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桐柏,千里淮河的源头,一块古老、神秘而又充满勃勃生机的土地,它位于河南、湖北两省交界的桐柏山北麓。
4月,正是桐柏山山岭岭杜鹃花盛开的季节,我应邀参加了由中国摄影家协会组织的“走进淮河之源,寻访桐柏英雄”的大型摄影采风活动,和来自新华社、《人民日报》《工人日报》《中国化工报》《中国环境报》《中国摄影报》等新闻媒体的20余名摄影记者一道,走进了淮河源头的桐柏。
我们的采风活动由攀登太白顶、探溯淮河源开始。太白顶为桐柏山主峰,位于桐柏县城城西15公里的淮源镇,它雄峙凌极,横卧天际,海拔为1140米。我们从山下拾级而上,上行不到50米早已大汗淋漓,气喘嘘嘘,但同行的伙伴们看到山之秀、石之奇、树之老、水之碧,仍然一步一声赞叹,兴味盎然。
我们用了将近一个小时的时间登上了太白山顶。站立山巅,环顾四方,只见太白山顶东侧有一大淮井,这便是千里淮河之源头。井径2米左右,深约2米,井底那三眼涌泉时刻水花翻滚,透过石壁潜流而下,注入了山谷,并义无反顾地一泻千里直奔东海。
淮河源有着很深的文化积淀。“禹导淮,自桐柏”(《尚书·禹贡》);“盘古开天,血为淮渎”(《五运历年记》)。据有关专家论证,桐柏山是举世闻名的盘古神话发源地。盘古文化在桐柏山源远流长,这里有盘古山、盘古庙、盘古洞、盘古斧、盘古墓等天下奇观。公元前221年秦始皇诏令祭淮,那时便有了桐柏县淮源镇现今的淮祠。“祭淮”是历代帝王为黎庶祈福的一种形式。朱元璋、康熙、雍正等皇帝在此御书匾额,祈求国泰民安、五谷丰登;无数墨客贤达到这里探源览胜,也留下千古绝唱。“一定要把淮河的事情办好”,毛泽东巨手一挥,修淮工程便由此拉开了序幕。自古以来,淮河源儿女围绕识淮、祭淮、治淮,谱写了一部厚重的淮河源文化。
淮源镇位于桐柏县城西14公里,有千里淮河第一镇之美称。在淮源镇的淮汉分水岭上,一个记载着神话传说的人文遗迹就镶嵌在这里:它就是闻名遐迩的淮汉鸳鸯池。鸳鸯池为三个自然池塘,东边的两个池塘清澈见底,西边的一个池塘却浑浊异常。相传,在很早以前,桐柏有东西两个部落。有一年天久旱不雨,东部落首领桐花姑娘便约西部落首领柏子一同到山上去寻找水源。他俩找到了水,但因其劳累过度却倒在了山下。柏子之妻寻夫至此,见状误认为柏子和桐花有染,顿时醋性大发,大吵大闹,最后找到盘古奶告状评理。盘古奶就把他们三人还原成水,以水清浊来判断是非。柏子和桐花变成了清澈见底的池塘,而柏子之妻的池塘却浑浊异常,如此一来,是非对错便一目了然。后来大禹治淮时来到这里,听了这个故事,感慨地说:“清者自清,浊者自浊,不宜合流!”于是他便引导清池东流成为淮河,疏通浊池西流注入汉水。“鸳鸯池”的故事从此世代相传,直到现在淮河两岸不少人在爱情方面遭到误解时,总爱到鸳鸯池边以古池为镜,寻求心理的慰藉和解脱。从此,淮汉鸳鸯池成了桐柏的一大名胜景观。
淮河源头,也有深厚的宗教文化。这里清代以前重道,王禅曾在此悟道,孙膑曾在此课徒,张良曾在此辟谷。淮渎庙对面金台山上的那座“金台道馆”,为南北朝时代四大道观之首,水帘洞被道家定为“天下第四十一福地”。到了清乾隆四十九年以后,桐柏山佛教昌盛起来,自成白云山系,成为饮誉海内外的佛教圣地。桐柏山主峰太白顶上的云台禅寺,水帘洞的水帘寺,桃花洞的普化寺,淮源镇的清泉寺等,僧民多达600余人,暮鼓晨钟,香火不绝,构成了桐柏山氤氲的宗教文化。
一日下午,我们一行来到水帘寺观光。看见金碧辉煌的大雄宝殿内,有尊端坐在殿宇中央莲花圣坛上的释迦牟尼说法佛像。这尊玉佛是由早年在水帘寺出家的香港如修法师出资镌琢而成的。佛祖通体为上乘的缅甸翠玉,冰清玉洁,不含一纤瑕疵。释迦牟尼佛祖慈祥的面容,明净如秋水般的慧眼,丰满端庄的身态,灵巧纤细的手指和安详静谧的坐姿,好像随时都会从佛坛上走下来普渡我们这些芸芸众生。
苏区文化也是淮源文化的重要组成部分。桐柏山是一块红色的土地,是英雄辈出的地方。早在1925年夏桐柏山就插上了红旗,建立了党组织。豫南工农革命军、红九军、红二十五军、红二十八军、新四军五师以及三五九旅南下支队等,均在这里辗转战斗过。1927年杨靖宇在回龙乡徐老庄组建的“回龙农民协会”旧址、1936年鄂豫边省委书记张星江领导桐柏山红军游击队孤峰山庙会夺枪旧址、1938年徐海东在回龙养伤旧地、1945年新四军五师师长李先念、河南军区司令员王树声在叶家大庄住处旧址,均保存得相当完好。如今,这些革命旧址都已成为缅怀革命先烈、弘扬革命传统的教育基地。
由小说《桐柏英雄》改编成的电影《小花》已为广大观众所熟悉,桐柏山悠久灿烂的历史文化和神奇独特的自然景观,也为中外游人所喜爱。桐柏,这颗镶嵌在中原旅游风景圈中的明珠,如今更加放出璀璨的光芒。
A Spring Journey to Tongbai Mountain
Story and Photographs by Zhou Jinping
The Tongbai Mountain stretches between Henan and Anhui Provinces. The vast mountainous area is not only full of ancient legends and natural wonders but also is where the Huai River originates.
In the past April, I joined a group of photojournalists in a program to photograph the natural beauty and heroes of the revolutionary era in the Tongbai Mountain. The program was jointly organized by the country's leading news media.
We started our journey by scaling the highest peak of the mountain. It is the Supreme White Peak, 15 kilometers west of the Tongbai County seat. At 1,140 meters above sea level, the peak towers magnificently. Taking the zigzagging stone steps, we were amazed by sceneries on the way: magnificent peaks, unique-shaped rocks, age-old trees, and clear streams. Near the eastern side of the mountain top is a 2-meter-deep well in about 2 meters in diameter. Three springs surge bubbling in the well. The water seeps through the cliff down the valley, starting its long journey to the East China Sea.
Experts say that the Chinese genesis originated in the mountain area. The legend has it that Pangu, the very first Chinese deity, created the universe by separating the sky and the earth at the very beginning. There are various historical sites in memory of the giant deity. In 221 BC, the first emperor of the Qin Dynasty (221-206B.C.) issued a decree for holding a grand ceremony in the name of the Huai River. Emperors in the following dynasties continued this practice to pray happiness for the people.
The riverhead area is steeped in religious heritages. Before the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), Taoism dominated the area. Sites of historical interests there remind visitors of busy Taoist activities there over centuries. In the 49th year during the reign of the Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, Buddhism began to flourish there. Taoism faded. A few Buddhist temples attracted an aggregate of more than 600 monks.
We visited the Water Curtain Temple in one afternoon. The stately Grand Hall had a giant jade Buddha statue, donated by a monk from Hong Kong. The green jade was imported from Burma.
The mountain area was once the revolutionary base area in the first half of the 20th century. The Communist Red Army started military activities in the summer 1925 and local Communist party chapters worked to rally forces. In the history of the Chinese Communist Revolution, troopers stayed in many places in the deep mountains. Today, headquarters of different Communist armies over the different periods serve a witness to the heroic past.
In the early 1980s, a feature movie adapted from a novel that portrayed revolutionary heroes in the war periods was released nationwide. The movie made the Tongbai Mountain well known in the country. Today, the mountain attracts a great number of tourists both from home and overseas with its unique sights of natural beauty and historical interests.
(Translated by David)
4月,正是桐柏山山岭岭杜鹃花盛开的季节,我应邀参加了由中国摄影家协会组织的“走进淮河之源,寻访桐柏英雄”的大型摄影采风活动,和来自新华社、《人民日报》《工人日报》《中国化工报》《中国环境报》《中国摄影报》等新闻媒体的20余名摄影记者一道,走进了淮河源头的桐柏。
我们的采风活动由攀登太白顶、探溯淮河源开始。太白顶为桐柏山主峰,位于桐柏县城城西15公里的淮源镇,它雄峙凌极,横卧天际,海拔为1140米。我们从山下拾级而上,上行不到50米早已大汗淋漓,气喘嘘嘘,但同行的伙伴们看到山之秀、石之奇、树之老、水之碧,仍然一步一声赞叹,兴味盎然。
我们用了将近一个小时的时间登上了太白山顶。站立山巅,环顾四方,只见太白山顶东侧有一大淮井,这便是千里淮河之源头。井径2米左右,深约2米,井底那三眼涌泉时刻水花翻滚,透过石壁潜流而下,注入了山谷,并义无反顾地一泻千里直奔东海。
淮河源有着很深的文化积淀。“禹导淮,自桐柏”(《尚书·禹贡》);“盘古开天,血为淮渎”(《五运历年记》)。据有关专家论证,桐柏山是举世闻名的盘古神话发源地。盘古文化在桐柏山源远流长,这里有盘古山、盘古庙、盘古洞、盘古斧、盘古墓等天下奇观。公元前221年秦始皇诏令祭淮,那时便有了桐柏县淮源镇现今的淮祠。“祭淮”是历代帝王为黎庶祈福的一种形式。朱元璋、康熙、雍正等皇帝在此御书匾额,祈求国泰民安、五谷丰登;无数墨客贤达到这里探源览胜,也留下千古绝唱。“一定要把淮河的事情办好”,毛泽东巨手一挥,修淮工程便由此拉开了序幕。自古以来,淮河源儿女围绕识淮、祭淮、治淮,谱写了一部厚重的淮河源文化。
淮源镇位于桐柏县城西14公里,有千里淮河第一镇之美称。在淮源镇的淮汉分水岭上,一个记载着神话传说的人文遗迹就镶嵌在这里:它就是闻名遐迩的淮汉鸳鸯池。鸳鸯池为三个自然池塘,东边的两个池塘清澈见底,西边的一个池塘却浑浊异常。相传,在很早以前,桐柏有东西两个部落。有一年天久旱不雨,东部落首领桐花姑娘便约西部落首领柏子一同到山上去寻找水源。他俩找到了水,但因其劳累过度却倒在了山下。柏子之妻寻夫至此,见状误认为柏子和桐花有染,顿时醋性大发,大吵大闹,最后找到盘古奶告状评理。盘古奶就把他们三人还原成水,以水清浊来判断是非。柏子和桐花变成了清澈见底的池塘,而柏子之妻的池塘却浑浊异常,如此一来,是非对错便一目了然。后来大禹治淮时来到这里,听了这个故事,感慨地说:“清者自清,浊者自浊,不宜合流!”于是他便引导清池东流成为淮河,疏通浊池西流注入汉水。“鸳鸯池”的故事从此世代相传,直到现在淮河两岸不少人在爱情方面遭到误解时,总爱到鸳鸯池边以古池为镜,寻求心理的慰藉和解脱。从此,淮汉鸳鸯池成了桐柏的一大名胜景观。
淮河源头,也有深厚的宗教文化。这里清代以前重道,王禅曾在此悟道,孙膑曾在此课徒,张良曾在此辟谷。淮渎庙对面金台山上的那座“金台道馆”,为南北朝时代四大道观之首,水帘洞被道家定为“天下第四十一福地”。到了清乾隆四十九年以后,桐柏山佛教昌盛起来,自成白云山系,成为饮誉海内外的佛教圣地。桐柏山主峰太白顶上的云台禅寺,水帘洞的水帘寺,桃花洞的普化寺,淮源镇的清泉寺等,僧民多达600余人,暮鼓晨钟,香火不绝,构成了桐柏山氤氲的宗教文化。
一日下午,我们一行来到水帘寺观光。看见金碧辉煌的大雄宝殿内,有尊端坐在殿宇中央莲花圣坛上的释迦牟尼说法佛像。这尊玉佛是由早年在水帘寺出家的香港如修法师出资镌琢而成的。佛祖通体为上乘的缅甸翠玉,冰清玉洁,不含一纤瑕疵。释迦牟尼佛祖慈祥的面容,明净如秋水般的慧眼,丰满端庄的身态,灵巧纤细的手指和安详静谧的坐姿,好像随时都会从佛坛上走下来普渡我们这些芸芸众生。
苏区文化也是淮源文化的重要组成部分。桐柏山是一块红色的土地,是英雄辈出的地方。早在1925年夏桐柏山就插上了红旗,建立了党组织。豫南工农革命军、红九军、红二十五军、红二十八军、新四军五师以及三五九旅南下支队等,均在这里辗转战斗过。1927年杨靖宇在回龙乡徐老庄组建的“回龙农民协会”旧址、1936年鄂豫边省委书记张星江领导桐柏山红军游击队孤峰山庙会夺枪旧址、1938年徐海东在回龙养伤旧地、1945年新四军五师师长李先念、河南军区司令员王树声在叶家大庄住处旧址,均保存得相当完好。如今,这些革命旧址都已成为缅怀革命先烈、弘扬革命传统的教育基地。
由小说《桐柏英雄》改编成的电影《小花》已为广大观众所熟悉,桐柏山悠久灿烂的历史文化和神奇独特的自然景观,也为中外游人所喜爱。桐柏,这颗镶嵌在中原旅游风景圈中的明珠,如今更加放出璀璨的光芒。
A Spring Journey to Tongbai Mountain
Story and Photographs by Zhou Jinping
The Tongbai Mountain stretches between Henan and Anhui Provinces. The vast mountainous area is not only full of ancient legends and natural wonders but also is where the Huai River originates.
In the past April, I joined a group of photojournalists in a program to photograph the natural beauty and heroes of the revolutionary era in the Tongbai Mountain. The program was jointly organized by the country's leading news media.
We started our journey by scaling the highest peak of the mountain. It is the Supreme White Peak, 15 kilometers west of the Tongbai County seat. At 1,140 meters above sea level, the peak towers magnificently. Taking the zigzagging stone steps, we were amazed by sceneries on the way: magnificent peaks, unique-shaped rocks, age-old trees, and clear streams. Near the eastern side of the mountain top is a 2-meter-deep well in about 2 meters in diameter. Three springs surge bubbling in the well. The water seeps through the cliff down the valley, starting its long journey to the East China Sea.
Experts say that the Chinese genesis originated in the mountain area. The legend has it that Pangu, the very first Chinese deity, created the universe by separating the sky and the earth at the very beginning. There are various historical sites in memory of the giant deity. In 221 BC, the first emperor of the Qin Dynasty (221-206B.C.) issued a decree for holding a grand ceremony in the name of the Huai River. Emperors in the following dynasties continued this practice to pray happiness for the people.
The riverhead area is steeped in religious heritages. Before the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), Taoism dominated the area. Sites of historical interests there remind visitors of busy Taoist activities there over centuries. In the 49th year during the reign of the Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, Buddhism began to flourish there. Taoism faded. A few Buddhist temples attracted an aggregate of more than 600 monks.
We visited the Water Curtain Temple in one afternoon. The stately Grand Hall had a giant jade Buddha statue, donated by a monk from Hong Kong. The green jade was imported from Burma.
The mountain area was once the revolutionary base area in the first half of the 20th century. The Communist Red Army started military activities in the summer 1925 and local Communist party chapters worked to rally forces. In the history of the Chinese Communist Revolution, troopers stayed in many places in the deep mountains. Today, headquarters of different Communist armies over the different periods serve a witness to the heroic past.
In the early 1980s, a feature movie adapted from a novel that portrayed revolutionary heroes in the war periods was released nationwide. The movie made the Tongbai Mountain well known in the country. Today, the mountain attracts a great number of tourists both from home and overseas with its unique sights of natural beauty and historical interests.
(Translated by David)