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一座县城的文化,是在漫长的时空里堆积出来的,一点一点厚重,一点一点沧桑。因而县治成为中国土地上最古老的基础单位,形成了一城一味的特点。就我所知,在云南有很多县城都曾经是马背上驮出来的。在云南崇山峻岭之间,马匹形成一线马队,穿梭在瘦瘦的马道上。物资的交流带来了山间一座座小城的繁盛。那时候,生活是缓慢的、草药味的,清贫诗意而烟火味。因为有马匹作为日常运输工具,一种富有灵性和美感的动物与人相伴,相伴在朝朝暮暮的山间、路上、旅店里。我没有机会再看见马帮城的辉煌,只在凌家马店散发的气味和父亲赶马的记忆中,用幻想复活马帮城在地平线上的色泽。那些具有魔幻色彩的情节,像沉沉大地上古老的歌谣,从茶罐里一声声摇来。
The culture of a county is accumulated in a long time and space, a little bit thick, a little bit vicissitudes of life. Thus, the county government became the oldest basic unit of land in China, forming a unique feature of one city. As far as I know, many counties in Yunnan have been carried on horseback. In Yunnan mountains, horses form a first-line colts, shuttling in the thin horse on the road. The exchange of materials brought the prosperous town a small town. At that time, life was slow, herbal flavors, poetic and pyrotechnic. Because there are horses as a daily means of transport, a kind of spiritual and aesthetic animals accompanied by people, accompanied by the twilight in the mountains, on the road, hotel. I did not have a chance to see the mantle of the city again, only in the smell of the Lingjiamadian and his father’s memory, with the fantasy revival of the city on the horizon in the color. Those with magical plot, like the ancient songs on the sinking earth, from the tea pot in the sound of shaking.