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北半球寒冷的冬季已经来临了，而地球另一端却有一片依然阳光灿烂的奇特天地。那里有沙滩和雨林，有群山和绿野，有看不尽的美景、尝不尽的美味，还有享不尽的精彩和刺激。这样神奇的地方非澳大利亚的昆士兰莫属了。迎犹豫什么，快跟我走吧!
Y
ou can tour Queensland theguidebook way, following thetips in Lonely Planet'sAustralia. You can do itthe backpacker way, stopping at theSunshine Coast, Airlie Beach and Cairnsand no place in between. Or you cando it the smart way, by hiring a car orcaravan in Brisbane and taking to the roadwithout a timetable, if you allow the journey to open up on its own, everymorning will offer the freshness of yet another glorious day in the SunshineState.
Whatever your choice, exploring Australia's northeastern state demandsa discerning touch. So developed has the tourism industry in Queenslandbecome, that the visitor is often confronted with attractions that are lessthan impressive. But with a little care and a relaxed attitude, you'll find realgems along the way.
Brisbane, the capital of Queensland, sits roughly at the easternmost pointof Australia, near the border with New South Wales. This city of 1.8 millionpeople is a great place to start a journey of exploration.可以像旅行指南上说的那样去游览昆士兰，按着“孤独行星”出版社的《澳大利亚》分册上的建议去做。你也可以以背包客的方式去那儿游历，在阳光海岸、艾利海滩和凯恩斯驻足游玩而不去别的地方。或者你电可以选一种惬意的方式，在布里斯班雇一辆小汽车或篷车然后不受日程约束地悠然上路。假如你没有特别的计划，随心而游的话，每个早晨都会向你呈上这个阳光之州新的一灭的绝妙和新鲜。
无论你选哪种方式，要探游这个位于澳大利亚东北部的州都需要你有足够的眼力。昆士兰的旅游业已是非常发达，所以游客常常会面对各种不乏平庸之处的纷繁诱惑，但是只要你稍加仔细并放松心态，一路上你还是会找到真正的精华所在的。
布里斯班是昆士兰的首府，大致坐落在澳大利亚的最东端，毗邻新南威尔士州的边界。从这个人口180万的城市启动你的探索之旅是个不错的选择。
The region's history goes back to 1838, whenthe first non-convict settlers arrived from Europe.The city developed into a steamy, seedy river portlike something out of a |oseph Conrad novel. Untilrecently, Brisbane had to fight a reputation forlacking class, style and culture. But now all this haschanged and the city has remade itself into whatit calls "the culture capital of Australia".
The city's cultural precinct is centred aroundthe new Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA), nowAustralia's largest contemporary art gallery, whichopened in early 2007. Next to GOMA, the newState Library is worth a visit as well. A ten-minutewalk takes you to the Queensland Museum andSciencentre. There you'll also find the DandiiriMaiwar Aboriginal and Tortes Strait Islander CulturesCentre, a fine introduction to Australia's two nativecultural groups through their art, photographs,sculpture and causic.
August and September are the city's festivalseason, with the Brisbane International FilmFestival, the Riverfestival and the Brisbane Writers'Festival all taking place within the space of a fewweeks.
The trendiest part of Brisbane is FortitudeValley, where the James Street Markets definerelaxed dining. Tables overlook the street,and large windows give you the feeling thatyou're sitting outdoors even when you'renot. After lunch, explore the area's many artgalleries and boutiques. Philip Bacon Galleries, with works by leading Australian artists, suchas Albert Namatjira, Margaret O]]ey and SidneyNo]an, is often nominated as Australia's finestprivately owned art gallery.
It's hard to leave Brisbane, but the Sunshine Coast, an areaof unbelievable beauty, lies only an hour's drive north. Itstarts at Caloundra Beach. As a child I imagined that the sandsthere stretched forever; in fact, they do stretch more than 50kilometres. Noosa Heads is the finest part. Here the beachcurves around to face north, so that all fire world's sunshineseems to be focused on this one point. But the inland areabehind the Sunshine Coast aIso offers opportunities forunusual activities (see box on next page).
这个地区的历史可以追溯到1838年，当时首批非罪犯的定居者从欧洲来到这里。这个城市后来发展成了一个蒸汽弥漫、肮脏破旧的河港，就像约瑟夫，康拉德的小说里描述的那样。直到最近，布里斯班还在设法摆脱它没有上流阶层、缺乏独特风格和文化的名声。但现在这一切都变了，这个城市已经把自己重新塑造成了“澳大利亚的文化之都一。
昆士兰的文化核心区是以新现代艺术馆(GOMA)为中心的区域。该馆是澳大利亚目前最大的当代艺术展馆，于2007年初开放。在现代艺术馆旁边的新州立图书馆也是值得一去的。再走上十分钟你就会看到昆士兰博物馆和科技中心。在那儿你还可以参观邓迪利-梅沃土著民和托雷斯海峡岛民文化中心，这里通过展示美术、摄影、雕塑和音乐作品对澳大利亚这两个本土文化族群进行了详尽精彩的介绍。
八、九两个月是这个城市的节庆季节。在为期几周的时间里有布里斯班国际电影节、河流节及布里斯班作家节相继举行。
布里斯班最时尚的区域当数佛特谷，那里的詹姆斯火街市场阐释了何为悠闲进餐。坐在餐桌旁可以俯瞰火街，硕大的窗户让你虽身在室内却感觉犹如安坐室外。午餐后，你可以逛逛该地区众多的美术馆和精品店。菲利普·培根美术馆收藏了澳火利亚顶尖艺术家们的作品，如阿尔伯特·纳马吉拉、玛格丽特·欧莱和西德尼·诺兰。该馆经常被提名为澳大利亚最优秀的私人美术馆。
要离开布罩斯班让人不合，不过阳光海岸这个美得令人难以置信的地方就在往北一小时车程的地方。阳光海岸从卡龙达海滩开始。我在孩提时代曾想象那里的沙渐：是无边无际的，而实际上它的确绵延了五十多公里。努沙岬其中的美中之胜。这里的海滩面向北方弯成弧形，于是似乎全世界的阳光都被汇聚到了这里。不过阳光海岸后面的内陆区域同样能提供众多机会的体验(请看下边)。
Five unusual things to do on the Sunshine Coast
1. Take the fells. The cool Molent-Monlville-pleton plateau is known asthe Sunshine coast hinlerland. The road is so steep that the air 1urns fromhot to cold within lusl a few kilomelres. Visit Kondalilla Falls National Park.one of lhe last remaining pods of on enormous roinforest.2. Visit Kenilworth State Forest. Getting there involves a rollerCoaster ride along the George Wyer Scenic Drive. One of the best reasons to visit is the Charlie Moreland camp ng area, deep wth n the ranforest Here,kangaroos graze between the gum trees. The only sounds you hear orethe calls of birds and the wh st e of the w nd through the treetops
3. Fly post the post. The sleepy little town of Coloundra seems on unlikelypiece to find the Queensland Air Museum; but the museum is now hometo more than 40 historical aircraft.
4. Kayak Bribie Island Kayaking the Pumicestone Passage at the island'snorhern end is one of the greatest pleasures life can offer. An astonishingrange of bird life is found here.
5. Rise high at Mooloolaba. There's a definite excitement in the air here,with a brand-new boardwalk and lookout on lhe beach, and a row ofcolourful high-rises opposite. A near-continuous strip of cool cafes andrestaurants slretches for almost a kilometre.
在阳光海岸要做的五件不寻常的事情：
1、参观瀑布。气候凉爽的梅勒尼一蒙特维勒一梅普顿高原被认为是阳光海岸的腹地。那里的道路十分陡峭，以至于气温在几公里之内就会从炎热骤变为寒冷。记得参观高达利拉瀑布国家公园，这是 一片庞大的雨林最后仅存的部分之一。
2、游览肯尼尔沃斯州属森林。去那儿要坐一段过山车，沿着乔治·瓦尔风光大道一前行。那里最具吸引力的是位于雨林深处的查理·莫尔兰宿营区。在这儿，袋鼠们在橡胶树间啃食青草，而你能听到的唯一声音便是鸟儿们的叫声和风掠过树梢的呼啸声。
3、飞游往昔。沉寂的卡朗德拉小镇看上去似乎不大可能是昆士兰航空博物馆的所在地，但这个博物馆现在却收藏着四十多架过去各个年代的飞机。
4、乘皮艇游览布莱比岛。坐着皮艇游览小岛北端的浮石走廊是人生的一大乐事。在此你还可以看到种类多得惊人的鸟。
5、在莫罗拉巴登高。在这里，崭新的海滨木板道、海滩的旖旎风光以及对岸一排五光十色的高楼犬厦让整个空气中都充满了令人兴奋的气息。还有许多很棒的咖啡晰口餐馆密密麻麻地排成行绵延了近一公里。
Just north of the Sunshine Coast, it's worth stoppingin Gympie. This is an unusual town with a main streetmore crooked than a dog's back leg, dipping up anddown like a roller coaster. The Gympie Muster, heldeach year in late August, is possibly Australia's finestcountry music festival, with a bit of blues and folkthrown in. Just outside Gympie, you'll be inspiredas the sun sets behind the Glasshouse Mountains.According to Aboriginal legend, MountTibrogargan and his wife, Mount Beerwah, are theparents of all the other Glasshouse Mountains, whichwoke up to find the entire Uhr family sitting on his bed.At other times, taps get mysteriously turned on, or you'llhear noises on the staircase in the middle of the night."
The whole of Maryborough's wharf precinct is acultural treasure. From the 1840s down to well after1900, Maryborough and Sydney were the only two portson Australia's east coast that were allowed to accept andprocess immigrants. More than 30,000 people, includingScots, Danes, Germans and Kanakas--islanders fromFiji and Vanuatu--passed through Maryborough ontheir way to a new life.
在阳光海岸北边的金皮小镇也值得驻足停留。这是个很特别的小镇，其主要街道非常弯曲，如同过山车那样忽上忽下地婉蜒盘绕。每年8月末在此举办的金皮镇集会或许是澳大利亚最棒的乡村音乐节了，含有一些蓝调和民乐的元素。而就在金皮镇之外你又会被玻璃屋山脉的日落所感动。根据土著居民的传说，提布罗卡干山和他的妻子比尔沃山是玻璃屋山脉中所有其他群山的父母，而那些山当然就是一群不太好管教的孩子。
在金皮镇的北边，翠绿葱郁的甘蔗田一直绵延到天际。在丰收的季节里，这些田地则会变成壮观的火海，因为排排甘蔗间的杂草要被烧掉好为收割机愕出地方。
在这个“甘蔗之乡”里，马里伯勒市有一些奇特的故事。其中一个故事说的是一个曾在19世纪在此居住的名为乌尔的德裔家族。糟糕的是，这个家族的人似乎还没明白他们已经死了。“这儿总有奇怪的事情发牛，”凯西安德鲁斯，这位与人共同掌管着位于富有历史盛名的码头大街的海关酒店的老板说道。“就在最近，一名日本背包客就被吓坏了，他醒来时发现整个乌尔家族的人都坐在他的床上。还有些时候，水龙头会被莫名其妙地打开，或者你会在大半夜听到楼梯上有喧闹声。”
马里伯勒市的整个码头地区就是一块文化宝地。从19世纪40年代起一直到1900年后好些年，马里伯勒和悉尼一直是澳大利亚东海岸仅有的两个可以接纳移民的港口城市。有超过三万人，其中包括苏格兰人、丹麦人、德国人和卡纳卡人
来自斐济和瓦努阿图的岛民——经由马里伯勒走上了开创新生活之路。
从马里伯勒你可以继续沿海岸向北到达班达伯格，澳火利亚最著名的朗姆酒之乡。但是我强烈推荐你调头向南去往内地的比根登镇。在那里，甘蔗田先是被种植着糖荚豌豆、澳洲坚果和荔枝树的绿野所代替，然后又是草浪翻滚的茫茫草原。这个地区会让你感到吃惊——不仪仅是因为它是澳大利亚的心脏地带，也是因为它的多样性。你可以在此找到壮观的热带雨林、酿酒的工人、一所培训牧场新手的学校和许多历史悠久的小镇。
After Gayndah, the oldest town in Queensland(1849), you come to EidsvoId, which calls itself theregion's beef capital. Today, Eidsvold's main attractionis the extraordinary museum of George Schafer: sevenbuildings that house Schafer's gem collection, worthA$ 250,000 (￠150,000), as well as a huge display of bottles,a working windmill and a railway village.
An absolute "must" in this area is a drive to themagical Cania Gorge, with cliffs in brilliant shades ofyellow, with rock pools that burble and sparkle even in dryweather, and with cabbage palms that reach towards the sky. A lookout among grass trees gives you an excellentview over the gorge and Cania Dam.
At Rockhampton, a metropolis in the heart ofcattle country, we're back on the coast. Just outside the citylies the Rydges Capricorn Resort: 9,000 hectares in areawith more than a thousand hectares of wetlands. Here youcan play 36 holes on two championship golf courses, thenride a horse through the waves on a 20-kilometre-longbeach, in addition to its regular clientele, the resort givesmore than 1,500 disabled and underprivileged guests everyyear a free or low-cost holiday in its attached MelaleucaLodge.
Just a short drive north, the Tropic of Capricornmarker shows that you've officially arrived in the tropics.The landscape changes from cleared scrub--perfect forcattle grazing, but disastrous for the ecological balance~toareas of rainforest next to fields of sugar cane. The changeof scenery keeps the view interesting on the three-hourdrive to Mackay--an attractive town witha Scottish name, but a population mainly ofItalian origin.
North of Mackay, a road takes you to ShuteHarbour by way of the backpackers' paradiseknown as Airlie Beach. A "must" while inShute Harbour is a walk along a path calledthe Whitsunday Great Walk, following thecoastline and overlooking the beautifulWhitsunday Islands.
Even better is a visit to the islandsthemselves. One of their outstanding attractionsis Whitehaven Beach, which leading travelmagazines have several times named thebest beach in the world. Whitehaven is purewhite silica next to a crystalline turquoise sea.The island is a protected reserve where nocamping is allowed, but even a few hours thereare enough to tell you what heaven is like.
在走过盖恩达这个昆士兰最古老的小镇(始建于1849年)后，你就会来到自称为该地区的牛肉之都的伊斯沃德。今天，伊斯沃德的主要景点是奇特的乔治沙菲尔博物馆，该博物馆有七幢大楼，珍藏着沙菲尔价值25万澳元(15万欧元)的宝石藏品，还展览着数量众多的瓶子、一座仍能运转的风车和一‘个铁路利‘庄。
在这个地区绝对不能错过的一个项目是驾车去往神奇的卡尼亚峡谷。那里有发出璀璨黄色光泽的悬崖峭壁，有众多即使在干旱季节也依然流水潺潺、波光粼粼的岩壁水池，还有直冲云霄的棕榈树。站在树丛中你可以尽览峡谷和卡尼亚大坝的壮丽美景。
到了罗克汉普敦这个位于牧区腹地的都市，我们就又回到了海岸边。就在这个城市之外坐落着莱吉斯摩羯宫度假村：占地9，000公顷并拥有超过l，000公顷的湿地。在这里你可以在两个高尔夫锦标赛球场玩36洞高尔夫球，然后在长达20公里的海滩骑马踏浪。除了常客外，度假村每年还为超过l，500名残疾或穷困人士在其附属的美拉乐卡乡村小屋提供免费的或低价的度假活动。
只需再往北驱车不久就能看到南回归线标志，这表明你已经正式进入了热带地区。沿路景观从被清除过的灌木丛——这对放牧有利却对生态平衡造成破坏——变成了紧挨着甘蔗地的热带雨林。这种景色的变化让你在去往麦凯的三小时车程中一路都能获得新鲜有趣的感觉。而麦凯则是一个有着苏格兰名字却主要居住着意火利人后裔的魅力小镇。
在麦凯镇北边，有一条路可以带你通过号称“背包客天堂”的艾利海滩去往舒特港。在舒特港必游的项目是沿着威特桑德步行大道漫步，你可以沿着海岸线边走边远眺美丽动人的威特桑德群岛。
要是能到群岛上面游览一下就更妙了。其中最著名的景点是降灵岛海滩，一些主要的旅行杂志曾多次将其列为世界上最棒的海滩。降灵岛有着纯白硅沙海滩，它连接着一片绿松石般晶莹透亮的海水。该岛是保护区，宿营是被禁止的，但是在那里待上几个小时就足以让你领略什么叫做天堂了。
The next stop on the mainlined is Townsville, which callsitself "the gateway to north Queensland'. A visit tothe Townsville Aquarium is highly recommended.
Finally, more than 1,700 kilometres from Brisbane,we reach the unspectacular city of Cairns. Down onthe Cairns Esplanade, there are nothing but tourists. Inthe Night Market, hundreds of potential buyers look at silver jewellery, didgeridoos, fake manacles andcrocodile-skin belts--things you won't find anywhereelse in Australia. Port Douglas, north of Cairns, isa totally different story. "The things that make PortDouglas special are what we don't have," says locallegend Billie Lloyd. "No McDonaId's, no advertisinghoardings, and no building taller than a palm tree."Lloyd, who with her son once operated the CrocodileExpress ferry across the Daintree River, is now curatorof the Old Courthouse Museum. She praises thepotential of this regi-a territory that includes PortDouglas, the colourful plateau towns of Kuranda andMareeba, nearby Lake Barrine and the World HeritageDaintree National Park. Port Douglas is also not farfrom the Great Barrier Reef and is a good starting pointto explore it.
Recently, Port Douglas has acquired a reputationas a top culinary location. The products of thenearbv Daintree rainforest areserved in 1Ttany of the town’srestaurants——fr011l fresh crocod．1eand barranlundi fish to tr。picalfruits(including jackfruit：andmangosteen)and l。cally growncoffee．"It's the COLTl bjnation ofreef and ramforest that attractspeoPle to Port Douglas，"saysDavid zlaterlch，a long一timeresldent"Nowhere else inthe world Can Vou find tesetwo attractijons in 8uch closeproxlmlity．"
Despite some concernsurrounding the。penlng ofthe road thrODgh the Damtreeregion to Cape Tribulation inthe early 1980s, the rainforest still remains relativelyuntouched. Sensitive developments such as thenew Daintree Eco-Lodge have dispelled fears ofenvironmental ruin.
To get away from the coast and see the greatrainforest, you must take the train or the Skyrailcablewvay from Cairns to Kuranda across the ruggedBarron Ranges. If you go by Skyrail, go to one ofthe shows at the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park,which tell the Dreamtime creation story. It is said ththe centre has single-handedly reawakened pride inthe Tjapukai culture and language.
Kuranda, like a recycled Woodstock in thetropics, activates all the senses at once. Outside theCoffee Company shop, a "nouveau feral" sitaristplays an otherworldly melody, while just down thestreet a didgeridoo player and a duskyvoiced bluessinger provide a contrast. At the nearby KurandaRainforestation, nature reveals some of the biggestsecrets about its flora and fauna.
Heiner and Heike from St. Augustin, Germany,can't stop praising the surroundings. "This isn'tjust another country," they say. "It must be anotherplanet!" Queensland is definitely a world of its own.
陆路的下一站是自称为“通往昆士兰北部的门户”的汤斯维尔。强烈推荐你参观一下汤斯维尔水族馆。
最后，在离布里斯班一千七百多公里的地方，我们来到了并不起眼的城市凯恩斯。凯恩斯海滨大道上除了游客还是游客。在夜市里，成百上千的顾客在挑选着银质首饰、迪杰里多管、仿制手铐和鳄鱼皮腰带——这些东西除了在澳火利亚你无处可寻。凯恩斯北边的道格拉斯港则又是另一番迥异的景象。“让道格拉斯港与众不同的是我们所没有的东西，”当地的传奇人物比利·劳埃德说，“这里没有麦当劳，没有硕大的广告牌，也没有高过棕榈树的建筑。”劳埃德曾和她的儿子经营穿越黛恩树河的鳄鱼快运渡船，如今则是老法院博物馆的馆长。她对该地区的潜力赞赏不已——这片领土包含道格拉斯港以及多彩多姿的高原小镇库兰达和马里巴，并毗邻巴伦湖和被列人世界遗产的黛恩树国家公园。道格拉斯港离大堡礁也不远，要是去那儿探险这里是个很好的出发地。
最近，道格拉斯港还赢得了美食天堂的美誉。附近的黛恩树雨林中的众多物产都成了这里的餐馆中的佳肴——从新鲜的鳄鱼肉、澳洲肺鱼到各种热带水果(包括菠萝蜜和莽吉柿)和当地产的咖啡，应有尽有。“是这里兼具珊瑚礁和热带雨林的特色将游人们吸引到了道格拉斯港，”长期定居于此的大卫泽雷特里奇解释道，“世界上再没有哪个地方能让你在如此近的距离内同时找到这两种景观。”
尽管在20世纪80年代初开拓从黛恩树地区通往复仇角的公路时引起了一些担忧，但雨林至今仍基本保持原貌。在这里的开发项目都谨小慎微，如新建的黛恩树生态旅舍，这打消了人们对环境会遭到破坏的担忧。
想要离开海岸去欣赏雨林胜景的话你就得搭乘火车或空中观光缆车从凯恩斯一路穿越崎岖不平的巴伦山脉去往库兰达。如果你是坐缆车的话，一定要去查普凯土著文化公园看-一场表演，那里会给你讲述缔造黄金时代的故事。据说单靠这个文化中心的努力就重新唤起了人们对查普凯文化和语言的自豪感。
库兰达就好似一个在热带地区复制出来的伍德斯托克，瞬时间就把你所有的感官都激发起来。存咖啡公司的店铺外，一位“新野兽派”西塔琴手演奏着超凡脱俗的旋律，沿着大街往南走，一位迪杰里多管的吹奏者和一位嗓音沙哑的蓝调歌手与此形成鲜明对比。而在不远处的库兰达热带雨林基地里，大自然向我们揭示着这里特有的动植物的神奇奥秘。
来自的德国圣奥古斯汀的海纳和海科禁不住对这番奇景赞叹不已。“这里绝不止是另一个国家，”他们说，“这简直是另一个星球!”昆士兰绝对是一片超脱尘世的天地。
Y
ou can tour Queensland theguidebook way, following thetips in Lonely Planet'sAustralia. You can do itthe backpacker way, stopping at theSunshine Coast, Airlie Beach and Cairnsand no place in between. Or you cando it the smart way, by hiring a car orcaravan in Brisbane and taking to the roadwithout a timetable, if you allow the journey to open up on its own, everymorning will offer the freshness of yet another glorious day in the SunshineState.
Whatever your choice, exploring Australia's northeastern state demandsa discerning touch. So developed has the tourism industry in Queenslandbecome, that the visitor is often confronted with attractions that are lessthan impressive. But with a little care and a relaxed attitude, you'll find realgems along the way.
Brisbane, the capital of Queensland, sits roughly at the easternmost pointof Australia, near the border with New South Wales. This city of 1.8 millionpeople is a great place to start a journey of exploration.可以像旅行指南上说的那样去游览昆士兰，按着“孤独行星”出版社的《澳大利亚》分册上的建议去做。你也可以以背包客的方式去那儿游历，在阳光海岸、艾利海滩和凯恩斯驻足游玩而不去别的地方。或者你电可以选一种惬意的方式，在布里斯班雇一辆小汽车或篷车然后不受日程约束地悠然上路。假如你没有特别的计划，随心而游的话，每个早晨都会向你呈上这个阳光之州新的一灭的绝妙和新鲜。
无论你选哪种方式，要探游这个位于澳大利亚东北部的州都需要你有足够的眼力。昆士兰的旅游业已是非常发达，所以游客常常会面对各种不乏平庸之处的纷繁诱惑，但是只要你稍加仔细并放松心态，一路上你还是会找到真正的精华所在的。
布里斯班是昆士兰的首府，大致坐落在澳大利亚的最东端，毗邻新南威尔士州的边界。从这个人口180万的城市启动你的探索之旅是个不错的选择。
The region's history goes back to 1838, whenthe first non-convict settlers arrived from Europe.The city developed into a steamy, seedy river portlike something out of a |oseph Conrad novel. Untilrecently, Brisbane had to fight a reputation forlacking class, style and culture. But now all this haschanged and the city has remade itself into whatit calls "the culture capital of Australia".
The city's cultural precinct is centred aroundthe new Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA), nowAustralia's largest contemporary art gallery, whichopened in early 2007. Next to GOMA, the newState Library is worth a visit as well. A ten-minutewalk takes you to the Queensland Museum andSciencentre. There you'll also find the DandiiriMaiwar Aboriginal and Tortes Strait Islander CulturesCentre, a fine introduction to Australia's two nativecultural groups through their art, photographs,sculpture and causic.
August and September are the city's festivalseason, with the Brisbane International FilmFestival, the Riverfestival and the Brisbane Writers'Festival all taking place within the space of a fewweeks.
The trendiest part of Brisbane is FortitudeValley, where the James Street Markets definerelaxed dining. Tables overlook the street,and large windows give you the feeling thatyou're sitting outdoors even when you'renot. After lunch, explore the area's many artgalleries and boutiques. Philip Bacon Galleries, with works by leading Australian artists, suchas Albert Namatjira, Margaret O]]ey and SidneyNo]an, is often nominated as Australia's finestprivately owned art gallery.
It's hard to leave Brisbane, but the Sunshine Coast, an areaof unbelievable beauty, lies only an hour's drive north. Itstarts at Caloundra Beach. As a child I imagined that the sandsthere stretched forever; in fact, they do stretch more than 50kilometres. Noosa Heads is the finest part. Here the beachcurves around to face north, so that all fire world's sunshineseems to be focused on this one point. But the inland areabehind the Sunshine Coast aIso offers opportunities forunusual activities (see box on next page).
这个地区的历史可以追溯到1838年，当时首批非罪犯的定居者从欧洲来到这里。这个城市后来发展成了一个蒸汽弥漫、肮脏破旧的河港，就像约瑟夫，康拉德的小说里描述的那样。直到最近，布里斯班还在设法摆脱它没有上流阶层、缺乏独特风格和文化的名声。但现在这一切都变了，这个城市已经把自己重新塑造成了“澳大利亚的文化之都一。
昆士兰的文化核心区是以新现代艺术馆(GOMA)为中心的区域。该馆是澳大利亚目前最大的当代艺术展馆，于2007年初开放。在现代艺术馆旁边的新州立图书馆也是值得一去的。再走上十分钟你就会看到昆士兰博物馆和科技中心。在那儿你还可以参观邓迪利-梅沃土著民和托雷斯海峡岛民文化中心，这里通过展示美术、摄影、雕塑和音乐作品对澳大利亚这两个本土文化族群进行了详尽精彩的介绍。
八、九两个月是这个城市的节庆季节。在为期几周的时间里有布里斯班国际电影节、河流节及布里斯班作家节相继举行。
布里斯班最时尚的区域当数佛特谷，那里的詹姆斯火街市场阐释了何为悠闲进餐。坐在餐桌旁可以俯瞰火街，硕大的窗户让你虽身在室内却感觉犹如安坐室外。午餐后，你可以逛逛该地区众多的美术馆和精品店。菲利普·培根美术馆收藏了澳火利亚顶尖艺术家们的作品，如阿尔伯特·纳马吉拉、玛格丽特·欧莱和西德尼·诺兰。该馆经常被提名为澳大利亚最优秀的私人美术馆。
要离开布罩斯班让人不合，不过阳光海岸这个美得令人难以置信的地方就在往北一小时车程的地方。阳光海岸从卡龙达海滩开始。我在孩提时代曾想象那里的沙渐：是无边无际的，而实际上它的确绵延了五十多公里。努沙岬其中的美中之胜。这里的海滩面向北方弯成弧形，于是似乎全世界的阳光都被汇聚到了这里。不过阳光海岸后面的内陆区域同样能提供众多机会的体验(请看下边)。
Five unusual things to do on the Sunshine Coast
1. Take the fells. The cool Molent-Monlville-pleton plateau is known asthe Sunshine coast hinlerland. The road is so steep that the air 1urns fromhot to cold within lusl a few kilomelres. Visit Kondalilla Falls National Park.one of lhe last remaining pods of on enormous roinforest.2. Visit Kenilworth State Forest. Getting there involves a rollerCoaster ride along the George Wyer Scenic Drive. One of the best reasons to visit is the Charlie Moreland camp ng area, deep wth n the ranforest Here,kangaroos graze between the gum trees. The only sounds you hear orethe calls of birds and the wh st e of the w nd through the treetops
3. Fly post the post. The sleepy little town of Coloundra seems on unlikelypiece to find the Queensland Air Museum; but the museum is now hometo more than 40 historical aircraft.
4. Kayak Bribie Island Kayaking the Pumicestone Passage at the island'snorhern end is one of the greatest pleasures life can offer. An astonishingrange of bird life is found here.
5. Rise high at Mooloolaba. There's a definite excitement in the air here,with a brand-new boardwalk and lookout on lhe beach, and a row ofcolourful high-rises opposite. A near-continuous strip of cool cafes andrestaurants slretches for almost a kilometre.
在阳光海岸要做的五件不寻常的事情：
1、参观瀑布。气候凉爽的梅勒尼一蒙特维勒一梅普顿高原被认为是阳光海岸的腹地。那里的道路十分陡峭，以至于气温在几公里之内就会从炎热骤变为寒冷。记得参观高达利拉瀑布国家公园，这是 一片庞大的雨林最后仅存的部分之一。
2、游览肯尼尔沃斯州属森林。去那儿要坐一段过山车，沿着乔治·瓦尔风光大道一前行。那里最具吸引力的是位于雨林深处的查理·莫尔兰宿营区。在这儿，袋鼠们在橡胶树间啃食青草，而你能听到的唯一声音便是鸟儿们的叫声和风掠过树梢的呼啸声。
3、飞游往昔。沉寂的卡朗德拉小镇看上去似乎不大可能是昆士兰航空博物馆的所在地，但这个博物馆现在却收藏着四十多架过去各个年代的飞机。
4、乘皮艇游览布莱比岛。坐着皮艇游览小岛北端的浮石走廊是人生的一大乐事。在此你还可以看到种类多得惊人的鸟。
5、在莫罗拉巴登高。在这里，崭新的海滨木板道、海滩的旖旎风光以及对岸一排五光十色的高楼犬厦让整个空气中都充满了令人兴奋的气息。还有许多很棒的咖啡晰口餐馆密密麻麻地排成行绵延了近一公里。
Just north of the Sunshine Coast, it's worth stoppingin Gympie. This is an unusual town with a main streetmore crooked than a dog's back leg, dipping up anddown like a roller coaster. The Gympie Muster, heldeach year in late August, is possibly Australia's finestcountry music festival, with a bit of blues and folkthrown in. Just outside Gympie, you'll be inspiredas the sun sets behind the Glasshouse Mountains.According to Aboriginal legend, MountTibrogargan and his wife, Mount Beerwah, are theparents of all the other Glasshouse Mountains, whichwoke up to find the entire Uhr family sitting on his bed.At other times, taps get mysteriously turned on, or you'llhear noises on the staircase in the middle of the night."
The whole of Maryborough's wharf precinct is acultural treasure. From the 1840s down to well after1900, Maryborough and Sydney were the only two portson Australia's east coast that were allowed to accept andprocess immigrants. More than 30,000 people, includingScots, Danes, Germans and Kanakas--islanders fromFiji and Vanuatu--passed through Maryborough ontheir way to a new life.
在阳光海岸北边的金皮小镇也值得驻足停留。这是个很特别的小镇，其主要街道非常弯曲，如同过山车那样忽上忽下地婉蜒盘绕。每年8月末在此举办的金皮镇集会或许是澳大利亚最棒的乡村音乐节了，含有一些蓝调和民乐的元素。而就在金皮镇之外你又会被玻璃屋山脉的日落所感动。根据土著居民的传说，提布罗卡干山和他的妻子比尔沃山是玻璃屋山脉中所有其他群山的父母，而那些山当然就是一群不太好管教的孩子。
在金皮镇的北边，翠绿葱郁的甘蔗田一直绵延到天际。在丰收的季节里，这些田地则会变成壮观的火海，因为排排甘蔗间的杂草要被烧掉好为收割机愕出地方。
在这个“甘蔗之乡”里，马里伯勒市有一些奇特的故事。其中一个故事说的是一个曾在19世纪在此居住的名为乌尔的德裔家族。糟糕的是，这个家族的人似乎还没明白他们已经死了。“这儿总有奇怪的事情发牛，”凯西安德鲁斯，这位与人共同掌管着位于富有历史盛名的码头大街的海关酒店的老板说道。“就在最近，一名日本背包客就被吓坏了，他醒来时发现整个乌尔家族的人都坐在他的床上。还有些时候，水龙头会被莫名其妙地打开，或者你会在大半夜听到楼梯上有喧闹声。”
马里伯勒市的整个码头地区就是一块文化宝地。从19世纪40年代起一直到1900年后好些年，马里伯勒和悉尼一直是澳大利亚东海岸仅有的两个可以接纳移民的港口城市。有超过三万人，其中包括苏格兰人、丹麦人、德国人和卡纳卡人
来自斐济和瓦努阿图的岛民——经由马里伯勒走上了开创新生活之路。
从马里伯勒你可以继续沿海岸向北到达班达伯格，澳火利亚最著名的朗姆酒之乡。但是我强烈推荐你调头向南去往内地的比根登镇。在那里，甘蔗田先是被种植着糖荚豌豆、澳洲坚果和荔枝树的绿野所代替，然后又是草浪翻滚的茫茫草原。这个地区会让你感到吃惊——不仪仅是因为它是澳大利亚的心脏地带，也是因为它的多样性。你可以在此找到壮观的热带雨林、酿酒的工人、一所培训牧场新手的学校和许多历史悠久的小镇。
After Gayndah, the oldest town in Queensland(1849), you come to EidsvoId, which calls itself theregion's beef capital. Today, Eidsvold's main attractionis the extraordinary museum of George Schafer: sevenbuildings that house Schafer's gem collection, worthA$ 250,000 (￠150,000), as well as a huge display of bottles,a working windmill and a railway village.
An absolute "must" in this area is a drive to themagical Cania Gorge, with cliffs in brilliant shades ofyellow, with rock pools that burble and sparkle even in dryweather, and with cabbage palms that reach towards the sky. A lookout among grass trees gives you an excellentview over the gorge and Cania Dam.
At Rockhampton, a metropolis in the heart ofcattle country, we're back on the coast. Just outside the citylies the Rydges Capricorn Resort: 9,000 hectares in areawith more than a thousand hectares of wetlands. Here youcan play 36 holes on two championship golf courses, thenride a horse through the waves on a 20-kilometre-longbeach, in addition to its regular clientele, the resort givesmore than 1,500 disabled and underprivileged guests everyyear a free or low-cost holiday in its attached MelaleucaLodge.
Just a short drive north, the Tropic of Capricornmarker shows that you've officially arrived in the tropics.The landscape changes from cleared scrub--perfect forcattle grazing, but disastrous for the ecological balance~toareas of rainforest next to fields of sugar cane. The changeof scenery keeps the view interesting on the three-hourdrive to Mackay--an attractive town witha Scottish name, but a population mainly ofItalian origin.
North of Mackay, a road takes you to ShuteHarbour by way of the backpackers' paradiseknown as Airlie Beach. A "must" while inShute Harbour is a walk along a path calledthe Whitsunday Great Walk, following thecoastline and overlooking the beautifulWhitsunday Islands.
Even better is a visit to the islandsthemselves. One of their outstanding attractionsis Whitehaven Beach, which leading travelmagazines have several times named thebest beach in the world. Whitehaven is purewhite silica next to a crystalline turquoise sea.The island is a protected reserve where nocamping is allowed, but even a few hours thereare enough to tell you what heaven is like.
在走过盖恩达这个昆士兰最古老的小镇(始建于1849年)后，你就会来到自称为该地区的牛肉之都的伊斯沃德。今天，伊斯沃德的主要景点是奇特的乔治沙菲尔博物馆，该博物馆有七幢大楼，珍藏着沙菲尔价值25万澳元(15万欧元)的宝石藏品，还展览着数量众多的瓶子、一座仍能运转的风车和一‘个铁路利‘庄。
在这个地区绝对不能错过的一个项目是驾车去往神奇的卡尼亚峡谷。那里有发出璀璨黄色光泽的悬崖峭壁，有众多即使在干旱季节也依然流水潺潺、波光粼粼的岩壁水池，还有直冲云霄的棕榈树。站在树丛中你可以尽览峡谷和卡尼亚大坝的壮丽美景。
到了罗克汉普敦这个位于牧区腹地的都市，我们就又回到了海岸边。就在这个城市之外坐落着莱吉斯摩羯宫度假村：占地9，000公顷并拥有超过l，000公顷的湿地。在这里你可以在两个高尔夫锦标赛球场玩36洞高尔夫球，然后在长达20公里的海滩骑马踏浪。除了常客外，度假村每年还为超过l，500名残疾或穷困人士在其附属的美拉乐卡乡村小屋提供免费的或低价的度假活动。
只需再往北驱车不久就能看到南回归线标志，这表明你已经正式进入了热带地区。沿路景观从被清除过的灌木丛——这对放牧有利却对生态平衡造成破坏——变成了紧挨着甘蔗地的热带雨林。这种景色的变化让你在去往麦凯的三小时车程中一路都能获得新鲜有趣的感觉。而麦凯则是一个有着苏格兰名字却主要居住着意火利人后裔的魅力小镇。
在麦凯镇北边，有一条路可以带你通过号称“背包客天堂”的艾利海滩去往舒特港。在舒特港必游的项目是沿着威特桑德步行大道漫步，你可以沿着海岸线边走边远眺美丽动人的威特桑德群岛。
要是能到群岛上面游览一下就更妙了。其中最著名的景点是降灵岛海滩，一些主要的旅行杂志曾多次将其列为世界上最棒的海滩。降灵岛有着纯白硅沙海滩，它连接着一片绿松石般晶莹透亮的海水。该岛是保护区，宿营是被禁止的，但是在那里待上几个小时就足以让你领略什么叫做天堂了。
The next stop on the mainlined is Townsville, which callsitself "the gateway to north Queensland'. A visit tothe Townsville Aquarium is highly recommended.
Finally, more than 1,700 kilometres from Brisbane,we reach the unspectacular city of Cairns. Down onthe Cairns Esplanade, there are nothing but tourists. Inthe Night Market, hundreds of potential buyers look at silver jewellery, didgeridoos, fake manacles andcrocodile-skin belts--things you won't find anywhereelse in Australia. Port Douglas, north of Cairns, isa totally different story. "The things that make PortDouglas special are what we don't have," says locallegend Billie Lloyd. "No McDonaId's, no advertisinghoardings, and no building taller than a palm tree."Lloyd, who with her son once operated the CrocodileExpress ferry across the Daintree River, is now curatorof the Old Courthouse Museum. She praises thepotential of this regi-a territory that includes PortDouglas, the colourful plateau towns of Kuranda andMareeba, nearby Lake Barrine and the World HeritageDaintree National Park. Port Douglas is also not farfrom the Great Barrier Reef and is a good starting pointto explore it.
Recently, Port Douglas has acquired a reputationas a top culinary location. The products of thenearbv Daintree rainforest areserved in 1Ttany of the town’srestaurants——fr011l fresh crocod．1eand barranlundi fish to tr。picalfruits(including jackfruit：andmangosteen)and l。cally growncoffee．"It's the COLTl bjnation ofreef and ramforest that attractspeoPle to Port Douglas，"saysDavid zlaterlch，a long一timeresldent"Nowhere else inthe world Can Vou find tesetwo attractijons in 8uch closeproxlmlity．"
Despite some concernsurrounding the。penlng ofthe road thrODgh the Damtreeregion to Cape Tribulation inthe early 1980s, the rainforest still remains relativelyuntouched. Sensitive developments such as thenew Daintree Eco-Lodge have dispelled fears ofenvironmental ruin.
To get away from the coast and see the greatrainforest, you must take the train or the Skyrailcablewvay from Cairns to Kuranda across the ruggedBarron Ranges. If you go by Skyrail, go to one ofthe shows at the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park,which tell the Dreamtime creation story. It is said ththe centre has single-handedly reawakened pride inthe Tjapukai culture and language.
Kuranda, like a recycled Woodstock in thetropics, activates all the senses at once. Outside theCoffee Company shop, a "nouveau feral" sitaristplays an otherworldly melody, while just down thestreet a didgeridoo player and a duskyvoiced bluessinger provide a contrast. At the nearby KurandaRainforestation, nature reveals some of the biggestsecrets about its flora and fauna.
Heiner and Heike from St. Augustin, Germany,can't stop praising the surroundings. "This isn'tjust another country," they say. "It must be anotherplanet!" Queensland is definitely a world of its own.
陆路的下一站是自称为“通往昆士兰北部的门户”的汤斯维尔。强烈推荐你参观一下汤斯维尔水族馆。
最后，在离布里斯班一千七百多公里的地方，我们来到了并不起眼的城市凯恩斯。凯恩斯海滨大道上除了游客还是游客。在夜市里，成百上千的顾客在挑选着银质首饰、迪杰里多管、仿制手铐和鳄鱼皮腰带——这些东西除了在澳火利亚你无处可寻。凯恩斯北边的道格拉斯港则又是另一番迥异的景象。“让道格拉斯港与众不同的是我们所没有的东西，”当地的传奇人物比利·劳埃德说，“这里没有麦当劳，没有硕大的广告牌，也没有高过棕榈树的建筑。”劳埃德曾和她的儿子经营穿越黛恩树河的鳄鱼快运渡船，如今则是老法院博物馆的馆长。她对该地区的潜力赞赏不已——这片领土包含道格拉斯港以及多彩多姿的高原小镇库兰达和马里巴，并毗邻巴伦湖和被列人世界遗产的黛恩树国家公园。道格拉斯港离大堡礁也不远，要是去那儿探险这里是个很好的出发地。
最近，道格拉斯港还赢得了美食天堂的美誉。附近的黛恩树雨林中的众多物产都成了这里的餐馆中的佳肴——从新鲜的鳄鱼肉、澳洲肺鱼到各种热带水果(包括菠萝蜜和莽吉柿)和当地产的咖啡，应有尽有。“是这里兼具珊瑚礁和热带雨林的特色将游人们吸引到了道格拉斯港，”长期定居于此的大卫泽雷特里奇解释道，“世界上再没有哪个地方能让你在如此近的距离内同时找到这两种景观。”
尽管在20世纪80年代初开拓从黛恩树地区通往复仇角的公路时引起了一些担忧，但雨林至今仍基本保持原貌。在这里的开发项目都谨小慎微，如新建的黛恩树生态旅舍，这打消了人们对环境会遭到破坏的担忧。
想要离开海岸去欣赏雨林胜景的话你就得搭乘火车或空中观光缆车从凯恩斯一路穿越崎岖不平的巴伦山脉去往库兰达。如果你是坐缆车的话，一定要去查普凯土著文化公园看-一场表演，那里会给你讲述缔造黄金时代的故事。据说单靠这个文化中心的努力就重新唤起了人们对查普凯文化和语言的自豪感。
库兰达就好似一个在热带地区复制出来的伍德斯托克，瞬时间就把你所有的感官都激发起来。存咖啡公司的店铺外，一位“新野兽派”西塔琴手演奏着超凡脱俗的旋律，沿着大街往南走，一位迪杰里多管的吹奏者和一位嗓音沙哑的蓝调歌手与此形成鲜明对比。而在不远处的库兰达热带雨林基地里，大自然向我们揭示着这里特有的动植物的神奇奥秘。
来自的德国圣奥古斯汀的海纳和海科禁不住对这番奇景赞叹不已。“这里绝不止是另一个国家，”他们说，“这简直是另一个星球!”昆士兰绝对是一片超脱尘世的天地。