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江南，这片承载着传统文化精致典雅、秀美清嘉的广大地域，深深刻录着明代中叶商品经济兴起、市民阶层壮大的历史，其奢、其华、其奇异、其珍巧，无不典型。钱谦益在《南征吟小引》中感慨道：“江南佳丽之地，风声文物，与其才情互相映带。”但是当代城市化、商业化的作用，已加速了江南年俗的变迁，有其格外特殊的意义。
灶神黯然退场
文天祥在《小年》一诗起首便是“燕朔逢穷腊，江南拜小年”。与北方不同，在江南，小年为腊月二十四，吴语所云“廿四夜”，是送灶王上天的日子。爬梳古籍文献，大概没有哪个神祇像灶王那样跟老百姓的生活有着如此密切的联系。灶头日日烧旺，柴米油盐，喜怒哀乐，灶王爷真可谓无事不知、无事不晓。到腊月小年，天天守着百姓过日子的灶神要回天上向玉皇大帝汇报人间善恶。送灶的神圣性也是不容忽视的。传说，灶神上天言事之后，将以蛛网为记，标记人间恶人恶事，待玉皇巡视量察一一加以惩罚。故送灶以后，紧接着就要掸除灶间、洒扫庭院，正好是新年新气象。
江南旧俗祭灶十分热闹，范成大曾有《祭灶词》：“古传腊月二十四，灶君朝天欲言事，云车风马少留恋，家有杯盘丰典祀。猪头烂熟双鱼鲜，豆沙甘松粉饵圆。男儿酌献女儿避，酹酒烧钱灶君喜。婢子争斗君莫闻，猫犬触秽君莫嗔。送君醉饱登天门，勺长勺短勿复云，乞取利市归来分。 ”说的正是送灶时节，家家户户摆了丰盛的鱼肉，又做豆沙团子、饴糖元宝等甜食，祭送灶神的情形。甜食是希望灶君吃了糖可以多说好话，另一种说法是用糖粘住灶君的嘴。今天，随着城市化的进程，传统灶台已经被煤气灶、电磁炉等取代。即使是农村存留的灶台，也多为简单的二眼灶。供奉灶王爷的神龛、手绘的灶画都已经很难找到了。生活方式的改变使得祭灶活动的原始意义日益淡化。做酒酿、糖饼、糖瓜、糖元宝、豆沙团子等甜食却一直是小年必备的时令食品，不论是城镇还是乡村，家人团聚，自己动手，风味自然也胜过超市常年供应的工业化流水线上的食品许多。
祈福日益兴盛
在旧时的许多年俗活动中，祈愿求福、拜神求财方面的比较突出，如今虽然形式上有所改变，总体而言却是稍显热闹。
除夕夜守岁大都已被看春晚取代，但放开门炮仗、烧头香、听新年钟声，祈求新年高升早发、诸事顺利这一习俗近年来甚是红火。开门炮讲究赶早抢先，像上海玉佛寺、苏州玄妙观、杭州
王 姝
秦淮灯会，江南胜景。
Lantern Festival in Nanjing is one of the most celebrated regional tourism attractions.
灵隐寺、新昌大佛寺都是热闹的烧头香所在。至于苏州寒山寺、杭州净慈寺的钟声则更是声名远扬。烧头香也不仅限于名寺名庙，像各地城隍庙、土地庙等在除夕夜半、初一早上香火也都旺盛。
正月初五，民间有迎财神的习俗。蔡云《吴歈》云：“五日财源五日求，一年心愿一时酬。提防别处迎神早，隔夜匆匆抢路头。”过去所有商户都在初五正式开门营业，以发利市。杭州北高峰的财神庙，有“天下第一财神庙”之称，每到初五，都是人头攒动，求神抽签者络绎不绝，香火竟日不歇。
从娱神到娱人
在古代江南，春节的意义与稻作文化紧密相连，过年意在庆祝丰收、敬神祭祖、除旧布新。现在江南一带经济飞速发展，许多如走桥、拜喜神、祭井、初六送穷、初七人日节、初八拜星
工艺品商店陈列的“财神到！”
God of Fortune statues in a gift shop
君、元夕迎紫姑等古老的习俗都因为生活方式的改变而渐渐被人所淡忘。但与这些节庆活动相关的一些娱乐、饮食习俗却继续保留了下来，虽然其原初的意义已不为人知。这与往昔江南食必脍精、衣必锦绣、车如彩舆、舟如画舫的奢华气象精神相通。世俗性的高扬使得春节节庆活动的目的渐渐从娱神转换到娱人上来。
一是年夜饭。年夜饭始终是春节最重要的活动。在江南许多地方，年夜饭首先是要祭祖的，鱼、肉、豆腐、蛋饺等都是必需之物，摆放的酒盏碗筷都得是成双之数。尽管生活水平不断
Changes in Spring Festival Celebration in Yangtze River
Delta
By Wang Shu
Festivities in the south of the Yangtze River Delta have ushered in Spring Festi-val, the Chinese Lunar New Year, for cen-turies. These yearly celebrations are known for luxury, elegance, wonder and ingenuity. Scholars in the past pointed out that these festivities reflected the talent of local resi-dents. However, as urbanization and indus-trialization are transforming this part of the
提高，年夜饭不再在丰盛性上区别于平常菜肴，但在菜肴点心样式的选择上非常注重彩头与寓意。像蹄髈表示“提起来”，青菜寓意“来年有个好彩头”，猪手、蛋饺象征元宝，肉圆象征团圆，粉丝象征长寿，全鸡全鸭叫圆满完整，芹菜叫勤勤恳恳，有的还放上福橘、红蛋、荸荠之类。
二是元宵灯节。古代元宵节祭祀太一神、庆天官诞辰、燃灯礼佛的宗教性已经减弱，今天的元宵重在一个“闹”字。元宵社火、烟花爆竹、张灯结彩、猜灯谜等传统的活动由于经济繁荣而更加兴盛。而与各地方文化相关，别具特色的更有南京的秦淮灯会、苏州的古胥门灯会、嘉兴新塍的螯山灯会、温州的灯会游行、宁波的台阁、金华的板凳龙、嘉兴的迎灯、海盐的滚灯、湖州的田蚕灯、台州黄岩的橘灯、玉环的渔灯等不同形式的点灯游行活动。虽然有些传统灯如苏灯的制作技艺已经失传，但也有现代声、光、电的技术崭新加盟，为灯会增添了不少亮色。许多地方的元宵节，已经不单是灯节，更是民间工艺、民间小吃及传统游戏齐聚的一场大庙会，庶几可媲美当年“火树银花合，星桥铁锁开”的盛况了。□
(本文图片由水华提供)
country rapidly and considerably, the long-standing folk celebrations are changing.
Kitchen God Dethroned
In the past, December 24 on the lunar calendar was the day when the kitchen god left for the heaven to make an annual report of the family’s yearly activities to Jade Emperor. In those years, the kitchen god knew everything about a family and people worried that the kitchen god might turn out to be a snitch. The way to bribe the kitchen god was to bribe him by seeing the kitchen god off ceremoniously and cleaning the kitchen thoroughly. The kitchen God ceremony marked the beginning of hectic preparations for the upcoming Spring Fes-tival. One part of the ceremony was to offer the kitchen god some candies and sweet
EXCLUSIVES民俗一瞥
到了春节，杭州玉皇山财神殿景象不一般。
God of Fortune Temple at Jade Emperor Hill in Hangzhou
food so that the kitchen god would be sweet about the family. The object that symbol-ized the kitchen god was the kitchen stove. The traditional kitchen stove, a bulky brick structure, has long since disappeared from everyday life. As cooking gas and electric-ity are widely used today, people use gas cookers and induction cookers. In some rural kitchens, the traditional kitchen stove still remain, but the shrine and the painting, the two objects used to worship the kitchen god, are gone. However, sweet food stays. Today, a family buys sweet food or makes sweet food together.
Fortune God Shines
In the past, saying prayers to Fortune God and asking for blessing was a big part of Spring Festival rituals. Worshipping Fortune God has not changed considerably. Instead, it becomes more important.
The people in the south of the Yangtze River Delta still sit through the last night of the old lunar year to welcome the first morning of New Year. Nowadays, peo-ple do not just sit and chat. Watching the CCTV gala on the eve of Spring Festival, which has been around since 1981, is a big part of celebration through the night for
1.3 billion Chinese people. Some people go to Buddhist temple at small hours of the
first morning of the lunar year and pray for
heavenly blessing. Buddhist temples in this part of the country open at midnight. Jade Buddha Temple in Shanghai, Xuanmiao Taoist Monastery in Suzhou, Lingyin Tem-ple in Hangzhou, and Grand Buddha Tem-ple in Xinchang are best known temples in the south of the Yangtze River Delta for sending prayers to heaven through soaring fragrance of a piece of burning incense. In some rural temples, statues of Buddha and Taoist gods are often placed side by side. Pragmatic prayers do not discriminate.
Though people pray for fortune on the
first hours of the New Year, the fifth day of
lunar January is celebrated because it is the birthday of the fortune god and it is the day business resumes normal business after the Spring Festival. It is also on this day that some festival taboos are lifted. The first thing businesses usually do is to set fire-crackers as business people vie each other in welcoming fortune god to come in and stay with them, believing that fortune god favors those who hold the biggest welcome rite and set off the loudest firecrackers. Nowadays, government also helps launch large-scale welcome ceremony with folks.
Since 1999, Zhouzhuang, an ancient river town near Suzhou in southern Jiangsu Province, has been staging a festival on lunar January 5th that welcomes Fortune God. It is an event jointly sponsored by the local government and local resident organizations. Fortune God Temple at the tiptop of North Tall Peak on the West Lake, Hangzhou, is presumably China’s number
one altar for the god. On lunar January fifth, people climb the mountain and flood in to
pray to the immortal that controls fortune.
People Become More Important
In the ancient times, Spring Festival in the south of the Yangtze River Delta was closely associated with rice, a main crop in this part of the country. The Spring Festival used to celebrate harvest, worship ancestors and gods. Nowadays, some old rites have been fading as some gods are being forgot-ten. However, the entertainment and special food for these outmoded festivities remain.
剡中大佛，新年祈福地之一。
A statue of God of Fortune in a gift shop
What is gone is for immortals and what re-mains is for mortals. More and more activi-ties in the Spring Festival have shifted from entertaining gods to entertaining people.
The banquet on the Eve of the Spring Festival was and is the most important of the celebrations during the Spring Festival. In the past, the banquet was prepared for the ancestors. A thanksgiving ritual would be conducted before the family all sat down to the table. Nowadays, the traditional dishes are no longer offered to ancestors. In fact, these religiously symbolic dishes are dropped. The foods whose names sound auspicious are imperatives for the banquet.
Lantern Festival on the fifteenth day of lunar January used to be a ritual in honor of gods. Today, the religious nature of the festival is largely dropped. The festival bus-tles with noise and excitement. Nowadays, lantern festivals across the south of the Yangtze River Delta are the last celebra-tion of the Spring Festival. People hang their lanterns along streets. On the night, people come out to watch lanterns, crack
their minds to figure out answers to riddles
written on lanterns. Though some tradi-tional lantern-making techniques are lost, modern technologies have been introduced to enable lanterns to make noise and issue outlandish lights. On the lantern night, food
vendors flock to venues of lanterns to cater
to the people on the last celebration of the Chinese New Year. □
灶神黯然退场
文天祥在《小年》一诗起首便是“燕朔逢穷腊，江南拜小年”。与北方不同，在江南，小年为腊月二十四，吴语所云“廿四夜”，是送灶王上天的日子。爬梳古籍文献，大概没有哪个神祇像灶王那样跟老百姓的生活有着如此密切的联系。灶头日日烧旺，柴米油盐，喜怒哀乐，灶王爷真可谓无事不知、无事不晓。到腊月小年，天天守着百姓过日子的灶神要回天上向玉皇大帝汇报人间善恶。送灶的神圣性也是不容忽视的。传说，灶神上天言事之后，将以蛛网为记，标记人间恶人恶事，待玉皇巡视量察一一加以惩罚。故送灶以后，紧接着就要掸除灶间、洒扫庭院，正好是新年新气象。
江南旧俗祭灶十分热闹，范成大曾有《祭灶词》：“古传腊月二十四，灶君朝天欲言事，云车风马少留恋，家有杯盘丰典祀。猪头烂熟双鱼鲜，豆沙甘松粉饵圆。男儿酌献女儿避，酹酒烧钱灶君喜。婢子争斗君莫闻，猫犬触秽君莫嗔。送君醉饱登天门，勺长勺短勿复云，乞取利市归来分。 ”说的正是送灶时节，家家户户摆了丰盛的鱼肉，又做豆沙团子、饴糖元宝等甜食，祭送灶神的情形。甜食是希望灶君吃了糖可以多说好话，另一种说法是用糖粘住灶君的嘴。今天，随着城市化的进程，传统灶台已经被煤气灶、电磁炉等取代。即使是农村存留的灶台，也多为简单的二眼灶。供奉灶王爷的神龛、手绘的灶画都已经很难找到了。生活方式的改变使得祭灶活动的原始意义日益淡化。做酒酿、糖饼、糖瓜、糖元宝、豆沙团子等甜食却一直是小年必备的时令食品，不论是城镇还是乡村，家人团聚，自己动手，风味自然也胜过超市常年供应的工业化流水线上的食品许多。
祈福日益兴盛
在旧时的许多年俗活动中，祈愿求福、拜神求财方面的比较突出，如今虽然形式上有所改变，总体而言却是稍显热闹。
除夕夜守岁大都已被看春晚取代，但放开门炮仗、烧头香、听新年钟声，祈求新年高升早发、诸事顺利这一习俗近年来甚是红火。开门炮讲究赶早抢先，像上海玉佛寺、苏州玄妙观、杭州
王 姝
秦淮灯会，江南胜景。
Lantern Festival in Nanjing is one of the most celebrated regional tourism attractions.
灵隐寺、新昌大佛寺都是热闹的烧头香所在。至于苏州寒山寺、杭州净慈寺的钟声则更是声名远扬。烧头香也不仅限于名寺名庙，像各地城隍庙、土地庙等在除夕夜半、初一早上香火也都旺盛。
正月初五，民间有迎财神的习俗。蔡云《吴歈》云：“五日财源五日求，一年心愿一时酬。提防别处迎神早，隔夜匆匆抢路头。”过去所有商户都在初五正式开门营业，以发利市。杭州北高峰的财神庙，有“天下第一财神庙”之称，每到初五，都是人头攒动，求神抽签者络绎不绝，香火竟日不歇。
从娱神到娱人
在古代江南，春节的意义与稻作文化紧密相连，过年意在庆祝丰收、敬神祭祖、除旧布新。现在江南一带经济飞速发展，许多如走桥、拜喜神、祭井、初六送穷、初七人日节、初八拜星
工艺品商店陈列的“财神到！”
God of Fortune statues in a gift shop
君、元夕迎紫姑等古老的习俗都因为生活方式的改变而渐渐被人所淡忘。但与这些节庆活动相关的一些娱乐、饮食习俗却继续保留了下来，虽然其原初的意义已不为人知。这与往昔江南食必脍精、衣必锦绣、车如彩舆、舟如画舫的奢华气象精神相通。世俗性的高扬使得春节节庆活动的目的渐渐从娱神转换到娱人上来。
一是年夜饭。年夜饭始终是春节最重要的活动。在江南许多地方，年夜饭首先是要祭祖的，鱼、肉、豆腐、蛋饺等都是必需之物，摆放的酒盏碗筷都得是成双之数。尽管生活水平不断
Changes in Spring Festival Celebration in Yangtze River
Delta
By Wang Shu
Festivities in the south of the Yangtze River Delta have ushered in Spring Festi-val, the Chinese Lunar New Year, for cen-turies. These yearly celebrations are known for luxury, elegance, wonder and ingenuity. Scholars in the past pointed out that these festivities reflected the talent of local resi-dents. However, as urbanization and indus-trialization are transforming this part of the
提高，年夜饭不再在丰盛性上区别于平常菜肴，但在菜肴点心样式的选择上非常注重彩头与寓意。像蹄髈表示“提起来”，青菜寓意“来年有个好彩头”，猪手、蛋饺象征元宝，肉圆象征团圆，粉丝象征长寿，全鸡全鸭叫圆满完整，芹菜叫勤勤恳恳，有的还放上福橘、红蛋、荸荠之类。
二是元宵灯节。古代元宵节祭祀太一神、庆天官诞辰、燃灯礼佛的宗教性已经减弱，今天的元宵重在一个“闹”字。元宵社火、烟花爆竹、张灯结彩、猜灯谜等传统的活动由于经济繁荣而更加兴盛。而与各地方文化相关，别具特色的更有南京的秦淮灯会、苏州的古胥门灯会、嘉兴新塍的螯山灯会、温州的灯会游行、宁波的台阁、金华的板凳龙、嘉兴的迎灯、海盐的滚灯、湖州的田蚕灯、台州黄岩的橘灯、玉环的渔灯等不同形式的点灯游行活动。虽然有些传统灯如苏灯的制作技艺已经失传，但也有现代声、光、电的技术崭新加盟，为灯会增添了不少亮色。许多地方的元宵节，已经不单是灯节，更是民间工艺、民间小吃及传统游戏齐聚的一场大庙会，庶几可媲美当年“火树银花合，星桥铁锁开”的盛况了。□
(本文图片由水华提供)
country rapidly and considerably, the long-standing folk celebrations are changing.
Kitchen God Dethroned
In the past, December 24 on the lunar calendar was the day when the kitchen god left for the heaven to make an annual report of the family’s yearly activities to Jade Emperor. In those years, the kitchen god knew everything about a family and people worried that the kitchen god might turn out to be a snitch. The way to bribe the kitchen god was to bribe him by seeing the kitchen god off ceremoniously and cleaning the kitchen thoroughly. The kitchen God ceremony marked the beginning of hectic preparations for the upcoming Spring Fes-tival. One part of the ceremony was to offer the kitchen god some candies and sweet
EXCLUSIVES民俗一瞥
到了春节，杭州玉皇山财神殿景象不一般。
God of Fortune Temple at Jade Emperor Hill in Hangzhou
food so that the kitchen god would be sweet about the family. The object that symbol-ized the kitchen god was the kitchen stove. The traditional kitchen stove, a bulky brick structure, has long since disappeared from everyday life. As cooking gas and electric-ity are widely used today, people use gas cookers and induction cookers. In some rural kitchens, the traditional kitchen stove still remain, but the shrine and the painting, the two objects used to worship the kitchen god, are gone. However, sweet food stays. Today, a family buys sweet food or makes sweet food together.
Fortune God Shines
In the past, saying prayers to Fortune God and asking for blessing was a big part of Spring Festival rituals. Worshipping Fortune God has not changed considerably. Instead, it becomes more important.
The people in the south of the Yangtze River Delta still sit through the last night of the old lunar year to welcome the first morning of New Year. Nowadays, peo-ple do not just sit and chat. Watching the CCTV gala on the eve of Spring Festival, which has been around since 1981, is a big part of celebration through the night for
1.3 billion Chinese people. Some people go to Buddhist temple at small hours of the
first morning of the lunar year and pray for
heavenly blessing. Buddhist temples in this part of the country open at midnight. Jade Buddha Temple in Shanghai, Xuanmiao Taoist Monastery in Suzhou, Lingyin Tem-ple in Hangzhou, and Grand Buddha Tem-ple in Xinchang are best known temples in the south of the Yangtze River Delta for sending prayers to heaven through soaring fragrance of a piece of burning incense. In some rural temples, statues of Buddha and Taoist gods are often placed side by side. Pragmatic prayers do not discriminate.
Though people pray for fortune on the
first hours of the New Year, the fifth day of
lunar January is celebrated because it is the birthday of the fortune god and it is the day business resumes normal business after the Spring Festival. It is also on this day that some festival taboos are lifted. The first thing businesses usually do is to set fire-crackers as business people vie each other in welcoming fortune god to come in and stay with them, believing that fortune god favors those who hold the biggest welcome rite and set off the loudest firecrackers. Nowadays, government also helps launch large-scale welcome ceremony with folks.
Since 1999, Zhouzhuang, an ancient river town near Suzhou in southern Jiangsu Province, has been staging a festival on lunar January 5th that welcomes Fortune God. It is an event jointly sponsored by the local government and local resident organizations. Fortune God Temple at the tiptop of North Tall Peak on the West Lake, Hangzhou, is presumably China’s number
one altar for the god. On lunar January fifth, people climb the mountain and flood in to
pray to the immortal that controls fortune.
People Become More Important
In the ancient times, Spring Festival in the south of the Yangtze River Delta was closely associated with rice, a main crop in this part of the country. The Spring Festival used to celebrate harvest, worship ancestors and gods. Nowadays, some old rites have been fading as some gods are being forgot-ten. However, the entertainment and special food for these outmoded festivities remain.
剡中大佛，新年祈福地之一。
A statue of God of Fortune in a gift shop
What is gone is for immortals and what re-mains is for mortals. More and more activi-ties in the Spring Festival have shifted from entertaining gods to entertaining people.
The banquet on the Eve of the Spring Festival was and is the most important of the celebrations during the Spring Festival. In the past, the banquet was prepared for the ancestors. A thanksgiving ritual would be conducted before the family all sat down to the table. Nowadays, the traditional dishes are no longer offered to ancestors. In fact, these religiously symbolic dishes are dropped. The foods whose names sound auspicious are imperatives for the banquet.
Lantern Festival on the fifteenth day of lunar January used to be a ritual in honor of gods. Today, the religious nature of the festival is largely dropped. The festival bus-tles with noise and excitement. Nowadays, lantern festivals across the south of the Yangtze River Delta are the last celebra-tion of the Spring Festival. People hang their lanterns along streets. On the night, people come out to watch lanterns, crack
their minds to figure out answers to riddles
written on lanterns. Though some tradi-tional lantern-making techniques are lost, modern technologies have been introduced to enable lanterns to make noise and issue outlandish lights. On the lantern night, food
vendors flock to venues of lanterns to cater
to the people on the last celebration of the Chinese New Year. □