秋天的童话——尼亚加拉公园大道

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  Picture yourself 1)rollerblading through a gallery of Impressionist paintings. Now you’ve got some idea of what it’s like to 2)cruise the river-hugging Niagara Parkway during the brief but brilliant fall-color season.
  The route that Winston Churchill called “the prettiest Sunday afternoon drive in the world” puts on its best dress once a year, usually during the last week of September and the first couple of weeks in October. As a native of the region, I can only say one thing to visitors who come to visit the famous Niagara Falls: “Don’t miss out on the other natural wonder of our world!”
  The historic Niagara Parkway, which locals call simply “the river road,” follows the winding curves of the Niagara River that divides Canada and the United States as it journeys from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. 3)Landscaped during the Depression注1 of the 1930s by the Niagara Parks 4)Commission, this route is used today as much for 5)recreation as for transportation. You can drive the entire 35 miles or get off at any point along the way and walk, bike or rollerblade the trail that runs 6)parallel to the water.
  If you’ve visited the Canadian side of the Niagara Falls, you’ve driven part of this road already – but only a part. There’s a lot more to see. In autumn, the loveliest 7)stretch is the section that runs between the small towns of Queenston and Niagara-on-the-Lake. Here, the maple trees lining the river create a shifting 8)panorama of red, orange and gold from early to late October. The grass is still green at this time, and the river, 9)glimpsed between the dark tree trunks, is a pale, silvery blue.
  The color is so 10)dazzling that you’ll probably want to stop and stay still for a while to appreciate the full beauty of the area. There are several 11)scenic lookout spots along the way with small parking areas. From Queenston’s Heights Park, you’ll discover a 12)commanding view of both the river and Lake Ontario. Find a bench where you can sit and 13)contemplate your surroundings, or share a picnic lunch with a 14)companion. You can find two restaurants here, one casual and one fine dining, both with great panoramic views of the river.
  While you’re in Queenston, and still in the mood for appreciating beauty, you might want to stop and visit the Riverbrink Art Gallery, which 15)boasts a fine collection of historic Canadian art, including work by the “Group of Seven” (a group of Canadian landscape painters in the 1920s); Dutch-Canadian landscape painter Cornelius Krieghoff (1815-1872); and Irish-born Paul Kane (1810-1871), who 16)documented the Canadian West in his famous pictures.
  At the north end of the Parkway, where the river runs into Lake Ontario, you come to Niagara-on-the-Lake, a 17)bustling 18)resort town famous for its theater festival – the Shaw Festival (which celebrates the works of Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw), its 19)winery tours, 20)heritage homes, historic 21)fort and flower-filled main street. While the clothing, gift shops and 22)boutiques along Queen Street are attractive, take time to explore the side streets here, as well. You won’t be disappointed. Lined with early 19th century houses, this is the kind of leafy, picture-perfect neighborhood you usually see only in the movies.
  Down at the lakeshore park, you’ll find a Victorian-style 23)gazebo facing the water. It blends perfectly with the rest of the town, but – surprise! – it’s much younger than everything else. It was built for the movie The Dead Zone, an adaptation of the Stephen King novel starring Christopher Walken, when it was shot here in 1983.
  When you have had enough exercise, stop for 24)refreshments at one of the many restaurants in town. The century-old Oban Inn and the trendy Epicurean注2, with its leafy backyard 25)patio, are popular favorites. You’ll find restaurants and cafés offering seafood, steaks, Italian and Chinese food, and more along Queen Street. If you’re planning to attend the 8 p.m. show at the Shaw Festival, make your 26)reservations for 5:30 p.m. to give yourself plenty of time to enjoy your dinner.
  On an autumn day, you can celebrate another natural, local treasure, the grape harvest, by 27)indulging in a glass of Niagara wine. What better way is there to celebrate a brief but 28)bountiful season?
  
  想象一下踩着轮滑穿过一个挂满印象派油画作品的画廊,那么你就可以隐约体会到在短暂而明媚的秋日里沿着尼亚加拉瀑布公园大道驾车漫游是怎样的了。
  每一年,这条曾被温斯顿·丘吉尔称为“世界上最美丽的周日午后自驾游公路”都会换上最漂亮的衣裳——通常是在九月的最后一个星期到十月的中上旬。作为当地人,我对那些到此观赏著名的尼亚加拉瀑布的游客只能说一句话:“千万不要错过另一个世界自然奇观!”
  历史悠久的尼亚加拉公园大道被当地人简称为“河边路”。它始于伊利湖,沿着位于美加交界、迂回曲折的尼亚加拉河一直延伸到安大略湖。这条路于上世纪30年代大萧条期间由尼亚加拉公园管理局进行园林美化,如今其休闲功能与运输功能相当。你可以驾车走完全程35英里(约56千米)的道路,或者在沿途任何一处停下来,顺着与水流平行的小径步行、骑车或者踩轮滑。
  如果你游览过加拿大境内的尼亚加拉瀑布,那么你其实已经驶过这条公路的其中一段路程了——不过只是一部分而已,还有很多好看的景观呢。秋天里最迷人的一段路是从小镇昆斯敦至湖上尼亚加拉镇。整个十月,这里沿岸的枫树创造出一幅由红、橙、金三色组成的色彩变幻的全景图。这时的草还是绿油油的;至于河流,从粗黑的树干间一瞥,呈现出淡淡的银蓝色。
  这片色彩令人眼花缭乱,你或许想停下脚步逗留片刻,好好欣赏这片美景。这里沿途有几个配有小型停车区的观光点。在昆斯敦的高地公园,你可以居高临下地看到河流和安大略湖的景观。找张长椅坐下来,仔细观赏一下周边的风景吧,或者跟同伴分享一顿野外午餐。你可以在这儿找到两间餐厅,一间比较休闲,另一间则是高级餐厅,都能看到河流的壮观全貌。
  当你在昆斯敦逗留的时候,如果还有心情欣赏美,你或许可以到河岸艺术画廊参观一下。这里以藏有各个艺术历史时期的加拿大名画为傲,其中包括“七人画派”(上世纪20年代一群加拿大风景画画家)的作品、荷兰裔加拿大风景画家科尼利厄斯·克里格霍夫(1815-1872)的作品,以及出生于爱尔兰、以描绘加拿大西部景色著称的
  保罗·凯恩(1810-1871)的画作。
  在公园大道的北端,河流汇入安大略湖之处,便是湖上尼亚加拉镇。这个热闹的度假小镇以戏剧节——“萧伯纳纪念日”(纪念爱尔兰剧作家乔治·萧伯纳的作品)、葡萄酒厂观光、传统大屋、历史悠久的堡垒以及种满鲜花的主街道而著称。虽然皇后街上的服装、礼品店和流行精品店很有吸引力,但请你也要花点时间探访这里的横街小巷。你一定不会失望。街道两旁矗立着19世纪早期的建筑,通常只有在电影中才能看到这种树木茂盛、几可入画的街区。
  走到湖岸公园,你会看到一个面向湖泊的维多利亚式眺望台。它与整个小镇的风格很相称,但让人惊喜的是,它比这里的任何建筑物都要年轻得多!它是专为电影《死亡地带》而建造的。这部电影改编自斯蒂芬·金的小说,由克里斯托弗·沃肯主演,于1983年在此拍摄。
  过完运动瘾之后,你可以到镇上众多餐厅中的其中一间享用美食。拥有百年历史的奥班旅馆和带有绿荫后院露台、装璜时尚的美食人餐厅都是人们的热选。在皇后街上,你会发现不少餐厅和咖啡店供应海鲜、扒类、意大利菜、中国菜以及其它菜式。如果你打算在“萧伯纳纪念日”观看晚上8点的表演,那么在餐厅预订5点半的晚餐,给自己足够的时间享受吧。
  在秋日里,你可以尽情地喝上一杯尼亚加拉葡萄酒以庆祝当地的另一笔自然财富——葡萄的丰收。还有什么比这更好的方式来庆祝一个短暂但丰盛的季节呢?
  


  

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