crab meat buns. Descendant of the royal family of China’s last dynasty and gourmet Mr. Tang Lusun praised the Taiwan-based restaurant twice on Lianhe Zaobao： “I came across this Dim Sum restaurant Din Tai Fung around the corner of Hsinyi Road. Its steamed crab meat soup buns are made of 70% crab meat and 30% pork， offering a yellow juice and a tasty soup. The restaurant never reduces or uses inferior food materials， so its buns are way better that those who sell fake buns topped with curry instead of crab meat.”
炒蟹粉
How to Stir Fry Crab Meat
老姜切成姜末备用。
炒锅中放入较多猪油，用中小火加热至融化，放入姜末煸香。 先放入蟹黄、蟹膏，煸炒至油色变黄。
然后放入蟹肉，并烹入1汤匙绍兴黄酒。
加入适量清水。
轻轻翻炒至水分略干，放入少许盐拌匀即可。
Cut old ginger into pieces
Mildly heat pork oil until it melts and put in the ginger pieces until its aroma comes out
Put in crab roe and crab cream and stir fry until the oil turns yellow
Put in crab meat and a spoonful yellow rice wine
Add some water
Slowed stir to drain some water， add some salt and mix evenly.● 醉生梦死 Drunken Crabs
对于生命归宿，醉死梦中可以说是一种极具美感的结局。在蟹菜中也有这么一道风雅的菜色，它不似清蒸大闸蟹般清新，也不似咖喱蟹般浓烈，清清淡淡却回味悠长，引人入胜。中国到处都有出名的醉蟹：山东微山湖的用糯米酒做的醉蟹，江苏兴化的用当地甜米酒泡的不放糖的醉蟹，安徽屯溪的用封缸酒和蒜腌制的醉蟹……不过其中最有名的，当数绍兴的醉蟹。
绍兴醉蟹，不论螃蟹还是用来腌蟹的母子酱油与黄酒，都必须是本地出品。首先，蟹不能太大，需1～2两左右一只的，太大则味道腌不进去，而且所用必须为雌蟹，雌蟹做醉蟹，里面的“石榴子”黄黄的，口感特别好。其次，配料一定要放得多，特别是生姜和蒜，那样才能祛除螃蟹的寒气，还原蟹之浓香。最后，腌制的时间非常讲究，时间太短则残有蟹腥味，腌得太久蟹黄又会散掉，所以腌蟹必须经验老道。
这道话梅炝清水蟹选用当地的老毛蟹，用传统方法熟醉。蒸熟的老毛蟹浸在加了黄酒、话梅、陈皮的秘制腌料中浸泡12小时，蟹肉蟹黄都有话梅的清香，正好中和了螃蟹之腻，口感甘甜无腥，蟹肉肥厚饱满，嫩到蟹肉、蟹黄用舌头轻轻一吸即可出来，个中滋味唯有亲自试之才可领会。
When it comes to death， die drunken could be a romantic way. That is how drunken crab is inspired. Unlike steamed crab or curry crab， drunken crab is neither too light nor too strong， yet it offers a lingering taste. Many places in China are known for their drunken crabs— the sticky rice wine drunken crab of Weishan Lake， Shandong； the sweet rice wine drunken crab of Xinhua， Zhejiang； and the garlic drunken crab of Tunxi， Anhui. But the most famous one is the drunken crab of Shaoxin.
Shaoxin Drunken Crab is made of local crabs， soy sauce and yellow rice wine. The locals would only select female crabs for its tasty roes， the weight of which is between 50g and 100g because it is easier to get fully marinated. Ingredients， in particular ginger and garlic are used in large quantity to counteract the cold and highlight the original flavor of crabs. Timing is important for marination， because if too short， it will taste fishy， if too long， the roe would fall apart.
Stir Fried Drunken Crab with Plum is made by stir-frying drunken crab marinated for 12 hours in yellow rice wine， plum， and dried tangerine peel. The aroma of plum would penetrate the meat and roe， making it so tender that you can suck the meat and roe out with the help of your tongue.